se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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when the corner to corner length is compromised by the shape of the top line like dextas (very nice gates by the way) the angle is also compromised and usually only one long brace is needed either halflaping the middle rail or foregoing the middle rail alltogether. some consider the low angle brace as incorrect because it puts the stress on the stiles rather than the rails and could start to widen the doors as they settle and in doing so will sag at the meeting stiles too. a well mortised and tennoned gate or door should not have that problem and should last till the wood rots.
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if he gates are wrider than can be handled with a 50 degree anle then nothes should be taken out of the rail to correct the angle on the end of the brace as shown by mull29.
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being as im a joiner i dont actualy remember what exactly was taught to me when it came to ledge and brace but heres what i think is required from the style. each bit of wood on a gate has a job to do, the stiles are there to hold everything together. the rails are there to hold the panelling on and give the top line shape (if there is one) and top give the brace something to brace up against. the braces are there just to be an incomprosable length of wood cut neatly in place. technicaly all braces should be no more than 50 degrees as this could comromise the direction of force given by the weight of the gate or door. the ones gups 1828 posted are perfectly acceptable
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thats usualy indicative of a rebate meeting in the middle so one door must be closed first before the other can be.
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bit different to your tree services but would like to know what people think of my website... Steves Wooden Skittle Pins and Balls
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thats a clever trick...
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bowl turning is quite different from spindle work and everyone will find it difficult at first. my very first ones all ended up much smaller than i intended or completely the wrong shape to what i'd imagined i could have got out of that bit of wood. its all part of the learning process and things will only get better as you learn what you can turn and how you achieve certain cuts. i want to see that egg cup. please persevere...
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if you miss them then get back to your bowls ian... come on ladies and gents, i want to see more bowls. be you a novice, experienced or master turner i wish to see your bowls...
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woodcut bowlsaver
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£250 at the moment but the thing is ian, they pay for them selves in 5 minutes... i'd get one now before they go up in price...
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the coring device i have is a second hand woodcut bowl saver which is really good i just wish they made a slightly larger one...
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agreed, whats the brown ones in the middle? laburnum or sumach?
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is the first holm oak? not sure on the second, could be cherry but could also be another fruit wood... high res closeups would help
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some impressive stuff there tom, i dont think im quite at that level yet but could be one day. the large ones i mentioned in the eucalyptus thread are still drying in all honesty. they've had about 5 months now and are almost ready. out of 6 half logs i managed to get 22 blanks (16 beech, 6 laurel) and none have failed catastrophicly yet... i'm turning brown oak for the crown estate at the moment and have a couple of 24" ish blanks to turn. i'l try to remember to turn and take photos at the same time.
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woodworks has quite a bit of 6x6" you could ask him.
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thats a new one on me, i know canary wood as part of the centrolobium genus from south america. just shows how usless common names are again...
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only leaves i could find that are similar are roble beech (nothofagus obliqua), chinese zelkova (zelkova verschaffeltii), the keaki (zelkova serrata). i'll plum for the keaki as it looks almost identical and it also says that it gives subtle yellow, amber and pink coulours in the autumn.
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wood for outdoor structures are greenheart, purpleheart, azobe, iroko, english oak, massaranduba, ipe, jarrah, robinia, cumaru, curapay, teak, balau, opepe, cypress, larch, cedar (true only), douglas fir and believe it or not most specoes in the mahogany group.
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what sort of widths are they???
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thats a real pity if its a good specimin... it is used for all kinds of uses like ply, cabinetry, kitchens, interior mouldings, doors, guituar bodies, drum kits, harps and church organ components. the tulip tree is called poplar by the yanks but isnt actualy part of the poplus genus. liriodendron tulipfera is in the (magnoliaceae) the magnolia family whilst the true poplars belong to the (salicaceae) the willow family.
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burns too quick and doesnt give out much heat, basicaly it just takes up space in the fire. tulip tree is a very good joinery wood so if its a decent size then it should be milled
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i've got it mounted on my face plate but realised that i need to use the end of the lathe that has the larger capacity. i'm going to be doing some 24" bowls for savill gardens in windsor and intend to do yours at the same time. so in the next couple of weeks?
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bellringer, it is attached with a screw chuck. chris hennelly, there are many ays to attach the bowls to you lathe but it really depends ion what you are turning and what lathe you have. bobh, the feet on my bowls are part of the turning. this was a simple bowl turned to show muttley9050 just what can be done with his offcuts. i use dovetail jaws to hold the base of the bowl and unless its incredibly extravagant i leave it underneath.
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people know that a house is owned, usualy by the owner, not everyone is sure if the tree is owned by a person, the council or is on public land. not all trees are owned
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to that i'll say, "its english grown timber, well i'm english. bzzzzzz" if people dont want it taken they could put up a sign saying privatly owned or better yet, "a camera is watching you"...
