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Try to get one with pit zips for ventilation, it saves taking a jacket on and off because you get too hot on a climb. Good quality jackets will have a pit zip you can open and close with one hand. Also a good quality zip that won't fail, cheap coats = cheap zips, the better coats have zips that open up and down. Ripstop material helps keep it from getting shredded, and a hood that can accommodate a climbing helmet is a bonus. A good waterproof jacket is also useful as an extra layer on a cold windy day. This is the one i use, it's excellent Berghaus Carrock Berghaus Carrock Men's Waterproof Jacket | GO Outdoors if you're on a tight budget, maybe this £5 poncho is a good idea. I honestly think I might get one of these at that price, and keep it in my climbing kit incase I forget to bring a coat. £5 poncho that clips onto harness Design Go Poncho & Pouch | GO Outdoors

Husqvarna 365 70cc £554. http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/machines/chainsaws-pole-saws/petrol-chainsaws/husqvarna-365-x-torq-chainsaw-70-7cc/

"The Capsula Mundi concept, from designers Anna Citelli and Raoul Bretzel, uses an egg-shaped burial pod made from biodegradable starch plastic as the coffin, in which the body is placed in a fetal position and buried under the ground. A tree (or tree seed) is then planted over the top of the pod, which will use the nutrients from the decomposing body as fertilizer for its growth. Although the Capsula Mundi is still a design concept, not an actual option for those planning for their funerals (in part because of regulations about burials and cemeteries), the designers hope that in the future, this type of burial will be allowed and "memory parks" full of trees will be planted. Instead of cemeteries full of headstones, the trees would serve as living memorials to the deceased." Egg-shaped burial pods feed the trees and turn cemeteries into forests : TreeHugger Would this create a good source of nutrients for a tree? or even provide a stable base? I've always wondered if trees planted over coffins are potentially unstable, as and when, the space in the coffin collapses over time. I like the idea. What do you think?

Maybe practice some swings into the truck and absorbing the impact with your legs, start small and progress to larger swings. Of course when it happens for real you won't be as well orientated, as skc101fc mentioned, but it will help a bit.

This is a really good lecture about overuse injuries, covering issues like tendonitis, knee cartilage damage, stress fractures. It's 1 hour and 30 minuets long, watch it when you get chance.

try gumtree, or ebay. you will find someone locally. ibc containers in Cornwall | Gumtree

Hope you get well soon, thanks for posting. I suppose it would be much less embarrassing not to admit to minor accidents and near misses, but it's posts about acidents like these that serve as a reminder for us all to take care when working. Even experienced professional can make mistakes.

I've been using one of these berghous coats for a while now, I got one on sale a while ago. The important thing to deal with the heat issues is to have large underarm vents (Pit-zips) so you can adjust the temperature fast, Goretex only deals with a bit of the heat. You could probably get a second hand one on ebay for a bargain price. they are also good for shedding against the wind. The Berhaus Deluge pro pants are good value too, if you can pick some up of £40-50, again the zips go all the way up the side so you can vent heat fast, it also makes them easy to take on and off. Berghaus Carrock Men's Waterproof Jacket | GO Outdoors

That's good news Rick. Before I got into tree work, I was working for a landlord maintaining commercial property. My boss got a quote from a tree surgeon to take down 6 trees, the first 3 trees were straight fell, the 4th had an akward lean and the last two were close to a Mobile phone mast, and would need sectioning down. A day before the job was scheduled to be carried out, a JCB driver who was levelling some ground for my Employer just pulled down the first 3 trees for £50, a friend of my boss chopped them up. This left the last 3 difficult trees for the tree surgeon, my boss started haggling them down to do the quoted job for half the price, as there were only 3 trees left. But these were the difficult ones comprising probably 75% of the quote.

I took the protective sleeve off one of these slings and but it over the business end of the lanyard, It should protect the beeline from general wear and tear. LYON PROTECTIVE SLING - 120cm, tree surgery, rope access, rigging | eBay

This is the new climbing technique that i am working on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHkow10nWpM

These look good, i'm not sure how you would cut the glass though. Table Topography: Wood Furniture Embedded with Glass Rivers and Lakes by Greg Klassen | Colossal

just use black grate polish, it will go straight over the rust. black grate oil stove cleaner | eBay

Perhaps some anti vibration gloves might help a bit. Anti-Vibration Gloves | Gloves | Screwfix.com From riding a motorbike in cold conditions, i know that it's not so much the quality of gloves or amount of gloves you wear. Your hands get cold because your core temperature is falling, this makes the body restrict the flow of blood to the hands and feet. the opposite happens when your core is too warm, the blood flow increases to the limbs and the hands and feet act help to cool the body. That might exacerbate the problems from arthritis due to the cold. Gloves will help, heated handles will help too, but if your hands are still cold, then some extra layers will be more effective.

I friend of mine was quoted 2k for an inguinal hernia repair at a good private hospital, i think it was Spire in manchester, they may have other places in the uk. 3k seems expensive unless it's a double hernia, both sides of the inguinal canal. I had one done by the NHS years ago, it was ok, in and out in a day. I took a week off work, it was two weeks until I could lift something heavy 50kg, it was ok to lift, but not recommended.

Wrights Tool Hire are a good company, they are makita service dealers too. Find Your Nearest Depot - Wright Hire

The turbine housing could only be accessed by a spanner on, half the types of turbine. The ones where we could remove the compressor housing could be removed with a impact wrench, but again we found that the snap on impact socket lasted a hell of a lot longer than a cheap one. On most of the other sizes of bolts it was fine to use a cheap socket of spanner.

I respect your right to have your own opinion based on your own experiences. But, I can't respect any opinions you seem to have on other people experiences, we can just decent the whole discussion in to calling one an other idiots or liars. Yes, there are more effective ways of removing bolts that are stuck fast, we could and would shock bolts with a lump hammer and chisel, we could also heat the bolts and rapidly cool them, but all this took a lot more time than simply using a strong tool that worked. And given it was a high turnover production environment, time costs money. Yes we did have arms like popeye and often we would shear the bolt of with hammer and chisel, the great thing about the snapon spanner was that the bolt would break before the spanner. If you want to use low cost tools for occasional jobs where you have the time to work at a pace dictated by the weakness of tool, by all means use them, have fun. But don't try talking down to others by dismissing their experiences, if you regard people who use snap on tools as foolish people who buy in to some marketing hype, then great you entitled to have you opinion, but equally people don't have to respect your opinion. Edit( if your point was that people who insist on having 'every single tool' as a snap on, regardless of whether they need a higher quality tool or not for jobs that don't demand it, just for the sake of having the best quality tool, then I would agree with you, that they are buying tools based on brand on not their own work demands)

I disagree, I worked for a few years remanufacturing turbo chargers at Garret, in the section where old turbos were disassembled we had to use quality tools, to remove old rusted bolts that were practically welded to the turbine housing, the tools were abused beyond any kind of warranty, they had to be to get the job done. We tried all the cheap tool makes, our bosses made us go though this every 6 months or so to see if it would save us money. The snap on half inch spanner was around £20 and would last for at least one month, the other tools like from Cromwell were £3 and would last about two hours. The cromwell tool salesman assured me that the metal they used was the same as snap on, I demonstrated in front of him how long his spanner would last, Red faced he muttered something about sending it back for "metallurgy tests" Sure, we used the cheaper tools for jobs where a tool might be used once every while, but for constant use we needed to use high quality durable ones.

Just buy this book, and all your questions will be answered. THE TREE CLIMBERS COMPANION, TREE CLIMBER'S ARBORIST, TREE SURGEON, TREE SURGERY | eBay

I use one of these cut away strops on the swivel krab and then use another small krab to attach to the wirecore loop. You need something that you can cut for aerial rescue. I suppose tying a Double Fishermans, with some 8-10 mm friction rope would eliminate the need for the other Krab. Stein 22kn cut away strap | F R Jones and Son

Thanks Tony, I got mine a few days ago but only just got round to trying on with my harness. I like the design, but was a bit disturbed by the thin line at first, but once I started using it the thin line wasn't a problem. It works great and you don't even feel like its on there. I've noticed on a few pictures that some people have the line going out of the square section where the plug is, is it an easy mod to do? and is it better that way?

I hardly ever used to hit nails, but due to the volume of wood being cut I found that the biggest problem with chop saws is that the bushes would wear out in the motors. Make sure you buy one that you can get replacement bushes for.

I suffered from tendon pain in the elbow for ages, tried everything ibruoprofen, massage, ultrasound etc. Eventually a private physio worked out that the reason I was suffering from tendoitis in the elbow was due to my biceps being too tight/overworked. More importantly, the biceps was taking all the strain when climbing, because my upper back climbing muscles were weak. Weak lats, superspinatus, rhomboids etc. I had to work on rows, lat pull downs, rotator cuff, scapular rows, scapular pull ups. It felt better as soon as I started doing the exercises and it improved my climbing. Also a compression band will help soften up the biceps, taking strain of the tendon. You can make one out of a bike inner tube

Carbon really doesn't stand up to much abuse, at least according to everything I have read about them on Bike forums. I'd rather have a heavy durable saw that lasts, without having to constantly replace all sorts of random parts due to failure caused by parts being substandard. Sure, some parts will naturally wear and eventually fail as the saw moves through its product life cycle, replacing those bits is an essential part of how you service and maintain a saw. When parts fail because they are substandard, it's a design fault, often due to cost cutting or greed as the manufacturer knows that they can charge extra for some bit of flimsy plastic, further down the line. I want a saw that lasts and doesn't let me down, that's what I expect from a professional tool.