Rich2484
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Everything posted by Rich2484
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What's the comp like after warm up?
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Ben 1111 640 2012. Chain sprocket 1/2" 6T (B) Or the 404 1111 640 2002. Chain sprocket 0.404" 7T The 6 or 7t is the teeth on the sprocket mate.
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Oh yawn. You finished. :lol::lol: Can tell what you do for a living.
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Yep that who I just looked at. I like swapping the prices form highest to lowest to see what was the most expensive and have a good laugh at it. The highest on mine was £2284. That's without any extras. So no, windscreen, legal, courtesy car, personal accident, breakdown and an excess of £225. For a 1990 disco. I paid just over the excess for it in the first place. And I get a free meerkat teddy aswell
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Had my renewal quote on post today for the disco. I was expecting a slight jump in cost but its over doubled. That's with no claims for the year.... And they say the gov are blood suckers.... It stupid. They know that now everything we own has to be insured so they take the complete mick in doing it. I hate ins companies. It's damn right criminal. And I have found a new quote from someone else for the same amount I paid last year... Guess I will be changing this year. Rant over.
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I wouldn't run it without an air filter.. Sounds like either not enough fuel is getting through to cylinder or too much air. Could be the metering valve isn't opening enough to allow fuel through. Did you put the diaghram in the right way up? Other than a pressure test to check the seals on saw body. I would look into the metering valve.
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The ones with three terminals are for a little light that illuminates when the switch is in use. P would work ok. It's easier to put a voltage meter on it to see witch way is on or off before fitting it to saw so you get the terminals round the right way before hand. Just makes it easier than getting the wrong way round and having to take it apart again to swap them. Depending on how much space is behind the switch determines if the switch will fit. Don't worry about the voltage of the switch for this application it really doesn't matter.
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What he said. If the saw wasn't running it should be ok. Clean out the fuel tank and leave to dry out. Take carb apart and clean it out and dry. Also dry air filter. Water could have gotten around the coil and caused a bit of rust around the contacts. Check these over and clean with wd and fine emery, also on the flywheel.
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Look into the brake band area. Had a few saws like this and the band was actually broken on the end causing it to hold onto the springs and handle. If you remove the drum and plastics around it it will expose the brake mechanism and you will see if its broken or not.
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Have replaced the mounts on one before and to be honest didn't notice much front eh old ones to the new ones. When you push down on it the plastics at the top will touch each other and go back to there original position. They won't snap back into place just move back again. If they have been taken apart a few times the rubber could have been worn by the crew tightening up. You wil know when they are properly worn as the saw will flap about and knock.
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Sorry should have been more clear again. It's the gloopyfy that I meant on the pump. Therefore blocking it up and doing nothing. Have seen before when people have changed oils and then it stops oiling. A quick cleanup and all is well again. Sorry again.
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Ok. Eddy. I was curious over the cleaner as it is 20 quid. I will be looking for a proper one. This was a how good you reckon that one is kind of thing. Some tools that come out of Aldi or Lidl are of a good standard and work well. Wounder if this was one of them.
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You have put the bit I need to point out in bold anyway so I don't have to. A kick back occurs when the saw is suddenly impacted on the kickback zone on the bar. I.e when the saw is dropped.... Ah sod it its too late I'm out with Steve. Thanks for the link morten I will be saving that one.
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No probs mate. Pm has been sent also. But spud is also the legend of arbtalk and saws aswell.
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I'm lost. :confused1:
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See if it gets relisted after the buyer does a quick google search on it brings up this thread on arbtalk. And Justin gets a phone call tomorrow morning...
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Yes there is a small screw. Flat head screw. It should be there anyway according to the manual.
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Haha. Ok remove bar and chain. Looking at the plate remove the small flat headed screw. This removes the plate. Remove clutch drum. Remove clutch. There are I think three hex screws around the drum. Remove these and it exposes the chain break components. Argh. Ok sending a pm.
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It means that you should check the chain stops when you have a kick back from the saw. In reality your daily start up checks should make sure the chain break is working as it should and you shouldn't have to worry about doing a kick back test. Maybe only do it once a week just to be sure. But be carefull. And wear the right ppe.
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Yep agree with spud. Forst check the oil hole on bar is clear. They do hold oil on them and seep out a bit after use but not much. There is a rubber cylinder shape part behind the thin metal plating and behind the plastic sourounding the clutch area. If this has perished at some point it will leak. Also worth checking the pump aswell. Strip the bar and cover off then run the saw without bar and chain on, then stop it and see if or how much oil comes out and where from.
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Hd a really quick going over on the solo top handle tonight. It runs really well considering the comp is low. Needs a clean and tune up as it runs high and takes a long time to slow down to tickover. And reminds me that Aldi have u.s cleaners in aswell. Will be picking one of those up this week to try them out.
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2008 ford ranger fpur wheel drive problem
Rich2484 replied to David Riding's topic in Large equipment
Its n the wrong forum mate. Contact a mod and get it over to the arb trucks forum. Might get a bigger audience. I don't know much about the ranger I'm afraid. But was thinking along the lines of the vacuum pressure. Not sure on how to test it. Have you tried removing the lines and seeing if there is pressure there? Other than if the gearbox oil and diff oils are ok. -
Ok seeing as you are willing to pay over the odds I'm gong to say £150. But that's only to cover the piston and not the pot.
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Would you like a price for supply a fit of new piston and or pot??? :lol:
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I would have to say.. Why not? If there are people out there willing to pay it and buy it then why not... It's not the seller who I would moan about its the buyer..
