openspaceman

Looks like a repurposed ammo box with a 12V winch built in to it.

It is a shame you are so far away as I would buy a few logs from it, sizes seem just right for me, I would need to rethink storage and seasoning.

Poor mutilated old cup rack, I wouldn't be surprised if it turns its toes up. The previous reduction has hidden the symptoms of decline and probably worsened it, I doubt the ganoderma at the base would have killed it but imagine some other pathogens have got in and developed over a fair period.

So in practice what are the length variations on your? How heavy is it? Is it available to buy my side of the water?

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Most of the water in a green log is simply filling the wood cells and is lost relatively easily if the surrounding air is low humidity and it can migrate out of the wood to the surface. As air becomes warmer it can hold more moisture as vapor, so warm dry air can remove a lot of moisture wheras cold 99% RH air can carry no more. Once the moisture content falls below about 25% all the free cell water is gone and the remaining water is lightly bound to the woody molecules. This water is a bit more difficult to remove but as it is lost the wood shrinks, a bit like the way copper sulphate holds waters of crystallisation, if you heat it this is driven off and the colour changes from blue to white. The other thing, as @BillQ notes, wood is hygroscopic, once it is below 25% and only contains the bound water its moisture content rises and falls a it reaches an equilibrium with the ambient air, so in a wet winter it will re adsorb water to up to 17% if it is cold and humid and in a hot summer it will dry down below 10%.

Yours shears through 7"? I would be quite happy with one that cut up to 4" if the length were no more than 9" for small stuff and at least 6" for 4" stuff.

Nicely done, I make my own handles too but much cruder than what you have done.

I still cannot see why it should produce different length cuts. I had thought it would always cut the distance two blades are apart. Can anyone explain why?

I think I would pass a chainsaw file across that inner beak, little at a time, until it was right but not too close to the edge. it doesn't have to be razor sharp.

Will it be that the fuel pump has to be recognised by the ECU?

Makes no sense to me best go back in the box because I don't want to have to spend time working your meaning out.

Not much has changed in 35 years then. I had an early one from Gordon Hoy when he made them in Devon. He got the basic drawing by projecting a photograph and getting the basic dimensions from that but the proportions for the rams meant the crane didn't hackle as well as the original. The main lift ram was single acting but the quality of materials must have been lacking as to vent the small amount of oil that seeped past the seal there was a small hole at the top of the stroke through which there was a spurt of oil if you went to full lift. Because the main lift ram was over sized it could lift a lot close in, probably good for arb work where you just wanted to get big logs off site but the lack of coordination between the functions meant productivity wasn't up with the Cranab and FMV I owned (and still do), not helped by the cheap and stiff spool block.

I can see some sort of rubber protection around the cables in the second picture but cannot make out the layout of the cables. Back in the day I when I was employed by a firm that regularly did bracing we attached the cable to eye bolts or screws into the branches or stems. That way the tree was not constricted as it grew in diameter. I know synthetic hollow braid rope is used now as it accommodates the growth.

I'm not sure satire has ever changed politics, after all our quasi democracy depends on committees that have their own agendas to select candidates. I saw how flawed american foreign policy was in my youth and it has only got worse fifty years later. Not being a fan of their politicians at all but this seems to show some americans realise what they have done. Heaven help the Taiwanese now, they don't have rare minerals the americans want.

Interestingly cheap. Their blurb says "Oregon Full-Skip Chamfer-Chisel Chain" yet the spec says Oregon 91PJ057X which is just a low profile??

Yes but if it is fresh chain oil rather than the used motor oil that Cyril used to issue us with I would expect the scrotal cancer to be unlikely but dermatitis isn't pleasant either.

Stubby has said much what I would except it has lightly seized from looking at the marks on the piston and rings with the skirt being clear. Ideally a replacement meteor piston and as Stubby says do not fit gudgeon pin circlips with tangs, reuse originals.

If you suspect the overheating may have damaged the piston and rings take the exhaust off and check their condition, a photo would help.

We have a fair amount of it on the common as it reverts to woodland, picture from a walk a couple of days ago. It never seems to get bigger than 2” diameter stems, which is why you would struggle to get a lot of charcoal out of it.

@shavey??

Nor me but I was buying tungsten carbide tipped mulcher teeth rather than chipper blades. It strikes me chipper blades need to be a fine balance of tempering between being hard enough to maintain a sharp edge without being brittle enough to shatter.

We had the first tracked forst 6" and I only used them once or twice, I was impressed with the feed compared with the older timberwolf 150 and greenmechs . Apart from teething problems, I remember loose hoses and blown fuses, they seemed to be okay up to 300 hours but I got sent out to pasture soon after that.

Stress control saves the engine from stalling and keeps the flywheel speed up (which also reduces blockages). Nothing saves the sudden shock of the blade hitting the first bit of wood , other than perhaps reducing the blade protrusion from the flywheel. It is that bite of the blade that flexes the flywheel toward the anvil.

I've not done laths but I wonder if a course is necessary, the business of splitting/riving is straightforward. We were just presented with a stack of chestnut rounds and told to split and point them for stakes. After that thinner stuff, especially hazel, is a doddle. Choosing your wood is the key. The skill is in selecting the bit of the tree length to cross cut for the product you want. Look on a tree as being a bunch of short straws, all overlapping and glued along their lengths with a glue that is weaker in bending than the straws are. When you start a split look at where it is running from the wedge, billhook or froe. If it is running downward turn it over and press down to direct the force to stress the lower glue line. Always push downward to make the split run that way. Always half each cross section till you have the required size. a quick search and this shows the basics https://youtu.be/WB4aZS8xmNE