dervishcarving
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Everything posted by dervishcarving
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did good with the wood you had available. Its always a dissapointment when the stumps are so short.
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Ive had a few windblown douglas fir that have sat up once we start removing the crown. The first time it was exciting, took the visor off my helmet! since then ive learnt to jump faster! Would usually take the root ball off first but sometimes they are so jumbled up in a mess its not so easy
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Good place to start carving for a noobie?
dervishcarving replied to Agi-Smash's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
start with a simple mushroom then try for some with long curly stems, learn how to do curve cuts and how to make parallel cuts etc. The skill with starting to carve is to understand how to remove wood to leave what you want behind. sounds simple but it isnt be warned though, its addictive -
Logs seasoned fire wood, how much a load?
dervishcarving replied to jack88's topic in Business Management
up Scotland way you would pay about 70 per cubic meter (softwood) and about 90 for hardwood -
I took a carving (a small dolphin) inside to quickly last year. I could hear 'clicks' for ages before i realise what it was. Fortunately I kinda like the way it cracked so i didnt mind. I do mind when turned bowls warp so much they split though. I have a bowl i turned from a decent elm burr a couple of weeks ago that i put i the shed. The hot weather we had in Scotland for a few days made it crack accross some of the whilrl
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I can see hwy, the stains left by the metal look good when milled but removing them before milling can be 'orrible
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yup, carving only what you want to do is the best My problem is not wanting to say no to the community-stuff i do
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gone one that, like it also like the Adder in teh garden. not seen one in the Uk for a long time
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its a different saw mate with a whole different approach needed give it time eh?
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i started with an electric, was a B&Q own-brand. standard bar, worked fine. had to give it a chance to cool down but did a lot of early stuff with it problem is, they are less powerful and the chain runs slower than a petrol saw and that, ultimately, is why petrol is better unless you need to work indoors or quietly
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excelent use of a winch there I love the colour of spalted beach and its v pretty milled i dont like carvign beach though, wheni ts green it dosnt half clog up the carving bar
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alternative is to get some sanding flap-wheels like these and stick them on your angle grinder. go through a couple of grits and then move to the random orbital sander as the previous poster 10 x Flap Discs 115mm x 22.2mm, sanding discs, abrasive wheel for angle grinder | eBay
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i use the same bar/chain... its a joy! once it has had a bit of use i will shave down the width of the guard teeth a bit to improve efficiency, i also find the back corner of the teeth need a bit more of a trim after a while but i think i just cant stop fiddling with the chains
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u thinking of carrbridge?
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great they are now in place Si, whats next then?
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Power is not really a consideration for a detailing saw. A detailing saw is just thta, for small cuts and for details for big cuts, use a bigger saw I use my big saw for the big cuts, I use a husky 440 with a 12 inch toonie bar (got it from RobD on these forums, well wort the money, get the sugi hama one) for smaller and more intricate cuts (it will do the big cuts but its slow and im inpatient). for my detailing I have use an MS180 (im on my second, first was old and second hand when i got it) for 18 months now and find its perfect for the job. light and small as my key considerations. a big plus for the 180 is that they are cheep!
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If you can make contacts with somebody who buys logs for veneer or with a furniture maker you might have an easier time sellign it for what it is worth. Timber like that, its surely sufficiently unusual it has decent value?
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any time i have used a ms200 it was a great wee powerhouse. Mine was sold with no bar/chain/sprocket. im not convinced the buyer can find much profit in it but he knows best
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Oh..forgot to add. My dad has had a yew down recently in his garden, north wales. Dunno what pieces he has left but i can ask if you like. long way to go for collection tho?
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whilst hardwood dust isnt great, a definite health-risk, its impossible to show a clear causal link there bellringer. Could have just as easily been caused by a whole load of other stuff. Definitely worth wearing a mask when sanding hardwood tho, its really not nice. plus the spores from any fungi will only make the situation worse
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good find then! I sold my old M180 on ebay recently as non-working, didnt run properly, would not hold revs, surged and died as i tried to use it, oiler was not oiling (despite hours of cleaning and stuff) plus a few other problems like the starter not engaging with the flywheel etc. Sold for 70-odd quid (plus 20 postage and i did actually spend 19.50 on postage, i hate people who con you on postage) and the buyer seemed happy. But before i sold it i cleaned the thing up, was v clean when i sent it, carefully wrapped. now i have space to get another saw just cant decide if i want a 170 plus the new samurai carving bar or a BIG saw.
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Aaron and my latest eagle carving
dervishcarving replied to Happycarver's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
gettin to be a big lad eh? -
have you tried contacting Rob D on these forums? if anyone knows he would
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i trained with phil too but we didnt bother with pictures. i have my own picturs now of my hand, so i know what they can do saws can be dangerous and the way carvers use them is more dangerous than standard use. hence we do all we can to stay safe
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yep, that would be a good one to try. there are some fairly decent 'patterns' out there (or even on here, try a search) that gives you an idea of the blocking-out cuts to do first. I think getting teh blocking out is the most important part, it sets teh proportions for everything. but i never used to bother until i started doing much more complex shapes and after i made 1 mistake that ruined a piece, i started doing it properly
