openspaceman

Yes the open fire sends more gas up the chimney because the fire ejects air from the room up the chimney. This is how originally air was circulated in a mine before fans, a small fire was maintained at the bottom of a shaft and it evacuated air from the gallery, fresh air being sucked down a separate shaft. This has no bearing on whether the chimney leaks and requires a liner. As far as I can see, and I have never fitted domestic boilers since the building regulations applied to them: If the existing chimney passes as suitable then no building regs notification is required to make use of it again and a like for like stove replacement does not need building control notification. If it is a new installation or converting an open fire to a stove then it is regulated by building control. HETAS installers can self certify their own work but not anything fitted by others. New flues liners or stoves now require the fitting of a carbon monoxide alarm.

Less heat but higher temperature, the excess air from an open fire increases the mass flow and dilutes the combustion products' temperature.

That makes 3 of us using about the same in similar stoves evenings and weekends. I really must get some insulation stuck on the inside of these walls because I think I'm losing over 2W/m2 per degree C and it will save some chopping.

Yes I made some way back from the brown glycerine sludge left over from esterification of chip frying oil and sander/arbotec dust from a wood carver. I used a sausage stuffing machine to extrude them but the result was turd like and not very firm. If you think about it glycerine is is used to soften sugar icing rather than bind it. They burned alright but there is a problem in that if the combustion goes oxygen deficient aldehydes are given off in the flue.

I've had my Jotul 602 since 1979, it has done me well. I now have a problem, after burning out a couple of side baffles a few years ago I replaced them with a cut up drain cover, recently I noticed a lack of heat and see I have over driven it so severely the top baffle has erupted like a volcano and spews flames straight up the flue, new part ordered. Temporary fix in place with kaowool.

Yes and I think our parquet floor is imported american maple, which one I don't know.

Yes but I preferred to park up with a near empty tank and regularly flush out the water drains after having a machine stolen and left running after crashing down a plantation.

This can open a can of worms. The most recent recognised court precedent seems to indicate that you need to have been trained and be competent to a level 2 as described by the judge, level 1 being a lay person and level 3 a fully qualified professional ( NVQ 6 or NDF grade), but you must report only within your knowledge range. If the tree needs a further inspection know your limits. It sounds like you will meet the level 2 requirement but a much higher standard of reporting will be required of a corporate land owner compared with the owner of a rural woodland. It will be professional indemnity insurance you will require and there are lots of gotchas in PI insurance, you must time limit your advice. Many inspection regimes seem to require a 3 yearly thorough inspection, don't let this cycle determine your liability. In the event of a failure the court will look to see if you have been negligent in your advice, and this will extend to advice you have given which is apparently unconnected with the failure. Any proven negligence and the judgement will very likely go against you and then the PI will come into play and the company loss adjuster see what he can avoid paying, the balance becoming a personal liability. Tree inspections seem to be regular business but the majority of potential failure symptoms become most apparent in September to November period. All the above my personal opinions only and I'm definitely not qualified to speak on this subject.

A hot bath is about 42C, 50C is too hot for most people to hold, thermophylic bacteria work to just above 70C, keeping compost at this temperature for an hour kills 99% of pathogens and makes seeds non viable. As I said this is far short of ignition temperature in most cases.

I'm deeply saddened that she was in this vulnerable position, only slightly older than my granddaughter it seems. If the tree involved is where I worked out from Google streetview then there were signs of corineum canker but does this ever affect rooting?

Tell me how a 66C bit of wood can spontaneously start to burn? There are other factors involved, most of them human. There are two mechanisms I can think of whereby a fire can start spontaneously: the first is in the centre of the heap where the thermophylic bugs have effectively dried the wood from their activities, the vapour being carried away with CO2 from respiration of volatile solids. Then if there's just enough oxygen present and some resin or oils ( freshly exposed creosote is one) then the heat of oxidation could form a localised hotspot that starts pyrolysis, char formed would then burn at about the same temperature (200+C). There are are records of discarded cotton rags used with linseed oil based paints spontaneously burning in this manner. The other is more esoteric and to do with the way marsh gas burns (Will O' the Wisp) but I've never witnessed this. There must be others I'm unaware of. The problem with piled woodchip is there are enough pore spaces to hold primary air to continue smouldering even when the heap is thoroughly soaked and sealed from outside air.

This depends on the type of card, some work on a pool price and some on pump price. You will find people will tend to favour pumps that give points, BP garages for instance give nectar points but tend to be 1p/litre more expensive than neighbouring garages. Also gangs will travel further to a garage that gives their favourite points. If you have more than 50 users I would enforce mileages being put on the receipt voucher as this can flag up problems if analysed unless you are intending to hand out tax free perks.

Agreed (I used a cuple of nails to keep the lid on and ammonium sulphamate which helps compost the stump:sneaky2:)

Yup a worthwhile bit of targeted marketing

It doesn't blow off, when it reaches pressure it cuts the power to the 2kW motor, as pressure drops the switch cuts the motor in and stalls the genset. I still think of it as new :-(

Yes my mistake there, its =Pi()*5.6^2, paste that in excel to get m2 and then divide by 10000 to get to ha. That's a fair crop, better than what was planted on Kilvey Hill in 69.

My 4kVA genset actually won't start my 2kW compressor unless I start from an empty air tank.

I'll disagree with you there, the only reason the bore cut is above the fell cut is because the saw clutch cover has to clear the bottom of the hinge in order to take out the the middle of the tree that the bar cannot reach from the back. Not only does the retained bit stop the tree from falling it also pulls a long sliver from the butt when it goes. When I started ash up to 15QG was more valuable than oak of the same size, for sports goods and before hurley sticks were heard of in Sussex and Surrey. Ash was the species famous for what is now called barbers chair where the force necessary to bend and break the hinge exceeded the tearing of the fibres. A bore cut lessens the bending force of the hinge without weakening it because the hinge works on the principle that wood is most strong in tension if the hinge is correctly sized. If the tree sits back the tension on the front of the hinge prevents the tree going over backwards before the hinge fibres have a chance to bend, if it tries to go sideways its mostly the tension on the opposite side that holds it up with a significant contribution from the compression of wood on the side it is trying to go. That leaves it to bend the fibres in the hinge and topple until the gob shuts and the momentum snaps the hinge in tension. So taking out a bit from the gob face in the middle of the hinge doesn't weaken the hinge much but for a given width of hinge it lessens the force necessary to bend it significantly, in the same way Matteck advises a hollow tree has not lost significant strength till 30% of the wall thickness remains. So with high value hardwoods, especially ash, using a bore cut aided felling. We also used a shallower angled gob which otherwise would have closed too early and potentially split the stem coupled with thinner than the recommended 10% hinge to maximise saw timber. Incidentally if you consider the fell cut coming higher above the bottom of the sink you will see that as the fibres at the back of the hinge have little resistance to separating that the hinge has more height within which to bend the fibres often giving a bit more control. The trouble is if there is any spiral or sloping grain you need to keep the fell cut as close above the bottom of the hinge to make sure all the fibres in the hinge are working for you. Get the fell cut below the gob and the sloven pulls fibres from the tree rather than the stump, again ruining timber. As to using the bore cut to fell bigger than twice the operating bar length have a look at the attached graphic of an idealised cylindrical tree and consider how far a bar that is 40% of the trunk diameter has to be pushed into the gob, the limiting factor tends to be the front handle of the saw, so it makes sense to pencil in the buttesses and make use of flutes to make sure of severing all the central fibres.

Yes this is 0.1ha as near as makes no difference I worked this above, I make it 0.862 see my last post there are 10,000 cm2 to a m2

8607cm2 is 8607/(100*100)=0.8607m2/0.1ha=8.607m2/ha 8.60*8.34=71.7m3/ha

Past my bedtime but I suppose this depends on what the variation in top height is Per hectare? That gives a form height for NS of 8.34 and CP 9.11 8.34 times 86.07 equals 723.08m^3 norway spruce 9.11 times 86.07 equals 784.10m^3 corsican pine

OK as long as crane has closed cenre hydraulics and load sensing Very poor view point Self powered Heizohack with remote control fed by separate grapple loader makes sense to me.

You are right, that is what the form height does, so at 18 metres the volume per ha of true cylinders would be basal area times true height but because trees have different form factors either side of a cone the actual volume for norway spruce would be basal area times 8.35 not 18. There are a couple of ways to do this, easiest is to get a tariff number for each tree by running its height off against its dbh on one of the charts. The arithmetic method requires you to convert the basal area at breast height from your plots into a basal area per hectare. Then using your top height read what the form height is. As volume is area times height you then multiply these two numbers to give a volume per hectare. Please don't ask me about relascopes as I've had a 40 year mental block understanding them.

Yes, what heights do you want to compare, at 10m its 3.9 and 4.31, 18m its 8.35 and 7.64 I can probably scan the lot tomorrow.

I'm sure a modern 14-18V one would be fine, back in 85 my 12V one just managed to cut a 3/8 hose before being flat but still better than a hacksaw.