Mark_Skyland

They wont be genuine at 25 new. Unless its salvaged stock.

The 260 was a decent machine, reliable too.

Ill try to check it this week but I've just had a lot on my plate getting machines fixed before the Christmas closure. I did have a scan on the interweb and resets only seemed to apply to resetting batteries that have Bluetooth connectivity, just to reset that bit so they can connected to other Bluetooth devices rather than resetting a failed battery.

Thanks. The 300's should provide full power. If its anything like the Stihl MSA 300 it will only hit about 5,000 RPMs with a standard battery.

I didn't think that they had arrived in the UK yet as I was trying to buy some spare parts the other week and there weren't any available, I couldn't even order them which usually means the machine hasn't been launched. If anyone does have one don't break it!

If you do buy one I would be interested in any feedback please. Do you have the X series of batteries as you will need to use those to get full power?

I think that the cost is part of the issue why they don't sell very well. It used to be that a machine, battery (or maybe 2 if there was an offer on) and charger was the same price as a petrol machine.

Not yet, possibly due in Jan 2026. We have had a few enquires about them but I'm not sure if any have landed in the UK yet. We only ever stock a few battery chainsaws machines as they just move far too slowly. Has anyone in the UK used or seen one for sale yet?

Hedge trimmers are by far the most popular battery machine. In the pro range top handles far outweigh rear handle machines in sales although they have died off a fair bit this year. Battery tech just isn't there for rear handle machines to really take off yet. Even though they can charge up fairly quickly they are just too expensive with too short a run time for a lot of pros to justify buying a decent rear handle saw.

£40 that's a good price. Make sure you have the right gasket sealant and its worth getting new seals they are about £6 each. You cant get the main bearings from Stihl as they only come with the crank from what I can see. If the crank you are buying doesn't have the bearings fitted then take your time removing the old bearings, you could try putting the crank in the freezer for a good few hours then try to quickly heat up the inner race of the bearing to get it off. Spud might have a few tips on this. You can get a set of gaskets and the seals for about £20, part number 4282 007 1600. The sealant is a bit pricy from stihl but they recommend dirko HT red which you can get from a lot of places.

Just a quick heads up to say that our last shipping date is Monday 22nd December. All orders will be shipped 1st class/24 hr as per normal. We are getting daily enquires about new products that haven't hit the UK in decent quantities or haven't been seen yet. Husqvarna 564XP, maybe this month but its looks like its going to be Jan 2026. ISC Reflex, again maybe late December but probably Jan 2026. ART Blackbird, no clue at all. Anything labelled arb for less than £100, never. A Merry Christmas and a good New Year to all from the Skyland crew. A big thank you to all of our customers as we appreciate every order, If you place an order over the next couple of days drop your order number to [email protected] for a free gift. We may enclose a free gift anyway, it just depends on how happy the packer elves are feeling at the time.

Its way better to buy the complete engine the time it saves is worth the extra cost. Plus if your piston and cylinder are good you could possibly sell them on or keep them as spares as they cost £300!

If you can pick them up from Liverpool you are welcome to them. I'm not putting them in the post though! It could be worth contacting your local stihl, husky, echo dealer as I presume that they will also have some knocking about.

It was a warranty job but no manufacture seems to want dodgy batteries sent back to them so they all live outside in a metal box until I figure out what to do with them!

As above its worth replacing it with a new drive sprocket on unless its fairly new with no wear marks.

I cant see any info about this issue or fix. I have a failed stihl AP in the workshop, I cant remember which model it is but I will plug it in to the diagnostics to see if there is a reset option. IIRC the only info you can get from the diagnostic kit is the temp of the battery and then number of cycles. Its just another bit of kit that cost a lot of money and does nothing!

The stihl micro 1/4" chains sharpen up well with the 3.2mm, they are just a bit fiddly to do. A guide helps a lot as the file can bend if you put too much pressure on it. We don't offer a chain sharpening service as its just not worth the effort but I did used to sharpen our ms150 saw when we were still climbing. You just need to have a bit more finesse, or, if its hit something nasty just fck it in the bin. Oregon has two types of 1/4", the standard uses a 4mm and the micro a 3.2mm. This is the 4mm file size fitted to a few machines but mainly the older echo cs2511 with the 1.3mm var Oregon ControlCut Chain - 25AP 1/4".050" - Skyland SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Get your smallest jobs done just right. 25AP is lightweight, smooth chain, ideal for pruning — our Micro Chisel® cutters have small-radius working corners for excellent performance... This is the 3.2mm file size for the ms150/151 and the newer cs2511 1.1mm bar Oregon AdvanceCut Chain - 24AP 1.1mm - 1/4" - Skyland SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM The Oregon Advance Cut 24AP is a fast cutting low profile saw chain. File Needed - 3.2mm - 1/8" For Chainsaw Models - Stihl MS 151, MS 151 TC, MS 151 TC-E, MS 194 T, MS 194 TC-E...

Yes sorry, I was thinking about buying second hand parts.

If you do convert it make sure you get a flywheel from a non mtronic as they are different to the mtronic ones.

I've only just seen this thread as I'm not as active on here as I should be. TBH I cant offer any advice repairing the battery as unfortunately they are throw away items once they fail. There are no workshop manuals on how to repair them and no spare parts apart from a few stickers and replacement cases on the Husky batteries. I've done a few tests on batteries across the stihl, husky and echo range of batteries but that's only been to satisfy a warranty claim. There will be companies that can repair these batteries but I don't know of any. Sorry I couldn't be of any further help but messing about with lithium batteries when you don't know what your doing can end up fairly messy from some of the videos I've seen!

Thanks for the information. Ill buy him the pla for now. I think that he thinks he is going to make a fortune making and selling fidget spinners and model surron's to his school mates!

Nice thread. One of my kids is getting a 3D printer for Christmas so this is a very timely thread. What type of filament do you use for those tools? He is wanting some pla but I have no clue at all as to what works best for certain items.

Ive had a few 211's with the same issue. Its always been carb related and its always been new carb time. I have one in the workshop that if the customer doesn't come and collect it soon its get sold on, its probably been here for over 12 months!

If you remove all the wires going to the coil and you're sure that the HT lead isn't shorting out and you have no spark at the plug then its usually the coil that needs replacing.

Carb issues that I see everyday are either, pump diaphragm with pinholes, this is the thin black plastic piece under the cover that is usually held in by one large screw in the centre of the cover. Blocked strainers or more often than not dodgy one way valves/valve/check valve. The accelerator pump is also prone to fail on a lot of the C1Q carbs. If gaskets and diaphragms don't sort it then IMO just replace the carb. Using a cheap Chinese copy can be hit and miss, Ive seen enough of them that I dont bother working on a machine if its had one fitted as you can just waste so much of your time trying to sort it out. If its a pro saw then just pay the money and buy genuine.