Pumpy

They used to bug me, but the one I've had about 3 yrs now is not too bad, once he's made the initial tunnels the new mounds are few and far between. I like the nice crumbly soil from the mounds to use in a potting compost, saves sieving it, I reckon the tunnels add natural drainage too, grass is in better shape since i gave up trying to catch them Bit peeved with the bugger that tunneled under a new hedge planting for best part of 1/4 mile, lost 10% of the whips as they were just hanging in mid air in the mole tunnel! I'd bury that bugger alive if I caught him

Blimey, I could have written that post word for word! Very good advice IMO. I have an unstable Spondylilisthesis (vertebrae not connected due to broken bones) consultant recommended the fuse op, at 48 I reckon I'm too young to risk it, I was on a heap of painkillers made my life misery, after 3-4 months proper exercise to get lined up again, I don't take any. I also bought one of these Painsolve devices, stopped a debilitating sciatica in 3 weeks, noticed improvement after 4 days, it was a bit of a PITA to treat myself 3 times a day with it as each treatment took almost an hour (you get bored holding it in place) but it was well worth it. When I cut my thumb off the surgeon was amazed how fast it healed, I believe the Painsolve device drastically improved healing on it.

Sorry Jon mate, just checked and it seems it's 26kw in the brochure (call me a liar for 1kw ) check this link out Pumpy

We have a 27kw Hunter does 4 rooms via rads, & DHW, and an Esse Ironheart range in the kitchen, all on wood as a bag a day of coal at £10 a bag is not cost effective. When I did my back in I couldn't process any wood for almost a yr, cost us best part of 2 grand at £175 per 2.5M3 load that year.

treequip is correct, sheet piling is vibrated in with a 16ton+ excavator, very expensive for what it is. Other options include, rock filled wire cages, aka Gabions, also expensive, or willow spiling where green whips/sets are used so the roots stabilize the bank when it grows.

Iskimyourwage.com

I use a similar trailer to the pic above, it started life as a tipping AG2000, someone had removed the electric tipping & brake mechs, presumably too slow, it's easy to tip by hand. It didn't come with the sides either. I welded some 2" box to each corner so I could slip some 2 1/4" box removable posts over each corner, I fixed plywood sides to the posts, and had the front n back boards on the spring loaded hinges, so they could fold down or fix up on drop catches, or be removed leaving the sides on. I can also remove all the sides and slip a section of old steel scaffold tower on each end into the welded box looking a bit like a bedstead. I can load it as a box trailer, a flatbed, or have cord lengthways or smaller lengths sideways. I cut my cord in multiples of my desired log length so there's no left over bits. I can easy get over a ton on it, it'll take more but it doesn't like to stop if I do HTH.

I'd tell him how difficult it would be to cut margins further considering there is 8 hours of TPO app/tree assessment/admin work already on his worksheet, which was done on the verbal contract he entered into when he authorized the TPO application on his behalf. I'd ask him how he'd like to pay for that work should he choose to use the batty bloke. sheesh.... some people....

From E-on 12.85p per KWh Standing Charge 26.09p per day (+VAT) From Flogas £57.75 (inc VAT) per 47KG Propane refil. From Anglian Water 134.32p per M3 15.62p per day standing charge 1 x M3 seasoned mixed hardwood £74.00 delivered (185 per 2.5M3 loose load)

well spotted skyhuck, I meant £200 per Qtrly bill, it doubles our lecky bill, so much so that I've turned it off until we can get the place insulated properly!

I fitted a Herald Hunter Multi-fuel (27kw) some yrs back, it heats two bedrooms, a bathroom, and DHW. I have run it on wood and coal. If you need it to run 7 radiators, you'll need to know the size of the rooms, windows, and insulation for the btu calculations, might be best popping into a decent stove shop with some numbers to give you a good idea what size stove you require, then you can look at different models that will do the job. I doubt the existing back boiler pipework will be sufficient it'll be a big install for central heating too, and a right headache if you want to connect in another boiler, say your current one. Think about the availability of logs in a bad winter. If you are buying wood in, you will need a HUGE woodstore, big enough to get you through the winter, a double garage size woodstore would be my minimum. Otherwise, say you need to re-supply mid winter, you pay top dollar and that's IF anyone has any dry wood to sell, if you end up only being able to find high moisture content logs, you'll freeze. If you use coal instead (and that will be the only way you'll keep it in all night unless you have a lot of real dense wood) it'll use about 18kg a day minimum if it's on 24/7, coal is about £10 per 25kg bag, or maybe a bit cheaper loose. Unless you have a plentiful supply of cheap, or free wood, and a very big logstore, I'd say you'd be better off on mains gas central heating, with a smaller logburner in one room if you really really want one. HTH. Edit: Oh and think about how your DHW will be heated in Summer, do you really want to light the logburner in Summer, or leave it to the immersion heater at about £200 per month?

Which is why I'm going back to LR .....as soon as this Jap moneybin is sold

Hey Swinny, had the exact same issue on my 06 Shogun, just had it done this week. I was getting flashing 4x4 light when not in 4wd, solid light when in 4wd but 4wd not behaving properly (just felt weird think it was popping in/out) I was also getting random ABS light and random gearbox light sometimes as I turned it on, sometimes after 50 or more miles. Local garage during the MOT said it was a faulty sensor, would need a diagnostic with Mitsibushi. Mitsibushi Diagnostic = £89.95 inc vat They found "internal failure of 4WD Solenoids - applied vacuum to 4WD actuator but seized - replaced Actuator & Solenoids" from the invoice... Actuator FR Axle FRE 177.92 (+vat) Valve, Freewheel clut 115.73 (+vat) The bits cost £423.28 fitted + the diagnostic cost Yeah Ouch!

Great thread guys, been reading bits of it for a week Talking of tooled up 90's on galv chassis, I'm after one soon, I was drooling over this one on ebay but with only 5k to spend I'll have to keep looking

I looked at satellite a few yrs back as my landline only give about 300k, download was faster, but upload still uses the landline, it was cost prohibitive at the time. I was on a Narrowboat last week, the owner has mobile BB on the EE network via a dongle, he was watching a HD streaming video with no buffering, asked him if it was that good all the time, he said at peak times it can slow down a bit, bit not so you'd notice too much, might be worth looking into.

Hey Dan, cross posted before. Yeah good mate, has Hannah recovered from that mental swim? nutter, top job I thought you meant your old bamboo frame yurt The Hunter should be OK in that monster, the air controls are brilliant if the rope seals are good so you should be able to get it goldilocks If it were me I'd get a set of fire bricks and cut em to box around the boiler (wear a dust mask them bricks are made of orrible stuff) cut the baffle plate down with an angle grinder to accommodate the fire bricks... jib job The installation distructions make such a fuss about putting a thermostat on the return so it's not cycling cold water when it's first lit, to avoid excessive boiler corrosion, I wouldn't run it dry without fire bricks protecting it.

Just had another look at it, it's a French Chappée 8088 stove, wants the back cutting out and plating, bit of welding here n there as the back corner has cracked, but I think it would function OK with a bit of TLC and new glass

Ayup Dan, not seen you since I dropped off your Hannah at Kettering Station after the ReGenAg course couple of yrs back I think you'll melt in your yurt with that mate, it's huge, ours heats half the house and DHW. I think the boiler steel is a bit thin to run dry, it'll warp and may disintegrate if fired dry very often (like the baffle plate did in our Esse), you could try getting some fire bricks cut to form a box to line it and protect the boiler. I have just pulled a pretty good multi-fuel stove off a narrowboat would suit you better, it needs new glass and the boiler is already burnt out so would need a plate welding on the back, half the grate is melted but it'd still be OK, yours if you want it (can't remember the make off the top of my head but it's a goodun as it has good air controls) I'll have a walk down after my tea and get the make of it if you want it. Pete

the facebook link appears to be broken. I have had good reports about this website, might be worth adding details as they get mailed out to relevant volunteers/agencies in the specific area... DogLost - Reuniting Lost Dogs With Their Owners

we use Shell Plant for mini digger spares, ours is a kubota, not sure if they cover case, but they're usually very helpful, so might be able to point you in the right direction if they can't help. http://www.shellplant.co.uk/default.htm

I've run Mitsis for a while, had a SWB shogun and currently running a LWB shogun warrior (both 3l V6 auto petrol) both were mechanically sound, both suffered the same annoying problems with warming lights. Intermittent ABS light coming on willy nilly (MOT failure if it's on) Intermittent 4x4 warning light telling me it's not disengaged when it has Intermittent Gearbox oil temp light coming on willy nilly, sometimes on startup when it's clear the gearbox oil is not overheating, other times after 2 hours driving just to unnerve you. Plug in a diagnostic and it tells you there are sensor failures, doesn't tell you which one, spend hours taking the wheels off and jetwashing the sensors (standard advice) and they still light up willy nilly, I suppose the next option is taking it to mitsibushi to sort out, you can see the ££ signs in their eyes..... caaaachinnnnng going back to LR when this one has its warning lights fixed and I've sold it

you could contact the seller via ebay, check back in your feedback and find the transaction, it will have the sellers name by it, then click on contact member from his feedback page.

I presume it is on the range rover number plate, LR started building them in 1970, so anything pre 1973 (or 1974 from April next yr) would be tax exempt. The cut down RR classic one in the link seems odd because it looks like it's got a 1972 series tub, presumably a series bulkhead (split screen) canvas roof, but defender wings/grill/bonnet, even if it uses the RR number I think it bends the rules as a cut down chassis is non original in the points system, but may qualify if it was converted pre 1998 legislation, weather it used the series number or the RR. this one looks well dodgy, a tax exempt "Defender V8" looking remarkably similar to a 90, but a lack of details on the "rebuild" makes it look even more dodgy

Cheers guys I've had 110s before, got burnt on the first one courtesy of the military tender outfit on honeypot lane, second one was a 1989, had two yrs of expensive maintenance before plumping for a 3.0v6 shogun, loved it until all the warning lights took on a mind of their own, then got a low millage 06 shogun warrior, which is too nice to use for chucking crap in the back, so I end up pulling a trailer just to keep the car tidy plus the running costs/depreciation are stupid for the 2k miles a yr I use it, just had it MOT'd cost £600 in brake bits, I know the guy who MOT'd it, he told me to get it waxoyled before winter if I was going to keep it or it'd be a pile of rust in no time, so I'm not sure I want to keep it How do the classic range rover "rebuilds" stack up as far as the VOSA rules go? Here's one on ebay for example I guess I'm after something solid, tax exempt I can run on classic ins, with decent engine and running gear, serious off road prepping type fancy bits (winch/lifted/roll bars etc.) are not essential but would be a bonus if I can do a bit of off roading fun, but also something that's not a VOSA liability, for about £5k or under, and I'm not sure one exists yet I presume a pre 98 rebuilt something would be easiest to avoid possible VOSA shenanigans, assuming you could prove it was a pre 98 rebuild from the V5 or other paperwork, with the correct chassis & engine numbers on the V5 also. I'm in no rush, I'll put my shogun on the market first which will stop any "impulse" purchases Yeah if you see something on the club circuit might fit the bill shoot me a PM

Blimey, looking at these things seems a bloody minefield! Cheers HH. I'll be asking for a ESVA test cert before parting with any cash!