farmerjohn

Hi All, I have the opportunity to buy some nice straight Ash, Cedar Of Lebanon and maybe some Laylandii. I will be milling the timber into wide boards for table tops, what sort of money per hoppus foot are people paying for the odd large stick with easy access from a tree surgeon, I want a fair price to both of us so we can hopefully do more business in the future with other timbers. A cost per hoppus foot for the following would be handy, both for large logs 40” + DBH and 10ft long. And smaller like 24” DBH 10ft long Oak, Ash, Cedar of Leb Laylandii PS what is Laylandii like milled? I am interested in its visual appearance, and its properties. I have firewood quite a bit in the past as I have been told its all its good for and even then it spits. Recently I have been told to plank it and it us usable as cladding as it is similar to WRC (I am very sceptical of this). Thanks, John

awesome 4ft oak. Who has a mill in the south lakes are please? Id be interested in haveing a look at it if it is possible please. regards, John

2 lenghts i have not cut into yet but have been blown over a number of years not months like the ones above. 16" to 12" diameter 18ft long. (2 number about the same size)

straight long stick 20" to 12" diameter 19ft long

Large Lim 18" - 12" diameter 10ft long

Large Burred stem: 34" DBH 22" diameter just below the crotch, 17 ft long

Hi all, I have the opportunity to purchase some dead burr elm tree. I want to offer a fair price for the timber so would be grateful of peoples input as to what they would offer for the timber to mill. extraction and haulage is pretty good, apart from my time i think it would cost me around £100 to get the timber out and to the mill. The trees have been dead standing for 20 odd years (assuming got DED in the 80's) and have only recently blown over. I have cut into the trees, the large diameter tree does have rot setting in, although brown it is not too soft. there is a large lim from further up the trunk that is sound at both ends. the 3rd is a very straight sound stem. There is also some plan elm that may be a lot sofer but i have not cut into that. please see photos and size below. Any advice on a fair costing is much appreciated. Regards, John

hey James, thanks for the time the other month regarding our conversation about a lucas. so i decided to try this double headed set up out as it as way less investment and allowed me to mill the big sticks i have in as and when i get chance. i got 2 brand new 100 drive link chains with the mill that need joining, when i have lined one of them up, it looks like its going to be around 180 links long. (im at my misses where the mill was delivered and no tools here otherwise id be into it straight away!!!!) i was looking at the hyper skip chain, but it is stated it leaves a slightly rougher finish, i did think the 27AX Oregon Full Skip Semi Chisel re-filed to 10 degrees might be a good compromise as it look to have slightly bigger gaps between teeth so a little less sharpening than a standard Oregon ripping chain. do you generally touch a chain up after a few cuts or change it for a sharpened one and sharpen them off site? Thanks again, John

i hear you guys!!!!!!

im not sure what my local stihl dealer is like at cross referencing parts from one saw to another etc, but hopefully ok. I have used L and S a lot but did not see parts for 075av or the 051 on the website, just 2 older saws then the rest were all MS models. Hopefully my local sthil guys can sort out the parts, as the saw without baffles in the exhaust is LOUD!!!! and i am assuming that even if i can get an exhaust, getting the bolts off at the manifold without snapping them might be more difficult than getting the parts. I am hoping to get them services and sorted to have a bash next weekend as the frost has allowed me to get some big oak and spalted beach off a field that has been too wet to travel. will post some pictures up once i have done a bit

I have bit had the chain off yet but I think that's the number of links the bloke I bought if from thought it was. Out of inteest when milling and the chain becomes a bit dull is it faster to give it a touch up with one of the 12v grinders or change the chain?

Hi All, I have just purchased a second hand double headed mill with a pair of 075av's. It's running .404 chain, what's the best chain to buy, main consideration is quality of cut and the chain staying Sharp over cost, though there are around 200 links so it's a fair difference in cost from a cheaper chain to a top end one. I am going to but an auxelery oiler. One of the saws pretty much does not have any baffles in the exhaust, does anyone know if it's possible to get parts for these saws any more. Regards, john

I would also check the obvious and slacken the blade off and check for play in the bearings both large wheels are running off.

here are you photos, Its a fair stick that mate, will be some beautiful timber

Hi All, I have been looking for a previous post. I am not sure if it was in the milling or woodcraft forums, ill see if I get any reply's on here. there was a link to an American miller / joinery website that made simple but very effective single slab tables from wind blown timbers only. I think most of the legs were very similar. I don't think the thread was solely about this, just someone put a link to the site as a comment. I was just wanting to show my misses the site for some ideas. If anyone can remember it please post the link. Thanks, John

64" wide, is that each board or the whole area to cover using narrower boards?

also, what price per hoppus foot should i be offering for these elms? they will be to fell but pretty close to a track for collection

as codlasher says get in touch with a structural engineer to design a roof structure if it is more complicated than a ridge to wall plate unsupported span of no more than what is specified for said timber size. i always work on a 6x2 spanning 3.3m unsupported with slate covering. (thats mainly all we fit) I would not bother buying C24 as at most merchants i know of they will stock both but C24 will be a lot more money. regarding getting your sawn timber passed off as structural it all depends on the building inspector. I always have sawn, or saw my own oak beams out and visually grade them (making sure there are not large flaws in the beam) I have never been asked to produce a grading certificate for the timber (i think graded hardwood at mills around here are at least twice the cost of just sawn timber.) you'll get the same bit, just with a certificate. it is a risk if you go down this route but i know my structural engineer and building inspector very well and i know to a certain extent what is a good structural piece of timber and what is not. just to make clear, I do not tell the building inspector i have sawn the timber myself he just looks at the plan, looks at the timber and is away again. (they used to come and measure timber dimensions to see if they matched drawings when i first started off but dont bother now)

might ahve a peice of apple and maybe ash (ash might be very cankered) will have a look tomorrow

As per title really, these elm's have been felled or dead standing at least 15 years, timber does not seem to soft. Are they worth the bother? if so, any ideas of a rough idea of cost? i have not got measurements yet. I would like to think at least the ones that are standing / off the floor would be ok if not hollow up the center

if you do have at attempt at saving i would not use expanding foam, it will blow him to bits, maybe try some sort of 2 part liquid resin at does not expand.

thats a real tidy job that. any photos during the making?

what sort of length and section oak and ceder do you have? (mainly interested in bigger stuff 3x3 inch and bigger) i'm a bit away but might be worth a run down if i can tie it in with something else Thanks, john

pictures so people can see the quality of the timber and dimensions of timber will help people to be able to give you an idea of costs (not every board just a few to give a fair representation of the timber)