se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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these are not as thick as you want but they may be of some use? american black walnut timber, planed wide boards | eBay
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What else should I buy before my wife wakes up?
se7enthdevil replied to Stoatally's topic in General chat
some more chloroforme to keep the wife asleep.:lol: -
what species will you be taking out?
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i recommend you call yourself an idiot as that way you can only graduate to genius and not go from a genius to an idiot. with regards to your fence why not just use a timber that is rot resistant? anything in the "cedrus" genus will do just fine for 15-25 years. western red and larch are ok for up to 15 years. false acacia (robinia pseudoacacia) will also last up to 25 years which is as long as good english oak. if you want to go for some of the best timber though i recommend "makore", "greenheart" or "opepe" as they will last over 25 years.
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not too much in leaf in my area, some cherries but all species are struggling.
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if only they grew in this country mate. no toejam, unless he collects exotics. they are all ghanaian species and i'm looking to import them but can't find any interested parties to help me as i do not have the capitol to do it on my own. the orange one is called senegal rosewood (pterocarpus erinaceus) and it weighs about 55lbft3 but is not a true rosewood and belongs in the padauk family. the brown striped one is called senya (daniellia oliveri) and smells fantastic when worked and only weighs about the same as sycamore at 38lbft3. the really dark one is a bit of a mystery as no one seems to be able to identify it. it is not african blackwood as the sawmill tried to flog it as and neither is it any sort of ebony nor is it chakte preto. all i do know is that it weighs 71lbft3 and is gorgeous.
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this stuff is amazingly dense. .
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lovely to turn and it's quite aromatic too. .
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these are only the underside of the bowls but the wood is so nice it deserves to be seen... .
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now you mention it i think mine are stanley ones, yellow handled with a black rubber grip... i still bought them at B&Q.
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there is no point in buying expensive chisels to to that sort of job mate, when i first got a job as a joiner i bought the 5-6 sizes in the range of cheap chisels at B&Q and i'm still using them 15 years later... just keep them sharp.
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depends on the joint and how many i have to do. i broke it out for a couple of the joints on the benches on this job, http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/60100-all-my-woodwork-so-far.html i still did most of them with a hammer and a chisle but i'm a trained joiner don't forget. i find them fairly easy to do and i've done thousands over the years. get a good router with a known brand like dewalt, makita, hitachi. not sure what is top market gear these days so do your research.
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if you have lots of mortises to do then get a good router... you can only go in about 2 1/2"-3" with a cutter though so remember that if you have deeper ones to do then a drill and chisels are usually best. with regards to accuracy for me it's just down to practice mate. when i became a joiner in 2002 i was poor to begin with but after 6 months you get the hang of it and they start to look a bit more like the masters work rather than a blind man.
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i was on wikipedia the other day and noticed that it's named after the bloke who invented the process.
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3.7kw. or in old money it's a 5 horse power motor. thanks for the good idea mull.
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don't have a phone, but i'll try to get a snap if i can. good idea...
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measured the motor and it's 7 3/4" (not including cooling fins) and about 15" long. anyone know what sort of hp that would be? i can actually feel a plate on the motor but it's underneath it so unless i get a mirror and a light i can't see what info is on it.
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annoyingly i don't know, there is no plate on the motor saying what it is. it's 240v and about 7" diameter. i'll measure it later as i may be able to make a guess on the power by the size of it.
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you never said what type of saw we could choose so this is mine. as you can see from the ebay photo it was in decent nick when i bought it but i refurbed it and now it has a 20" blade in it. and goes through 6 1/2" easily. got it for well under £500. .
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they only usually do up to 9" boards as they are intended for things like door frames. i used to work with one and we rarely used wider boards than 8" for our work. they are great machines as you chuck rough sawn timber in one end and get par out the other side. i've just found the biggest planer i've ever seen on ebay. Kupfermuhle VUIN 1050mm 4 Side Planer | eBay what a monster.
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don't think you can fit floorboards in a microwave. i use a spray can of cuprinol woodworm treatment. you could try a heat gun as it's only six holes? that should cook the little buggers.
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no matter what i do i use peltor optime III which are 35snr. .
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has anything happened with this elm yet?
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i have some spalted beech beams with a few splits at 5 1/2" square. 2 years air dry. i also have some sycamore at 5"-5 1/2" thick and could be cut at a wider width. drying for 5-8 years and is bone dry...
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i prefer danish oil but as mark says, others will differ in their choice.
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