pleasant

The code on collection system has been in place for sometime. Most of what i sell on the bay is too big for postage so pretty much all is collection. I always ask for payment on collection.....simply because before someone pays me, I want to demonstrate it to them so they are happy before parting with their money....to me, it shows honesty on my part and is reassuring for the buyer, plus its less messier than trying to do a paypal refund should someone in the unlikely event they arent happy. My phone isnt an android, so the code system doesnt work on it any way. It never used to bother me or the buyer that i couldnt put the collection code in. I always mark an item as payment received, and you used to be able to mark it as item collected. I did note on my last collection i went to mark as payment received which i could but the option of item collected has disappeared, so for the last 6 weeks since collection its still showing as 'now send the item' Im not that worried as i have the cash.

I do find this quite amusing. The FS106 was produced from mid 80s to early 90s, so even the youngest around would be over 30 years old. The value is zero, OK, maybe £30 if you're lucky. Try going into your Ford dealer and ask for a part for even a ten year old fiesta worth a grand and the part would still be obsolete. Why in their right mind would a company keep making parts for a machine that is A. at least 30 years old and has outlived it's projected life around 3 times over, and B. No one is going to spend more than it's worth on repairing. Like all 'classic car' people if you want to keep something running then you don't go to the original dealer, you go to a specialist or you re-manufacture yourself.

Picture paints a thousand words IMO

In a domestic use situation or even gardener type application there is nothing wrong with the MS211..........a good reliable saw. Ok, it's not for going out to work for several hours a day, whereby using a chainsaw is near 100% of the tool required, but in a job whereby it can be part of your machinery that gets occasional use, then it is fine......and that's it's intended use. I do agree a 261 in a pro environment, whereby trees are your job, then you can't go far wrong. Horses for courses.

Admittedly a rear roller mower isn't great for mowing lawns all year round- they are more of a finishing mower- just like the old cylinder mowers used to be. Draw back to using a wheeled mower when the ground is damp and spongy at this time of the year is you will get tramlines in the lawn which looks unsightly and adds ridges to the surface. If you have worm casts, then yes using a roller mower may be messy, but the roller is doing its job by flattening them down...which is a benefit.

Landfill.....

Well , when I started I had hair and a six pack. I now don't have hair where I need it and loads where I don't and the only six pack is in the fridge.

Either been run for sometime previously on an oil rich mix and the muffler is partially clogged so not getting hot enough to burn the excess oil off, or you are currently running a very rich mix and that is the excess oil in the vapour. And when you say you have torched the muffler, did that entail actually removing it and getting it red hot all round? Whilst you had it off did you check/clean or remove the spark arrestor (if fitted)

Yup, spot on. Followed my own advice for more than 20 years on my own machines which i use domestically. Run them dry when i know im not going to use them, then when I do, i use fresh fuel and never had a restarting issue the following spring. My (new) customers that dont know this have kept me in business for near 25 years now. I always make sure they always dispose of any unused fuel in their fuel cans over winter....had a few in the past that have taken my advice to run the engine dry before storage, then in the spring they grab the petrol can thats been in the shed for 4 months or so and wonder why it won't start....really defeated the object of running the old fuel dry if you're going to do that. No different than turning a fuel tap off, running it dry after, but still leaving old fuel in the tank, then turning the fuel tap on 4 months later and filling your carb with stale fuel. Some customers are lucky and do get the odd machine to restart, so think we're bullshitting, but invariably one day they come to us and believe us in the end.

One of those things, that someone who knows and would immediately look at it and say 'that's not right' but difficult to do on here really. If you are stating you have got the same model, but purchased at two completely different times several months later, with two completely different bar/chain set ups, and BOTH saws have exactly the SAME issue you have had previously, yet nothing is reported of this issue online or otherwise, then (with respect) could it be pilot error? Seems a lot of coincidences otherwise.

Ahhh...thanks for the update. I will amend my advice to my customers..

E10 has a recommended use by...or shelf life of only 30 days in small engines. It deteriorates very quickly with 10% ethanol and absorbs moisture a lot quicker in the atmosphere. Manufacturers now recommend to avoid E10 at all costs and if you can't stretch to something like Aspen etc, then use the premium unleaded which is E5......or better still find an Esso station as most of their stations petrol has zero Ethanol added (with exception to certain stations in the West country...for some reason?) If you use the machine regularly in a pro environment, whereby you can easily use up your E10 fuel within 30 days, then you generally won't have any issues. I see it causing problems all the time with domestic users who occasionally use machinery such as chainsaws, blowers etc, and mowers when they've been laid up over winter. Fuel taps on Hondas left on or off won't make any difference if the fuel left in the tank or left inside the carb is old. You can turn a Honda fuel tap off, but if you just leave fuel in the tank, all you will do is fill up the carb with crap fuel when you turn it back on.....and that's assuming, that once you originally turned the fuel tap off, you actually re-started the engine and run it 'dry' until it stopped. Fuel taps on Hondas are now only there to prevent spillage through the vent hole in the top of the carb for transportation purposes- so if fitted to machines that are mainly designed to be transported from A to B...like cement mixers, generators etc, they won't leak whilst being bumped around in the back of a van. Same engine but loads of different applications....Honda just leave it on, but it's not there so you can turn it off to store it with petrol in any more...used to be years ago before the introduction of ethanol, and good old full fat leaded red coded pump fuel

The two are like chalk and cheese. Do you want a rear roller or a wheeled machine? Once you have decided that, then you have made your choice out of the two you have mentioned. Aside from stripes (which is actually a by product of having a rear roller btw) having a roller will allow you to cut right up to the edge of your lawn if you have a dropped border lessening the chances of scalping, it will cut lower than a mower without a roller, as the roller can act as a foot guard if you use it without the grassbox fitted, lessening the chances of your foot entering the rear of the deck. Mowers without a roller have to have the blade height raised slightly to try to avoid this. And a roller prevents tram lines in your lawn when cutting in early and late season when the ground is damp and spongy. Up to you. The Moutfield does have the Honda fitted, which is a good engine (providing you never leave fuel in the carb for extended periods as they easily gum up) but it is a wheeled mower, and the gearboxes aren't great and wear quickly. The metal chassis can also rot out quickly...certainly quicker than a lot of others I see. You are fine if you clean underneath after every cut and don't let it build up. There's less chance of clogging as by not having a roller the discharge chute will be wider, but you won't have the advantages of having a roller listed above. Cobra products are a Chinese brand, generally using Lonchin branded engines.....they are OK (ish) but parts can be difficult to obtain as are dealers if you have a warranty issue. Neither would be my first choice, but it all comes down to your budget...as always. Personally, if I am not using a machine for commercial use, I would always have a rear roller mower in my own garden.

All machines we ever sell are fully assembled, fuelled and oiled ready for customer to collect. He/she is then given a concise handover as to start, run and stop it. Including the correct use of safety devices and what to do and what not to do. This covers all machines we sell, whether hand held or wheeled, such as lawnmowers and such like. We have been main dealers over the years for some of the biggest and most prestigious brands- but not Echo. All brands we have been a dealer for stipulate this is how their machines should be handed over after a concise PDI, and we sign paperwork to prove this has been done. In the last 10 years or so, with the introduction of more stringent EU emissions- especially 2-strokes, we have seen an awful lot of 2-stroke machinery assembled by us prior to hand over, that will barely run out the box....this is, so if randomly picked off the production line by some EU official the manufacturer can be guaranteed it will pass emission tests. Once the machine is sold, emission tests do not apply, so us dealers override if necessary the factory carb settings to allow the machine to breathe properly- and thus operate as it should. We do have the odd machine out the box that will run fine with no tweaking, but will probably come back for an adjustment a week or so later. We don't charge for these adjustments as it would be awkward to do so and doesn't foster good relationships with customers.....even though the manufacturer won't pay us for doing so, so it cost us time and money, but in the long run it will pay off for us.

Duck bill vent valve missing? Cap not on correctly? Hole in tank body? Oil feed pipe split, damaged, not on properly or missing?

You are probably correct, but I was being light hearted about it...hence my comment

....or they were, but they were happy not to have them back.

Yes.....all 5 of those in that line are Chinese clone shite. No wonder no one came forward to claim them. 😅

Ladies and gentlemen.......this thread explains to you in no uncertian certain terms why you should avoid Hyundai and buy the correct machine in the first place. This thread should really be an infomercial. 😅

The Flymo hovers fitted with the Tecumseh MV100 engine had the snorkel set up on the upper handle

Good engines that Suzuki M120x. Remember selling them new. Unlikely to find ready new parts for that.......NOS is possible from an old dealer. Flymo part number if you need it: 5195293-00/5

Agree...and also need to take into account insurance. Would need to inform his insurer the machine has been 'modified'- if not, and it takes his eye or leg out, or (and I know several people this has happened to) they have kicked up a stone and taken out a double glazed patio door... machine inspected and discovered not 'stock' and insurer didn't pay out. A lot forget this.

If you are suggesting a replacement power unit thats compatible with your existing attachments, then there are more variables to consider than just the inner driveshaft. Internal and external diameter of the of the outer alloy tube, the way the attachments fix to the power unit tube.....not sure what you mean by mentioning the honda gx50, as that is just a bare engine...not a complete power unit which would plug and play?

You dont need to know the make and model of the carb. The unique briggs and stratton engine codes on the blower housing will give you a parts list which will inform you what carb is fitted and the part numbers required to order. It will be model, type and code...thats how the engine number is formed. Just type the model and type numbers into google and you will find a parts list. The first two numbers of the last set of numbers. ...the 'code' will tell you the year of manufacture should you need it.