Eddy_t
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Everything posted by Eddy_t
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Have you taken it to a dealer for a reset and diagnostics?
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The best part is he was correcting the guy from husky on the history of the company he (adw) has worked for probably longer than ady's been fixing machinery
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Actually it does work, the air moving over the cylinder is at the same pressure, but then gets heated, which expands and creates a higher pressure. That's basic thermodynamics! If it didn't, it would cause a Venturi effect on the air box and draw air away from the cylinder. Run a saw with the cover off, you'll feel the air being blown out of the tube, it's only slight, not like a turbo, but enough to feel!
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Yes, but you can repair them with ONE screwdriver, a cigarette packet, an adjustable spanner and gaffer tape!
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Yeah, but your missus can make you suffer innumerable times before you die!
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Just as a footnote, the 365 has had 3 versions to date, parts are readily available, with Husqvarna even providing upgrade parts. Various bits off the saw are also sought after, so even after 3 years, if you decided to strip it and sell it as parts or a wreck, it'll still fetch strong money.
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Nah, I'm not a fan of the 880, the 084 was a better saw, especially on longer bars where the manual oiler is essential
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In chainsaw terms, bigger is better, and the correct number of chainsaws is how many you own +1! I own from the smallest to the largest. Each has its application, and a valid reason (read bar size).
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Yes, it was originally patented by jonsered in the 1980's, although it is called turbo on jonsered saws, as it does cause a forced air feed. On Husqvarna it's called air injection because it FORCES centrifugally semi-filtered air into the air box.
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Less swings of the saw, climbing through overgrown thorn is the worst job!
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Yes, I'm fully aware how it works, I modify them! Huskies also force air into the system, so the air is at a higher pressure than atmospheric! With a short window of duration on intake, increasing the intake-able volume of air will mean more can be drawn in per cycle, giving more power.
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Overgrown hedgerow?! 90cc dolmar! Trust me, the less swipes in a thorn hedge, the better!
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Not necessarily correct, it effectively doubles the filtration area (doubling the air intake), this is why Americans use huge air filters!
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Pm me your email address, I'll send you the ipl and workshop
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It's not the age that counts, it's the power they wield! When you consider the 1106 series Stihls are still mass produced and have been in production for a whopping 56 years!
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The autotune has 3 settings; idle, wot and under-load. It has 2 throttle position sensors; closed and open, at open it tunes to wot unless the rpm is at cutting speed (8-12k rpm). I'm not sure on the ignition advance, the Americans seem to have great success advancing the timing the usual way, so I assume it's no different to a normal saw, the second set of magnets is probably to keep some sort of current going to the processor. We aren't yet at a stage where chainsaws are as advanced as cars, they would need a separate power unit!
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Try pulling the decomp, it may be in! Personally I hate them and prefer to blank them off! Killed a few pistons with a leaky decomp!
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090GS! The ultimate saw, even better would be the legendary 'ten cuber' but that would be rarer than rocking horse shite!
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The autotune runs off rpm, so if the limiter is activated it adds more fuel, if it doesn't reach max rpm, it adds less fuel, it's a very simple process! If you wanted to 'remap' the saw, you'd have to delimit the coil first
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Then why fork out on a saw? You only need a homeowner saw, the husky 135, Stihl ms211, or whatever makita/dolmar equivalent is available! If you want bigger a 440/445, ms231/251 or mak/dolmar equivalent to what you have. Although a Stihl picco super chain is much more of a valuable upgrade to speed your cutting!
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Increased airflow, using the black filter in summer will cause damage to the engine as it will suck more dust through
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No, it wouldn't be too heavy, unless you think 5kg is heavy? 10cc less isn't much lighter, only the 25cc saws are light enough to use all day. I'm guessing you don't often come across the larger diameter timber? You may be better getting a 40-50cc saw if you want something better than what you have, otherwise there's no point in getting another saw.
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Up to 18" yes, as it has a higher rpm range, after that, torque take precedence on big bars. Ian, I have ported my 560, but I have to wait until next Monday to get the 562 air filter, I'm also trying to sort out the muffler, as I can't weld, so a third party has to do it for me.
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What's the point of looking at smaller saws that won't be up to felling? You can always strap a carving bar to your makita if you fancy trying carving!
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You need a husky 365. You also need a sharpening kit for a 3/8 chain (7/32). You need to learn to sharpen, watch some videos on YouTube. You need spare chains (these are about £25 each). You do not need training like a pro, you are not a pro user and are not earning money from it. But it is advisable you get someone to show you the basics. Don't cut with the nose/tip of the bar! Teeth point away on top of bar, towards you on the bottom! Use decent two stroke oil, not cheap stuff or red stuff! Use husky XP or Stihl hp super! Don't use old fuel. Don't use engine oil for bar lube.
