Mark_Skyland
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Everything posted by Mark_Skyland
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I agree but not with the idiot part, as I would be an idiot with the scars to prove it! Its more to do with home owners having accidents cutting up firewood that caused the issue IIRC and yes they did lump all the accidents together hence the requirement to ask for certs. A customer came in yesterday with one, I wasnt around but he was asking if we could get replacement bars and chains. He said they were selling like hot cakes and it was all the old dears diving in to get one. Hopefully there wont be another HSE or whichever body tried to ban the sales investigation in 6 months time.
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A customer mentioned this the other day he said he was going to buy one for a laugh and at the least he would use it for a chipper snedding saw. It does make us look silly asking for certs for a top handle saw when people can just pop down to lidl and buy one.
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If you have electricity to your yard I would invest in motion cameras and an alarm system that notifies you whenever someone steps foot into your yard, and a security system that alerts a 3rd party. Someone needs to be alerted otherwise they have all the time on their hands to do whatever they need do to get past all of your padlocks, gates fences etc.
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Royalties can be paid directly to our PayPal account thanks. That applies to Mr WD40 too.
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Is that an oregon setup with the 1.1mm gauge as I didn't think Stihl did a .325 sprocket for the 201?
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Did you manage to find and fix the problem?
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We've never stocked it, there's enough returns from people buying the wrong chain as it is without throwing another into the mix! It would be interesting to hear feedback from someone who has converted say a 201 to this setup, I think Stihl quote something like 10% quicker cutting when using a narrow bar and chain on the 261.
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I do try to 'educate' them but they just wont listen.
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Matty is on the money if you want to run the 14". Drill the bar as otherwise you will have to get chains made up. The stihl 10" needs 57 not 56 dl, the 12" 65 not 64 so I guess you need 73 which isnt available off the shelf, 57 and 65 are.Or do as Mark said and put a 10" on with a 57dl chain. Also as Matty mentioned make sure you have the 1/4" sprocket on your saw.
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Do you want the 660, narr im good!
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Every echo dealer can source the standard 1/4" cs2511, including, funnily enough us. But, we are also out of stock. We had half a dozen come in the other week but they were already sold. There is a supply issue atm so its a few more weeks before stock comes back into the UK.
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You just buy the saw with a 1/4" bar and chain as opposed to the 3/8".
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If echo sorted out the 362 they could take over the top handle saw market. My guess is that its an emission issue. I dont know how it works but no 25cc machine that i know of has an electronic carb so I presume they can bypass some legislation that the 35/40cc machines cant.
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They may not be a husky dealer and have to pay top price for parts but even then its extreme. Did you do anything with the saw or is it still in a box in bits? Seems a waste if it is.
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That looked good but it seems that you cant get them in the UK anymore. The start system on the br800 is to say the least a complicated setup! Ive only had two in for repair, one was was because the customer thought it was a four stroke and put neat petrol in it. The other was a starter issue. The starter was jamming open, I couldnt see any issue apart from a clean and grease and it seems to be working OK up to now.
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As a sort of quick leak test I use brake cleaner fitted with a d40 smart straw (this thing WD-40 Smart Straw 450ml | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM All the benefits of the original WD-40 formula, but with a Smart Straw for precision application. Simply flip the straw up for a narrow stream or fold it down for a regular wide spray... and spray it around the intake boot impulse pipe area. You only need to spray a little, if there is a leak the engine will die. You have to make sure none of the spray is going into the carb, although with a little care you can use it to detect carb leaks. The wd40 will probably act the same as brake cleaner but I use a lot of brake cleaner and I fit them with that straw. Hmmm, maybe I should make some arb saw cleaner, smart straw plus brake cleaner. Yours for only £75.95 a can. Or buy two for £151.90 Bargain.
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Every shop customer has said that the cs2511 is their go to saw. Most bought it for pruning work but then find out they are using it for section fells and the 201 540 gets moved to the back of the queue. As Mr Bolam said get the 10" 1/4" pitch setup or go for the stihl ms151 bar and chain setup. The bigger cs362 is very reliable but it hasnt got the power and speed of the 201 or 540 and it does feel more bulky although it's slightly lighter.
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Its been a long time since I've climbed but that certainly brought back memories! Most of my interactions were killing the thing but sometimes it was just a deadwood and a reduction so not all bad.
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Suggest a firewood saw please
Mark_Skyland replied to devonbrion1998's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Check the wiring first and of course the off switch, if something is shorting out it will stop the spark. Its about £10 for the wiring harness and £100 for the coil. If the rest of the machine is in good condition, loads of compression, no scores on the piston then its definitely worth fixing imo. -
You really need to check for air leaks as holding onto a high idle is a good sign that something isn't right. Unless you have a few tools to block off the carb, exhaust and have a pressure tester you need to at least check manifold pipes, impulse pipes and check all fuel lines. If it is till doing it get it pressure tested as its a good few quid to replace a piston and cylinder.
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Some little trick ive used for a while since you dont need to start the saw up if you want to check for oil flow and you have an air compressor handy just spin the drum up with a blow gun pointed at the sprocket splines/rim. No chance of a clutch explosion using this method. Still didnt help me solve an oiling issue on a t540i though!
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Is the saw still running well and could you see a noticeable difference after the rest?
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It's good to hear that you've got it running. It is worth using the original carb if you can get it sorted.
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It looks like you've replaced a lot of parts. Is the piston and cylinder kit, and ignition coil oem? Have you tried using the old carb as aftermarket ones are hit and miss at best. You also need to make sure the basics are good, fuel line is good with no leaks plus the fuel filter is good. Spark plug is not a fake ngk as ive seen a few of them which wont spark properly under load. Fuel filter is sitting at the bottom of the tank, sounds silly but Ive fixed a few machines where the filter was jammed up at the top of the tank.
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Attached is the only instruction manual for the ms661. You need to do the 90sec reset. This explains how to do it. How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog BLOG.STIHL.CO.UK STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here. MS661.pdf
