openspaceman

In a mast year they fill out and are viable, I used to eat them but some claimed they were bad for you. Little white nuts. Wrigleys used to sell chewing gum called beech nut but I doubt they had beech nuts in them because mast years were a lot less frequent. This last summer I noticed a few beech cotyledon leaved seedlins in the wood far from any beech trees and wondered what transported them that far, grey squirrels I guess.

I'm a bit challenged when it comes to recognising social situations such that when I first saw "The Office" midway into an episode I couldn't assimilate whether it was reality and I begin to wonder about this.

Yes it looks like it had been fractured before. I guess that is weldable steel hopefully they have access to a line borer, it's doable but probably expensive. Let me know how they manage.

He doesn't run it lean; by screwing in the HI needle the engine revs increase just to the point you can hear the limiter cutting in. Enriching the mixture 1/10 of a turn then causes the motor to start four stroking before the rev limit. This way the mixture will be right at full power a few thousand rpm below the rev limit or four stroking, just as you mention. I find tuning rev limited things, like hedgecutters, quite difficult compared with chainsaws where the load can control revs more easily.

The OP is a bit far from E Grinstead; I used their euro therm seconds for my shed, they add a bit of stiffness as well as insulation, which also fends off condensation.

Yes two overlaps should be enough, I have an extension with a low pitch, about 2 degrees on my bubble meter, it has clear PVC corrugated sheets and if one gets partially blocked then in heavy rain it can dribble over. I have attempted a sealant on the inner ridge overlap but sweeping debris off (mostly moss from the adjacent roof) is the most effective. I think the PVC has 5 or more years life and if I am still around will replace with corrugated polycarbonate, like on my log store, and two overlaps.

Lucky you managed to put it out at all

Looks a good shout. As it is a street tree it will be a variety, probably magnifica.

Just showing my age, 50 years a dad today. Mitchell says there is one variety that has 2 needles but that's no excuse 🙂

2 needles, fast coarse growth and the cones tight in makes me think so too.

honey locust is gleditsia not robinia

Bark looks more honey locust

I thought a County was wasted with a Boughton. The 1NL was heavy and you couldn't skid a big log as it was too low and out the back, you were limited with what you could add as front ballast lest you broke something and I know a tale about that.. The Farmi 6 tonne was better and safer but the bottom pulley soon got bashed about so we just skidded off the lop pulley. I still have a tatty 1164 with the Farmi (except a mate has borrowed the winch and not brought it back). The original James Jones Highland Bear conversion had the 80002H winches and they were awesome but actually didn't do much better than the 40002 as they didn't have ground anchors. I'm tempted to take the 40002 winch off the 1124 and put it on the 1164 because the brakes need doing on the 1124. I can manage them alright but young people may get into a pickle. I don't know any mechanics that would do the brake job, Tom Osborn used to fit external disc brakes on his Shawney Poole dumper conversion.

Typical of a saw that's drained fuel into the crankcase and left.

Mine was fitted on the 1124 some when before 1978 when I bought it, used hard for around 40 years and still pulling on an outing today. Mind it is a 40002 which is considerably better built than the 30002 on the Holder.

Yup that's where I first remember him from but I only remembered Dinenage

Heat the tang to a dull red and straighten it. Most good billhooks seem to use a washer before bending the tang over or peening it flat.

I returned it to the owner of the saw but can get it back, take it to PM as I have a friend that travels to Wellingborough each month.

Just make sure you buy the right one as they differ between Mk1 & 2

Yeah but bmp01 is cleverer than us

Within the constraints of what people expect of a stove I cannot see much other way, Ideally one would push new logs in from under the fire. The reason the flue exit is such a narrow slit adjacent to the air wash is that the air wash is the major combustion gas, it is both primary and secondary air in a dedicated wood burner with no undergrate air. So the back edge of the air entering the fire mixes with the exiting flue gases to make sure any fuel gases have enough oxygen to burn out. The front part of the air continues down the glass preventing tars settling and then, as long as there is enough oxygen left, reacts with hot char to burn it out. This way any volatiles are burned off before the char. This complicated way of gas mixing loses quite a bit of the depression caused by hot flue gases going up the chimney, so the draw is poorer than a traditional up draught fire where air enters at the bottom then continually rises. It also means it is probably best not to reload while the are yellow flames but until the flames are purple of the char burning and open the door very slowly.

No problem using chainsaw to cut through the boards and missing the nails but I have also used a sabre saw to cut down on noise and waste.

I put the nails in a 25 litre metal oil drum, It's only half full after a couple of years but I don't get many pallets since I retired.

Nothing wrong in burning those as long as they are marked HD, KD and DB but not if painted, stained or marked MB, latter doesn't bother me a lot but... The ones with plastic or chipboard corner blocks are to be avoided too. I use a magnet to get the nails out of the ash before they jam the grate. Problem I have nowadays is they won't fit in the vitara and people don't want them cut up on site. Else happy to pick up locally

Have you put a pressure gauge in the feed from the independent pump?