Adamam
-
Posts
490 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Adamam
-
Thanks for putting the picture up!
-
Surely I can't be the only one trying to work it out? obviously his people went to some lengths to obfuscate it's origin, so thinking probably wasn't an old McCulloch or something else American?
-
Thanks! This looks good value too with 2 batteries. Never bought dewalt before... Also Makita seem to have changed 10.8v battery format and don't offer a wrench in the new shape.
-
18v is overkill for 99% of the stuff I do, and I have airtools for that stuff. The 10.8v stuff is absolutely perfect size for all day use, and powerful enough for most mower/saw/strimmer etc. Just wondering which format to go for since I don't know if there's anything to choose between (say) Makita driver or wrench apart from the drive format?
-
I know this isn't directly chainsaw, but I'm working on chainsaws, pedestrian mowers, ride-ons etc. I need a new cordless impact wrench or driver (either 1/4 hex or 3/8, depending). 10.8v. There's air tools in the workshop for proper stuff. My question is this; impact driver with 3/8 adapter vs 3/8 wrench with 1/4 adapter? I can't afford both wrench and driver at the moment. Any opinions would be great!
-
Don't bother with the cheap generic Chinese ones on eBay and Amazon, they are shite. They're fine while they work, but they break almost immediately. I've used 3 now, and all have been made of cheese or similar.
-
They are very well built and excellent starters. They are big and heavy for the CC/power. The 68cc version (120) is the same apart from pot/piston and thus is a better bet weight-wise. Some parts are virtually impossible to get; pot/piston for example. Antivibe buffers are painful to find and are usually knackered unless already swapped.
-
Greenstripe if you want OEM. Or DIYspareparts.com both are good.
-
If you have access to a mains socket, there's no way that an electric saw isn't going to provide far, far more torque than a £50 petrol saw. My ancient, super-cheap B&Q 2000W saw has cut through all sizes of timber (and pallets, and doors, and sleepers etc etc) with no complaints at all.
-
621? It's that era anyway.
-
I think the 45mm Meteor is closed port from memory; sort of big bore 346xp/353 mash-up. I've used a couple and they've been great. Look at the pictures; Husqvarna 346xp 350 351 353 Big Bore cylinder piston kit 45mm w/ gaskets Meteor - Wolf Creek Saw Shop
-
Jonsered 2152 is the same saw and (for a Jonsered) are common and seem to go for less than the Husqvarna version. Presumably because fewer people have heard of Jonsered. I have one on eBay at the moment. There are a few others too, all look in good condition.
-
I have a suspicion that there's a fair/massive amount of psychology at play in the positive reviews of the Huztl saws; Give Bob a 60cc Chinese Brand XX saw to try and he says "rubbish! underpowered crap!". Give Bob a Chinese copy of a Stihl 036 and he says "Oh! Is good! Almost exactly like a Stihl!" Not that the fake Stihls/Huskies are necessarily bad, but I'm sceptical about whether they are much better than a bog standard Chinese £60 saw (which people are perhaps too happy to rubbish). That said, I might buy a kit for giggles.
-
I use a 2 litre Legacy MK4 for this although the fuel economy isn't amazing; low 30s. That said, it's quite smart and extremely strong compared to some of the suggestions. Volvo V70 diesel is another obvious option with a massive boot.
-
Spares for Makita Dcs430 Chain Saw SPARE_DCS430 from Power Tool Centre
-
I've used a couple of Chinese carbs and they've been absolutely fine. Have you checked the impulse hose? They're quite prone to failure on 028.
-
Cargo Cycles Mine has seen a tonne of action, and has been run over with a forklift twice. It still works perfectly. You can strip the planks off a pallet in a fraction of the time it would take with crowbars etc. 90% of the time the planks come away without damage. I don't know if you would recommend one if you have no interest in using recycled pallet wood in building projects because of the cost of the bar, although it would still save a load of time. I see that there is a cheapo 'Rough neck' bar also available from various shops, although I doubt you'd get years of service out of it. Youtube video:
-
There's a chap in Norwich who sells a BRILLIANT pallet breaking bar. I can find my old sales email if anybody is interested. With the bar, you can strip the planks off WHOLE in no time at all, and then saw them (or use the planks for bodge-work) easily. About £40-50 and mine has paid for itself a thousand times over.
-
I had this exact problem in the exact same place at least once, maybe twice. The issue was caused by an aftermarket boot and fixed with a Husqvarna boot. The pattern parts boots (at least from Farmertec/Huztl) are wrong by enough of a margin to (sometimes) cause air leaks. Tried sealant to bodge-fix, but didn't really work well enough. The OEM part is ridiculously expensive for what it is (maybe £20? can't remember) and is available from Greenstripe. Maybe your issue isn't the same...
-
Efco 181 is the same as Oleo 981 if it helps you to google opinions. Aborist site seems to quite like the Efco version. I've repaired and used a good number of Oleos and Efcos and I like them; no top handles, and none as big as the 181/981. The 'pro' range (156/162 etc) are really well built IMO albeit not in a super modern style. Achilles heal is the clutch cover which is more fragile than it should be (magnesium; should have been plastic IMO). I would imagine the build of the 181 is similar. The semi-pro saws (146/152 etc) are more plastic, but still run very well and stand up to abuse. The designs have been in use for some time now, and spares are fine albeit not as ubiquitous as Stihl or Husq. A bit general, but that's all I have.
-
Titan stuff is good in that although cheap and cheerful, Screwfix are good at replacing when stuff blows up without putting up a fight. Cheap electric chainsaws are generic Chinese stuff, and the Titan will be the same as any number of other rebadged stuff (Argos/B&Q/etc). I have an old PCS2200 (B&Q) that has worked without fault for years and continues to do so. If you want a posher one then Efco/Oleo-Mac electric saws are good value and parts are available (wouldn't be for Titan etc). You can often find the 2000W Oleo (om2000e) marked down to £100 which is about £70 less than the Efco version (same saw). Significantly higher chain speed than the cheap ones.
-
On eBay you'd have to list as spare/repair so probably looking <£200, maybe closer to £100-£150. Almost certainly better off listing the bars separately. Definitely worth tapping the holes/whatever yourself and selling it at used/working (maybe £300ish).
-
As an aside, most of the chainsaw manufacturers have free manuals online (not saw user manuals; generic use/safety manuals). The one from Echo is good, for example. The Homeowners guide is generally considered decent and covers a good amount. I would imagine an inquiring mind with a laptop and a manual might come away potentially far safer than your average hung-over 20 year-old daydreaming his way through a beginners course... Not suggesting courses aren't absolutely the correct way to go, obviously.
-
Thanks so much all! I'm waiting to hear back from a local Al-ko dealer, otherwise I'll take up the offer of help. Thanks again!
-
Brill, thanks! I've actually had a nice reply from Al-ko who say that they can supply parts from pre-Al-ko saws, so we'll see. Hopefully!
