Eddy_t
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Everything posted by Eddy_t
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I have a few spares if you need, such as clutch cover and front handle, also have a few other parts but I can't remember what they are as its new year...
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I don't have a brummie accent! I live in Staffordshire...
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I'm local to you
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Because it's overrated and stupidly priced, but if they sold it for a reasonable price (£200-300) people like me would convert them into top handles. And don't go by kWh, people are easily confused, bigger saws seem to use less on paper
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Simple, a 560 will pull 18" happy, so unless you're cutting logs over 2ft wide, get a 560, the 365 is 10cc larger and pulls 24-28" happily. It uses more fuel and weighs more. A 560 always runs at optimum, adjusts to the fuel and goes like stink! As previously mentioned, you learn to sharpen good, it'll beat a 372 in most timber!
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The basic conversion mod will match the 372 (as the saws are identical), which requires a t20 or t15 Allen key (with dimple hole), a dremel with milling burrs (eBay) and fine sandpaper for polishing. Spuds tuning and porting thread, and what's on your bench today thread are two essential reads if you want more out of the saw. Reliability is down to aftercare, a looked-after race saw can outlast an abused stock saw! The 201 costs so much because it's a top-handle climbers saw, and climbers like to spend stupid money on shiny kit (don't believe me, look at any thread on here containing the acronym SRT) As for the 'farm' saws, the 555 is good (more power than a 550) but it's no 560 and can't be made into one. As for the Stihl semi-pro range... I'd rather stick glowing hot needles up my arse than use one of those slugs ever again!
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Porting is modifying a 2 stroke engine for more power. The 365 and 372 are essentially the same saw, other than the little metal covers on the cylinder, which have constrictions on the 365. There is a thread on here about the modifications that can be done, although it does void warranty. Speaking to different members will give different prices on the work, but you don't have much choice on who would do the work, as dealers don't, so it's a choice of spud or petermate. Or you could do it yourself! It's not difficult!
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No, the 3 series are still strong runners, I have a ported 357 that smokes any 560 I've ran it against, many love the 346xp, and with the 70cc huskies, if the 540 was anything to judge by, the 572xp should be on sale in 2018 at the earliest... My line up generally consists of a 560 on 18" .325 with a 9t rim (not advised for a non-pro) and a 385xp on 36" 3/8 8t rim. Anything too big for that probably shouldn't be felled, as a bigger saw is heavy Some Stihls aren't pants, the ms150t and 241 are great, it's just Stihl are trying to compromise speed and power too much, trying to compete with husky and makita, that and they haven't ironed out the technical issues of switching to husky tech.
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3 series saws are being replaced by 5 series, it's just husky's very confusing way of telling you what's newer... Until you look at the homeowner models, so don't! The farm saw models (anything without an XP) are just detuned pro saws, although the 5 series are more heavily detuned. The difference between the 550 and 560 is amazing, and £100 wouldn't cover the difference! The 550 May be a wasp to some on here, but the 560 is like a hornet, on steroids and speed!
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Conifers! Especially a heavy reduction. Birch tends to rot if you wave a silky near them... Willows sprout from every last square inch if you prune a twig.
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You have 2 choices 365, send it for porting and have a cheap 372, or buy a 560 and make sawdust extremely quickly! Everyone bows to the swedes now! Even makita pay for the privilege of being almost as good
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Buy a 365 and grind the transfer covers out! Instant 372xp that'll pull 28" for £100-200 less!
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Your cup is worn out, they're obsolete, rare and fairly expensive now, £20-30 a shot (ok, not as expensive as a new starter and flywheel). I've tried re-grooving but that doesn't last long. Also, with any of the first series saws 1106-1115, the identifying features should be taken with a pinch of salt, as the Stihl factory slapped them together in any random order.
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99% of parts for those saws are still readily available
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No, it mounts through the front, there's a little blanking plate
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No, that saw has always been a ts510, it has an orange base-plate on the air filter. The original Fairbanks starter is now obsolete, and has been replaced by the newer starter, but most parts are still available. To make the pump work, you need to fit a worm gear
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Back to porting the 560, the shaping, polishing and grinding is done now I didn't widen the exhaust port much due to some slot-things on the piston, but I did reshape the uppers! Unfortunately reassembly has to be put on hold as I've lost 2 bolts for the intake, so I'll have to get the muffler done and finish the engine in January.
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Yes! Join us, there isn't enough porting in the UK, out of the 5? members on here who do porting, only 3 of us put anything up, and one is very secretive.
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the dealers make money from you wrecking a saw! It states in all the current manuals - alkylate fuel is preferable, failing that, jaso FD (husky XP or Stihl hp super, or equivalent) at 50:1 with >5% ethanol, everything else at 33:1
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Stubby, when you first used one they had pivoting bars and scratcher teeth!
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Ian Morgan is definitely the best choice, friendly, clear instructions, and people tend to have better skill with a file! I've done courses with others on the suggested list, I still prefer Ian to other local trainers.
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Jaso FD is what the manual states, Stihl red hp is jaso FC, or possibly worse! If you used aspen, then it would have been a machine fault. Even Stihl say Stihl red is inferior for new machinery!
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Merry Christmas, spud! I think more than a few scrappers have survived in my collection thanks to you! Have a good Christmas, although you haven't said what you've bought your missus this year, does it beat the pie-maker?
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Bit of rough grinding to give you an idea Lowers Intake Removed the bump inside the transfers and blended higher up It's worth noting that the seals on the transfer covers are a nitrile type seal, so will need watching as I suspect after a while will cause an air leak!
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no!
