Eddy_t
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Everything posted by Eddy_t
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Don't confuse the poor guy! Personally I prefer a tongue and groove with a wedge
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Go big or go home, I believe that's the saying?
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Someone in America has fitted a normal carb
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And so much better for not needing screwdrivers! Although it makes a tachometer redundant too! To answer the op's question, the throttle linkages has a magnet and 2 sensors on; idle and full throttle. When the magnet is at idle (0% opening) the saw tunes the idle with a set logic - idle too high -> add more fuel, idle too low -> add less fuel When the magnet approaches full throttle (>90%), the saw tunes the H with the same principles; rpm too high -> add fuel, too low -> less fuel. It also does the tuning under load (when the saw is at WOT, but the rpm has dropped between 8-12k rpm, what it does here I'm not sure! The Stihl m-tronic and gen 1 autotune are the same, which works on a start-up basis, tuning the idle and max rpm on initial start, it doesn't adjust during run-time (unlike the new gen 2 autotune on the 540xp, 545, 550xp, 555, 556, 560xp and 562xp).
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It could be due to the fact that cut-off saws run super rich, being limited to 10k rpm, although I would imagine there's something to stop backfeed or the crank would be filled with dust or slurry
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Only if it's an insulated MEWP, it's too bulky for LV and landowners get pretty pissed when you trundle across their land on HV!
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If you're going to choose Stihl, I'd go with the 044/046/440/460 or the 064/066/650/660 as they're the most customisable saws. Plus the 660 has every part available as aftermarket!
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Any air leak is a problem, as it draws air into the cylinder and leans out the mixture
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Stihl MS390 with #31 etched in top cover - ebay add
Eddy_t replied to TriggerNW's topic in General chat
Bloody hell, you must have a good resolution on your screen, but evidently still not good enough to read a serial number! Stihls don't start with 0! Wind ya neck back in and chill! -
Personally, I think his best video was how to mod a 201!
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Good luck with it mate! The most important things are sharpening, making sure the tree goes the right way (use the black felling sites on the saw) and you must make sure the hinge is correct, don't cut it too thin!
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I have, it's slow and involves carrying a combi can constantly! Although I'd only ever do that again if I had to, and only soft wood!
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Black walnut it's worth loads of money too! Hornbeam otherwise! Don't see many African ironwood trees in the countryside, but there are some British iron trees over the road, buggers to fell!
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Eventually, unfortunately husky announced the product before it was all finished, bit like the 540, and we all know how that went... So pick a date, any date! And it won't be that date
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Bahahahahahahahahahahahahaha! Although you could substitute just about any tree in there nowadays!
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I'd go 1.5x bar length if you're a novice, double bar length can be tricky if you've underestimated the diameter. Likewise, you'll need a suitable sized saw, so you're looking 35cc and up for a 14" or larger bar. It's possible to do over double with a bar, but when cutting without experience, it's quite easy to sever a hinge, create a poor gob by under and over cutting, or end up below the hinge as you bring the saw round.
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Eh? Hairy arsed tree surgeons complaining about a bird wearing too much makeup? You'll be painting your nails next!
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18" on mine wes
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Yes, one of mine failed once too!
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That's the ones! And the ridge on the clutch side!
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Toying with the idea of a 540xp next... I've ran out of saws currently I do need to do a video of the 560 at some point!
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Just an Oregon chisel chain, the one with the humped drive link. Rakers are about .35 (.404 depth gauge tool)
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Beware of the transfer bolts, they're barely clear of the crank on my saw, all I've done is liquid seal the base instead of a gasket!
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I'm guessing it's an aftermarket piston being fitted? Or have you turned the base down?
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I'm ok, yourself?
