Mark_Skyland

Its built a lot differently. Where the carb would be is just a butterfly valve, the injector is below that directly into the crankcase. You cant just bin a carb and bolt on an injector. No sensors on the exhaust, there is one behind the flywheel. It doesn't monitor exhaust gases like a car would from what I can see. There are a few YouTube vids on stripping a 500 down, I did mean to make one but we never have the time and my workshop isn't in the best shape to make decent video watching content to say the least! I cant see there being many other fuel injected chainsaws as all the money is going into battery machines. Although maybe a big 120cc equivalent Husky, I only say that as they dont have one and its been what 4/5 years since the 3120 was axed. Im sure that they could have brought an autotune out in that time.

Thats looks like a decent chunk of metal that caused the problem. So im thinking no to piston ring pins and circlips. I am thinking that part of a main bearing has broken away but if you have pulled the crank seals and ruled that out then all I can think of is a foreign object like a screwdriver to maybe lock the piston to remove the clutch! Or maybe some baffles in the exhaust have broken loose and ended up in the cylinder.

I will be interesting to see the Husky fuel injected saw, I cant get hold of the parts list to compare it the the 500i. The 500i is built completely different to standard non injected saws and it is more of a PITA to strip down. Ive rebuilt a couple of them and you need to strip them to bits just to replace the piston and cylinder.

Thats the problem. HSE overacts and the pro sector has to pay for it. Meanwhile the domestic sector can more or less do and buy whatever they want due to the likes of lidl/aldi and ebay. One of the best over reactions I had dealings with was someone working on network rail decided to put his hand in the gob while felling a tree and lost quite a few fingers. The reaction was to make it a requirement that all chainsaw operators ware chainsaw gloves. Im sure that that really cut down on accidents.

It should be 3.5mm on the 372. As a very rough guide 50-90cc 261/550 - 462/572 use 3.5mm, 90+ 661/395 use 4mm for Husqvarna and 4.5mm for Stihl. Small top handles and machines with easy start use 2.7/2.8mm, small saws and regular top handles use 3mm. The average length of the cord is 800mm but this can go up to 1000mm for blowers and brush cutters. Its always worth having some 3.5mm cord in the van as this will fit most machines and can sort out the bigger machines for a quick fix although you may not manage to get it to fit through the starter handle or pulley on the smaller machines. Its always worth changing starter cord once a year as if it does go out in the field it can be clips, springs and recoil springs flying in all directions and a lot of cursing. To give it a quick check pull the starter handle out then pull the handle down the cord and check the cord where it goes into the bottom of the handle as that is the most common place for it to wear. If you have the starter cover off check the cord at the point just after the stopper knot in the starter drum. We sell cord by the metre so you dont have to buy 30 feet of cord at a time.

I agree but not with the idiot part, as I would be an idiot with the scars to prove it! Its more to do with home owners having accidents cutting up firewood that caused the issue IIRC and yes they did lump all the accidents together hence the requirement to ask for certs. A customer came in yesterday with one, I wasnt around but he was asking if we could get replacement bars and chains. He said they were selling like hot cakes and it was all the old dears diving in to get one. Hopefully there wont be another HSE or whichever body tried to ban the sales investigation in 6 months time.

A customer mentioned this the other day he said he was going to buy one for a laugh and at the least he would use it for a chipper snedding saw. It does make us look silly asking for certs for a top handle saw when people can just pop down to lidl and buy one.

If you have electricity to your yard I would invest in motion cameras and an alarm system that notifies you whenever someone steps foot into your yard, and a security system that alerts a 3rd party. Someone needs to be alerted otherwise they have all the time on their hands to do whatever they need do to get past all of your padlocks, gates fences etc.

Royalties can be paid directly to our PayPal account thanks. That applies to Mr WD40 too.

Is that an oregon setup with the 1.1mm gauge as I didn't think Stihl did a .325 sprocket for the 201?

Did you manage to find and fix the problem?

We've never stocked it, there's enough returns from people buying the wrong chain as it is without throwing another into the mix! It would be interesting to hear feedback from someone who has converted say a 201 to this setup, I think Stihl quote something like 10% quicker cutting when using a narrow bar and chain on the 261.

I do try to 'educate' them but they just wont listen.

Matty is on the money if you want to run the 14". Drill the bar as otherwise you will have to get chains made up. The stihl 10" needs 57 not 56 dl, the 12" 65 not 64 so I guess you need 73 which isnt available off the shelf, 57 and 65 are.Or do as Mark said and put a 10" on with a 57dl chain. Also as Matty mentioned make sure you have the 1/4" sprocket on your saw.

Do you want the 660, narr im good!

Every echo dealer can source the standard 1/4" cs2511, including, funnily enough us. But, we are also out of stock. We had half a dozen come in the other week but they were already sold. There is a supply issue atm so its a few more weeks before stock comes back into the UK.

You just buy the saw with a 1/4" bar and chain as opposed to the 3/8".

If echo sorted out the 362 they could take over the top handle saw market. My guess is that its an emission issue. I dont know how it works but no 25cc machine that i know of has an electronic carb so I presume they can bypass some legislation that the 35/40cc machines cant.

They may not be a husky dealer and have to pay top price for parts but even then its extreme. Did you do anything with the saw or is it still in a box in bits? Seems a waste if it is.

That looked good but it seems that you cant get them in the UK anymore. The start system on the br800 is to say the least a complicated setup! Ive only had two in for repair, one was was because the customer thought it was a four stroke and put neat petrol in it. The other was a starter issue. The starter was jamming open, I couldnt see any issue apart from a clean and grease and it seems to be working OK up to now.

As a sort of quick leak test I use brake cleaner fitted with a d40 smart straw (this thing WD-40 Smart Straw 450ml | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM All the benefits of the original WD-40 formula, but with a Smart Straw for precision application. Simply flip the straw up for a narrow stream or fold it down for a regular wide spray... and spray it around the intake boot impulse pipe area. You only need to spray a little, if there is a leak the engine will die. You have to make sure none of the spray is going into the carb, although with a little care you can use it to detect carb leaks. The wd40 will probably act the same as brake cleaner but I use a lot of brake cleaner and I fit them with that straw. Hmmm, maybe I should make some arb saw cleaner, smart straw plus brake cleaner. Yours for only £75.95 a can. Or buy two for £151.90 Bargain.

Every shop customer has said that the cs2511 is their go to saw. Most bought it for pruning work but then find out they are using it for section fells and the 201 540 gets moved to the back of the queue. As Mr Bolam said get the 10" 1/4" pitch setup or go for the stihl ms151 bar and chain setup. The bigger cs362 is very reliable but it hasnt got the power and speed of the 201 or 540 and it does feel more bulky although it's slightly lighter.

Its been a long time since I've climbed but that certainly brought back memories! Most of my interactions were killing the thing but sometimes it was just a deadwood and a reduction so not all bad.

Check the wiring first and of course the off switch, if something is shorting out it will stop the spark. Its about £10 for the wiring harness and £100 for the coil. If the rest of the machine is in good condition, loads of compression, no scores on the piston then its definitely worth fixing imo.

You really need to check for air leaks as holding onto a high idle is a good sign that something isn't right. Unless you have a few tools to block off the carb, exhaust and have a pressure tester you need to at least check manifold pipes, impulse pipes and check all fuel lines. If it is till doing it get it pressure tested as its a good few quid to replace a piston and cylinder.