openspaceman

I don't understand this; if the tree is growing the measurement would decrease, if it is leaning more it will increase

What about the water? scots pine is about 1tonne/m3 green but abies less.

faster than I expected, if you let me have the weights and dates I can plot against my drying points.

That's not quite correct, they give out exactly the heat from the amount of electricity fed in to them, in a closed system, like a kiln they move heat from the humid air that circulates past the cooling element and dump it back into the kiln after the water has been condensed out. With a small domestic dehumidifier that's only about 150W of heating effect and even in room temperatures they'll only condense 10 litres in a day. To move the water out of the wood you need higher temperature and lots of circulation.

That's more to do with them being operated near stall. The boats on the makita challenge drive round a 600m water course on one charge, though they tend to use 4 drills. Its down to gearing and 50 metres will only require a few Watt hours.

I agree with BigJ. To make use of the natural condensing you'll need to increase the temperature difference between your warm moist kiln air and your cold sink and use a heat recovery ventilation unit to avoid dumping warm air.

We had much the same problem with our heath burner, it moved about 100 metres/hour. I got fed up with the tirfor so decided on a wheel motor from an invalid carriage, gearing via a camshaft belt. Never did get it finished as funding disappeared when English Nature was emasculated. I wouldn't mind betting that with suitable gearing one of the 400W 36V Lion drills would do the job.

Unless it's covered by their position statement on virgin timber they have waste exemption T6 but you only have 7 days to process it and then 3 months to decide what to do with the processed waste. Whilst you may register the exemption it will be invalid if the use of the land does not comply with the planning permission.

Also see if Glyn at qrms does them

To get the same heat out of 1/8th of the wood BigJ would have to be wasting 3/4 of the heat in the wood he currently burns and I don't believe that to be the case. The rocket stove was originally conceived as a stick feeding fire to reduce some of the losses associated with stick tending a three stone fiire and allow a bit of separation between the sticks and the pot to allow better consumption. I assume a high mass one is to allow the mass to absorb heat and release it over a longer period than the fire is burning. Most of us using logs want to fill the device as few times as possible and to allow primary air control to modulate the power output rather than constantly adjusting the fuel feed into the device (chip stokers do that admirably).

It's not ideal but there's enough give in the grab movement to compensate, on rough ground the boom and grapple could fall off the load which is why you see in practice people hold the boom up and crowded in to the cab when in the rack and over the front when travelling loaded.

Yes and it was standard on Highland Bears, the float on the main lift ram was by holding the spool down (I used a spring some had a detent). On double acting rams you'd need to dump both sides to tank as you say because of the different capacity on each side.

That could be as much as 44kg of softwood at 20% mc which will release 176kWh, so how long would that take and how much heat stays in the building. You can treat the stove as a black box with wood and air as the inputs and flue gases as the losses, so you need to know the temperature of the flue at the point it is of no further benefit to the house. If it has an insulated chimney then for practical purposes this is at the flue exit into the chimney but with a masonry chimney heat may still be absorbed and slowly released through the chimney breast into the dwelling area. Ideally you need to know the CO2:CO ratio as an indicator of completeness of combustion and the oxygen remaining in the exhaust to work out the excess air That's too many variables but your 0.8m^3 of solid wood will be around 320 kg of oven dry softwood or 400kg at 20%, about 1600kWh, say you burn that at 75% efficiency which gives an average of 7kW continuous. Assuming 85% efficient oil burner that should be delivered by 140 litres of oil. The thing about most stoves is that the heat exchange area is limited to the sides of the box, it's easy to over drive them by making the box hotter but this leads to higher losses as the flue gases are dumped at higher temperatures, a boiler is more steady as it cannot get above 100C and if it has a accumulator and thermostat it can absorb more heat without significantly increasing the flue temperature.

So did I, then 8 "managing" until the boss didn't think I was very capable of that so decided to do do it himself ;-)

In the old days they made deer leaps to let deer into a park and not out, I did the same for a 5ha plantation but built the ramp at one corner so I could drive the odd roe out.

Pissard plum or P cerasifera id you're management like Gary. I thought second sycamore

That's a real bummer, best wishes for the future and do take it easy

The rollers have motors, air won't get in there as it will only get in on the suction side between the tank and the pump, so the pump shaft is a likely culprit.

I thought the st6 only had one pump, an 11cc/rev gear pump with an outrigger bearing, if the outrigger bearing fails it puts a radial stress on the pump and they cannot stand that. If so it could suck air.

On the old firm our tr6s were prone to leak at the filler because people would fill them up to the top line in the sight glass. I found it best to have the oil just visible when cold. Oil expands when hot but also if contaminated it can foam, the bubbles increase the volume so it overflows. Apart from getting in through the cap as a result of breathing hot moist air which then condenses it can suck air past the oil seals on the shaft. In very cold weather the depression at the pump inlet can be very low as it tries to suck in cold viscous oil. So warm the oil up a bit before you rev up. Dowty type pumps can destroy themselves very quickly from sucking a vacuum as the self compensating aluminium blocks on the side of the gears walk themselves into the steel gear. If the machine is running ok I still wouldn't change the pump, even though it may be a bit damaged . Does the hydraulic tank have a drain bolt? If so I would leave it a few days with no use and then drain off a few litres and let that settle. We killed a couple on the TR6s, one under warranty, but that has tandem pumps for the tracks, only one of which runs the rollers IIRC, cost £460+VAT so a single one should be cheaper

If it still has warranty best do as they say, else check pressure and if it runs OK I'd leave the pump. If the oil's in date and hours I'd be tempted to separate out the water and re use it. How did water get in?

As long as the holder wasn,t affected on the Awhi and Plaisance I kept them until there was no carbide left but you do need to stop and check frequently as the steel wears very fast once the carbide is gone.

The link to the advice was in this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/cranes-mewps/100520-working-basket-telehandler.html#post1477693 read also AA Paul's comments after mine and BTW I do have a certificate for CS47 There have been a couple of prosecutions recently from people falling from telehandlers one was with a man cage and the chap wasn't clipped in the other was when the pallet he was standing on slipped off the forks. Now I know and trusted our telehandler driver but with the nosy parker next door taking photos it's not something I'd risk in public view. HSE have successfully prosecuted roofing contractors based on such 3rd party evidence.

It's not a lawful use of the telehandler under LOLER unless the machine fully qualifies as a MEWP because it is preplanned work

Yes but is there no recourse when it looks like someone has caused the problem by having bonfires next to the tree, apparently on a regular basis?