openspaceman
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Everything posted by openspaceman
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Yes tolerant maybe but not thriving and plainly showing deficiency symptoms yet WRC are doing fine. The site is an SSSI so a bit restrictive with what can be done, when planted it wasn't so.
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I was extracting on a chalky hillside today and took this photo of a Corsican Pine (I think) you will note the yellowing of chlorosis but it is hanging on amongst the dying ash. I noticed one other corsican in the block so my guess is they were planted in mix with beech in the middle of last century. I expect there was a planting failure of both the beech and the pine and ash took advantage. The beech have subsequently been hammered by squirrel damage but elsewhere on the site is some very nice western red cedar. The ash is badly affected but there are individual trees that show remarkable resistance. Because of this I was keen to remove as many of the plainly dying ash in winter 2019-20 in order to reduce the spore load but this was not done.
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The manual will be online as a pdf on the greenmech site else I could email a copy this evening
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I don't know, how are you going to keep it small, bonsai techniques?
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That would probably not allow the root system to entrain enough soil for stability if the tree is allowed to mature
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Cockspur
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That's right, all the time heat is cheap the extra capital cost is prohibitive unless done very cheaply. Also the higher the temperature of the kiln the more worthwhile it becomes, Have a look at the simple plate heat exchangers that are in discarded condensing tumble driers. The thing about these is they recoup some of the latent energy in the warm saturated air which is significantly more than the energy in the hot air itself. The trouble is the massflows of fresh air and exhaust vapour don't match so unless the kiln is hot and you have something you can use the lower grade heat for.. . What may work would be the kiln inside a poly tunnel full of wood waiting to go into the kiln, so a modicum of dying from the larger massflow of the condenser heat exchanger is usable
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Just look at the size of soil pits used in urban planting in surfaced areas of development sites often 3ft deep and 15ft diameter for "forest" species. As to rooting depth this is a picture of a 25 year old thorn I have just pulled up from my garden, ignore the ivy that came up too.
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... or a good investment?? Money and value are amusing concepts. Whereas the most of us aspire to own things we can use I'm sure some people derive pleasure from the knowledge that their wealth prevents others enjoying it, a sort of schadenfreude. The recent discussion on housing costs and subsequent revelations of pandora is a case of how supply and demand are skewed by investment opportunities. A finite housing supply that is attractive to inward investment drives up prices, price increases driven from demand from home desirers and foreigners wanting a safe investment means rental income is less than capital gain, so properties left empty.Then purchase the property by a company registered elsewhere and you avoid UK taxes too, a double whammy for the UK resident.
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easy enough to check the soil pH with a test kit. Also iron sulphate will drop the Ph if you keep an eye on the level regularly.
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I think most pines like slightly acidic soils, which is why scots pine invades our lowland heaths which are sandy and low Ph. Would you consider western red cedar?
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Still no explanation of how the wear occurred, was it initially from pulling the saw when it was jammed and subsequently from the outer rotating in the case? A couple of hours in the machine shop would cost nigh on £200 hereabouts
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It will do okay for several years but once it gets big enough for the roots to be affected by the chalk the foliage will turn a yellow green, this is lime induced chlorosis, it is actually a deficiency of iron caused by the high pH. When I started work scots pine were often planted as a nurse crop with beech over chalk but the intention was always to sell the pine as pit props by P25 and let the beech go on to make the main crop. Best made plans of miice and men gang aft aglay.
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Yes I was referring to ground work, motor manual vegetation management. Ten hours on a machine is standard and the harvester driver I worked alongside would regularly do twelve and if he was bored do a bit of a late shift too, as he lived in a caravan on the job.
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I agree with you and constantly advised against 12 hour shifts as being less productive but was overruled, mostly by managers who would kip in their cars and claim the shift. In general it was because the client was willing to pay for a 12 hour shift rather than two 8 hour shifts which would have got twice as much done.
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Hydrogen is a small molecule and escapes from most containers (It's one of two molecules that Brownian motion can boot fast enough to escape earth's gravity) so it's best not stored. Electrolysis isn't the most energy efficient way of splitting it from water but the surplus, intermittent supply is what makes it interesting. Combining it with syngas from biomass to make a cleaner burning diesel fuel looks interesting to me but I have no idea of the economics. The excess carbon then being re interred.
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Back then one could allegedly drive a Hilux straddling the rail with one set in the cess and one in the four foot during a possession instead of having to tab in with all your kit, things changed.
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Let's see if @se7enthdevil responds to this. Not being a wood turner or workbench sort of person but I'd say the centre of the work piece should be at your elbow height.
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I only came across a spark arrestor on the drill, if the Stihl hedge cutters have it it must be in the silencer, I've just gandered in my HL75 with a torch and there is none. If the exhaust looks oily just heat it up off the machine to burn it off.
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Oddly enough my neighbour is having his hedge cut by an arb firm, mob handed, 5 blokes three trucks and a chipper. I can hear the hedgcutter on its high limit all the time. I found the problem worst on the BT45 drills which were lovely machines for speed but would frequently block their spark arrestor in the exhaust with oily gunk. The lads would muck around with the mixture screws as they didn't understand why the engine was running rough yet the remedy was simply to remove the spark arrestor and burn off the muck with a blow torch. Even though I modulate the throttle on my hedgecutters to suit the load I find the exhaust has an oily build up yet the chainsaws never do because they run full throttle with the load setting the revs.
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This can depend on the engine. Hedgcutters, unlike chainsaws, tend to work on high idle a lot, as they often have rev limiters which cut the spark they can have a lot of unburned fuel escaping and the oil can condense out in the exhaust.
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Can chain oil leak into the crankcase if the crankcase gasket slips on this saw?
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How clean does it need to be? To my mind an annual sweep is to knock the build up of soot off so as it cannot support a fire so a bit of a cover remaining is not significant. A neglected chimney is a different kettle of fish as it could be close to being blocked with soot at some points ( I have seen a gas cowl used on a pellet stove so blocked the boiler room filled with smoke.) Similarly a tarry deposit from burning wet wood is going to be hard to shift.
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I have this kit Big Button Lock 12mm Liner Kit Flu-Flex Rods – Chimney Rods Direct WWW.CHIMNEYRODSDIRECT.CO.UK Expensive at over 200 quid but seems to work well with a cordless drill. I have used id with 5" liner and a 9" concrete lined chimney. I remove my stove and register, tape ply to the bottom of the builders opening and run 2 vacuum cleaners into the opening while I am working, with dust sheet over the top gap and rods fed in under that. Not really worth it to save £45 but not having to wait in for the appointment suits me.
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We did almost exactly this but started at 0800 and just 3 tanks after lunch and home. Machine driving was different and breaks shorter but the machines were uncomfortable, no glass, no heater so two artics extract and load and homeward. I haven't driven a modern machine with air conditioning for 15 years but the only reason to have a break then was boredom really. More recently doing arb groundwork, as two old men, a half hour break in the morning and 3/4 to an hour break at midday then crack on to finish by 3-4.
