tommytopsoil

I may be wrong, BUT... I think your machine is in fact an Italian built IMEF MX14-1, re-badged as an SMC which was the tracked excavator arm of Sandhurst Equip who bought the Smalley brand back in the 90's. As mentioned, generally on this size of excavator if you strip the cab out you will find a panel bolted in that you can remove and struggle like hell through for access to the engine. I wouldn't be surprised if the starter motor and various other service items were also accessed through here. If you are struggling, the best thing you can probably do is ring Sandhurst Equipment in Kent and tell them the craic. Good luck!

Smart work as ever Eddie

Hi, just wondered if you had any luck with this?

Well said... Horse meat – the hardest thing to digest is that it’s your fault. The Making Progress Blues

I must say, all credit to Steve for his dedication. There are other forums where the moderator has all but forgotten the site even exists... Well done and thanks - from many I'm sure.

Can I have their number please?

Sound advice that, like.

Was that you on Natland Rd Hodge?

2.7 Terrano II, owned from new and furnished with 250,000 miles. Dragged everything round from day one, overloaded, abused, hammered... Very capable off road too. It has even been serviced occasionally. I simply cannot fault this vehicle. A shame they are plated low - it is far more inspiring and happier to tow with than the defender or disco and feels much more stable. She has stood me at a water pump, a battery, a radiator (popped early on, fine since) and the usual anti-roll bushes etc etc. Gearboxes are a service item when you tow 4-5 tonnes round...They last longer with oil in, however. I would quite happily have Terrano's forever. Not had much to do with the 3.0 common rail, but do know of a lad who chipped one to 230bhp... Powerwash the chassis/underneath at either end of the year and give a liberal coating of oil/grease. Do this spring and autumn and she won't rot. The paint holds up surprisingly well to the salt and abuse. Nothing bad to say about a Fourtrack either. Get a good one and you won't go wrong with either.

Wise words. But then I read it... I know where you're coming from though!

Big +1 for Northerntrack in Leeds - ask for Andy. Also had good service from Abiljo in the past - good quality stuff.

They used to use the Volvo/Sisu type high-lift log handlers and assume they still do, pretty much unloading one train carriage at a time. To say I felt inadequate with a LogLift 85 is somewhat of an understatement... You feel very small inside Kronospan in a timber lorry!

Buzzsurgeon is right, 4x4x4 means 4 wheels, 4 driving, 4 steering. Maybe it's one of the 'extras' you mentioned

+1 I had a Safari in NZ also! What a truck.

A friend has a newish Defender registered as an Agricultural Motor Vehicle and he runs it on a Nil tax plate and red diesel. I seem to remember stipulations were that it could be driven no more that 1.5km on the public highway between field gateways within a certain (small) radius of his base. Tax, fuel and insure it for the job it will be doing. In the eyes of the law, delivering logs will most likely be deemed as 'haulage'. If VOSA were to get involved, the penalties for evasion would no doubt be serious.

Missed this bit...! In that case, fingerbar will struggle with rush clumps at low level. We have a 7ft off-set Abbey twin rotor topper that does a pretty mean job on rough ground with rushes. You can pick used ones up at handy enough money. Maybe want a dual on that side though if it's wet - they're pretty heavy and I wouldn't think you'd want all of the weight on the skids in boggy ground? http://www.abbeymachinery.com/products/abbey-topper-range.html On a side note, reciprocating blades are available in colossal widths - just look at combine harvesters...

+1 for the fingerbar. I've covered my share of ground with a rotary type topper as well as drum/disc mowers and in my experience every rotational type blade saps a lot of power when in water. The reciprocating blade on a fingerbar has - as you know - a short stroke, a low power requirement and does a great job underwater, just look at reed buckets for ditch cleaning.

I think you're after a 'Box Grader' or a 'Box Blade' as they are sometimes known. Available in a multitude of configurations - mounted, trailed, front mounted, with/without ripper legs, single or multiple internal bars... Various people make them, including Simba, but you might be as well just making one.

I'd let the manufacturers decide what they are and are not capable of... Although I appreciate where you're coming from. The biggest problem with ALL powered access and lifting equipment is incorrect set-up by the operator/user. This may be to the MEWP rental market growing faster and cheaper than training can keep up with or the feeling of indestructibility that some people get with 'oh I've got a machine, it's fine...' Too little attention is paid to gradient and ground bearing pressure - be it a wheeled, tracked or spider machine - as well as overload by exceeding capacity be it due to too much in the basket, gradient or wind. I'd recommend IPAF for training and testing of operators - they are very good and forthcoming with guidance to both help you and keep you up to date with current 'best practice'.

+1 Get a galved one. The old man has one that must be about 26 yrs old. Wants a fresh tyre like but still has (some) paint on the frame and wheel! Concrete, tarmac, silage, bricks, logs etc... Good investment.

That depends on how big it is! Can you send me a photo and some vague dimensions? DM your email and I'll drop you a line?

Hi TB, where are you based? If you had the dimensions/a drawing/an old one I'm sure we could make you an exact copy.

This is not correct. The two piece nut/washer on a truck requires lubrication even more. As I have said, a clean, well lubricated stud/nut will have better tightening characteristics, you will achieve the correct torque with less effort and therefore less stress on the thread. If the thread is clean and lubricated then the torque will be applied to the nut face where it is supposed to be as opposed to the thread which would show a false reading and cause damage. I believe 'correct lubrication of threads and interfaces' referring to wheel nuts is even covered by VOSA in one of their many documents.

Maybe check the rules and keep your head down Raker... You are creating something that if it was to meet the correct specification would be classed as 'B40' biodiesel. IF it meets the spec you will be entilted to pay duty at the biodiesel rate instead of the derv rate. "You can use vegetable oil in your car and mix it with diesel (vegetable oil is generally used as a substitute for diesel) but you will have to make arrangements to pay the Excise Duty to HMRC. Cooking oil (whether used or unused) which has not been specifically produced or processed as a road fuel, will normally be classed as a fuel substitute. The duty rate will be the same as the ordinary diesel rate." The 2500 litres is the threshold at which you become a producer and must notify HMRC of your 'intention to produce'. They expect duty to be paid irrespective of the quantity you burn. Be careful, the department of revenue and customs are keen to recover anything they possibly can at the moment - they're as hungry as the rest of us in these lean times.

New studs and nuts would be wise. The plastic alignment tabs you see are due to the dumbing of todays work force and the claims culture we live in. I'd bet a pound to a penny that a significant proportion of 'drivers' still pay very little attention to wheels and tyres, yellow tabs or not. Do NOT use copper grease on the thread or contact areas of the stud or nut. Use ONLY oil. The metallic particles in the copper can potentially, with vibration and use, cause wear to the stud and nut and in turn problems. Use a simply oil or a good dose of lubricating spray. A well lubricated stud/nut will have better tightening characteristics than dry one and will be far less inclined to come loose. You can however apply copper grease to the face of the wheel itself or the face of the hub in order to prevent the wheel corroding to the hub. This is especially effective when done where twin wheels are concerned or on a truck. Be sure to use a calibrated torque wrench and re-check after a couple of days.