GardenKit

I don't use a saw much these days, but years ago when I did I never had any fancy vices or clamps. I just used to cut about 3" into a log or stump and rest the saw in the cut with another suitable log under the handle. Does no one do this these days?

If I am honest Andrew I am always mindful of the possibility, but in practice I see very few machines returned, and the ones I have had come back have never caused me any issues of trust with the customers, and have just needed a very slight tweak on the L screw to weak. It seems to me that it is more often that I have to richen the mix from petrol to Aspen, than weaken it from Aspen to petrol, if that makes sense. In other words a petrol machine is quite likely to need a tweak to run on Aspen, but less likely to need tweaking back to run on petrol again.

Another successful outcome for the team:thumb up: Spud and I don't agree on everything, but between us we can usually get there. From now on I am going to try to bring two words into more common use, "cause'" and "result" In this case the "cause" of the fault was the AV and the "result'" was the impulse tube coming off causing the apparent "fault" It is essential always not only to cure the fault, but find the cause.

You don't need a whole carb, just a replacement rotary valve. I keep them in stock for this eventuality as they have an adjustable jet. Not expensive.

That looks like a Walbro WYL carb. On many models there is a mixture screw which is easy to miss. If you look in the centre of the little brass bush on the barrel you may see a tiny slotted screw head about 6mm down, but this may covered with a little plastic bung which you need to get out first. The images show how. Once the bung is out you can tune with a jewellers screwdriver, they usually need to be screwed in very slightly, just slowly move in either direction to get your tick over. No need to reseal. But some variants and clones have a metal ball pressed in rather than the plastic and you cannot adjust these, but new carbs are not badly priced. In general the WYL is just about the most reliable carb I ever come across. Good luck [/ATTACH][/ATTACH] [/ATTACH]

You got a pic of that carb?

If the rear AV in particular fails then the handle lifts too high and stresses the inlet manifold, impulse tube and fuel line.

crazy init? one of the most loved saws plagued with the same small problems from the day it was launched to the day it finished. Never really rectified. Typical of Stihl. Workshops throughout the country and presumably the world inundated with the things. At least there are a lot of experts in the repair. If only they had used a Walbro, they would have solved most of the issues.

Blimey Steve, that was a nice, simple diagnosis:big grin: Only kidding mate, all is good.

On the first saw I reckon you need to initially look at the detent. Thats the spring which fits into notches on the switch shaft. Should look like the one in this image. With the second saw I would say you have an air leak. The choke is making the mixture just rich enough to start, but not rich enough to cause it to stop. Probably because its getting a bit of extra air from somewhere. The fact that it won't run without the choke also qualifies this diagnosis. But where is the air getting in? OK you could go straight to doing a crank pressure/vac test:sneaky2:, but I would first look at the inlet manifold boot. Check it for a split on the underside by looking through the gap under the air box with the handle pulled up as far as possible. You might see a split. Whilst you are there check that the impulse tube is attached (thats the black tube that looks like a smooth fuel pipe.) If you have any leaking petrol it could be a lack of fuel rather than too much air, so check the wrinkly fuel pick up hose from tank to carb. If you do have any of these problem, repair them but also check the AV mounts, they could be the cause. If these are alright, proceed to stage 2 which Steve will surely give details on:biggrin:

"I've got a tiger in my tank!"

Back "in the day" Duckhams 20/50 was the oil to aspire to. Cortina, Marina, Maxi, Capri etc and a bumper sticker too! Also a rocker cover full of mayonnaise!

Honda engines, just like other Japanese engines need are meant to use 10w30 for the UK conditions. TBH it will make very little difference if you go a little either way, say to 10w40 or 5w30, but generally don't use the lower numbers for the higher temperatures and vice versa. Briggs engines used in temps above freezing are recommended to use a straight SAE 30 and I always stick to this here in Devon, but if in colder climates a 10w30 can be used which keeps the oil a little thinner when cold. I find that if using a multigrade in a Briggs during the normal cutting season there will be a more oil consumption than with straight 30. If you have a difficult starting engine that needs just a little more cranking speed the thinner oil is better, but keep a closer eye on the dipstick. If I am honest it does not really matter too much which oil you use, you really will not cause any harm to the engine, the most important thing is to change it regularly, i.e about every 50 hours in a mower. As for availability, every mower shop will keep it at reasonable prices. We sell Rock Groundsman at £6.00 per litre or £24.00 for 5litres. Rock Groundsman 4 stroke engine oil with the blue cap covers the 10w30, 10w40 requirements well

To be honest it was awhile ago I had the last one done and really cannot remember how much it was. But I thought it was reasonable and done while I waited. Only took a few minutes.

Haha, I used to have that kit in a previous life, but unlike Bob I simply hated making the flaming things! Halfords with the trade card for me now, but to be fair I hardly ever need one.

A very clear and concise post Johnny. I apologies if my musings were in any way taken as a slur on your integrity. Let us hope that Husqvarna can provide you with a satisfactory solution.

I would agree, if there is any fuel there to test. And if it was petrol rather than Aspen at the point of seize it may have been purged with Aspen prior to taking to the dealer if there was intent to 'leg lift' Anyway, as I said, Just Thoughts.

Cant comment on the saw Mark, I'm not a Huskie man, but its either a faulty saw, faulty operator or faulty fuel. My specialist subject is Aspen, and I have absolute faith in Aspen2 FRT, but is he definitely using FRT, or maybe has stock of the pre FRT version. If so, it wont be stale but it will have less engine protection due to lower spec oil. Or could he, like a few Arbtalkers, using Aspen 4 and mixing their own stock of oil, if so,what quality oil and what mix? Or is he maybe lifting your leg and not actually using Aspen all the time? The carbon deposits indicate this. Maybe a staff member is moonlighting with the saw and using his own 12 month old Tesco fuel with market stall oil. Or maybe the saw is being used for tasks beyond its capability, running a high duty cycle on constant overload. Just thoughts.

I certainly would never refit a core plug that had blown out. New ones are slightly domed so the sides splay a little, which gives them a sharp sealing edge and a good interference fit. As said above, they are dirt cheap, just do not take the chance with the old ones.

The problem with the very informative threads on the forum is that everyone gets carried away into thinking they have serious problems and have to do their crank bearings and seals, when in fact they seldom give trouble, and problems are often very simple things, usually only carburation. Very slight air leaks are acceptable, during a test the vacuum should be tested at no more than 0.5 bar and rise to no less than 0.3 bar in 20 seconds. The pressure test should be done at no more than 0.5bar and need only hold constant for 20 seconds. Using higher pressure or vac may induce leakage that looks severe but is in fact within limits. When you think of it a 32cc engine at WOT is moving over 400 litres of air every minute. A very small leak makes no difference. Keep it simple guys.

If I am honest the Tanaka is probably no better than the Echo in quality, most Japanese stuff is excellent and will be far superior to European built kit. The Tanaka does however blow particularly well, and spares are readily available and cheap, although seldom required. But, to be honest, the reliability of any machine is only as good as the dealer who supports it, so its far better IMO to buy a quality brand from a quality local dealer. Don't worry too much about which brand, unless of course you live in East Devon where it has to be Tanaka!

You may recall I have mentioned before that I offer my Aspen customers a recycling facility for their empties. Most customers bring back an empty when they pick up a new supply. This works well. So when a regular gardener customer popped in today and asked if he could put a few empties in my bin I said "Sure, help yourself, it has just been emptied so there is plenty of room". Later I went out to the bin with just one empty oil can and was greeted by this sight!!! Cant grumble, I did offer!

Whilst a backpack is the obvious choice for power its going to be a pain to fit in the truck. The Tanaka TRB24EAP has amazed me, sure, its the cheaper offering from Tanaka, aimed more at the domestic market, but it is compact and has the most incredible blowing power of any hand held blower I have ever tried. Even the so called 'domestic' machines from Tanaka are as good, or better, than many other brands. Worth a look? Tanaka TRB24EAP

Thanks Steve, It certainly seems fixed now. Keyboard is a mess though.

Just clean the rust off the pivots which probably look like this. Then lightly grease with EP2 or similar and reassemble.