openspaceman

Sap is carried up the sapwood, nutrients that feed the roots travel down under the bark so ring barking will kill the tree but not necessarily make it dry quicker. Sour felling is where you fell the tree in full leaf and then don't immediately sned it, so the leaves continue to transpire and lose moisture from the stem

You naughty boy, go and wash your keyboard out with soap and water

Good luck and proper recovery means doing nothing that might tear the ongoing repair, never picking up high weights again is a start, let the fit people do it without straining.

This bears some thinking about; Dean says his genset only runs for an hour or so daily, it's 30kVA so he loads it with his current use in the buildings, recharging the battery and heating water. Presumably he has it for a high peak load. Either way it is such a short run time that doesn't suit CHP which tends to need high occupancy and a long run time to justify capturing the waste heat. As such it strikes me CHP needs to be working at an optimum load to give the best conversion efficiency to electricity. Nowadays this probably means running asynchronously AC and rectifying to charge a battery bank and an inverter running current loads. It's modern inverters that hold the key to this IMO as the IGBTs (insulated gate bipolar transistor) are so efficient with low resistance and capable of switching high voltages. Once you get up in the 10kVA plus range I think you are bound to fall back to a diesel using rebated fuel or a spark ignition engine running on gas. @Peasgood it may be worth considering one genset for when the workshop is used sized for peak startup loads and a much smaller one for when the house is occupied. I'd still like to investigate smaller chp systems using Stirling and smaller still Seebeck CHP devices once the solar isn't performing and heating is needed in the winter months. My battery only buffers one day's electricity usage so some sort of generation is needed to free me from the grid and the expense is not (yet) justified. I get the impression @Dean Lofthouse and @Justme simply have no access to the grid.

I agree on all points but it's often the fact that initial extra cost will never be recouped that militates against installing room sealed. My house is quite draughty and with solid walls so not well insulated and cutting through the wall and then 6ft of solid floor is not to be lightly undertaken.

Thanks for chipping in Dean, is the battery lead acid? That's 15kWh to 50% DoD. You don't make use of the heat from the genset either then?

I would go for room sealed once the stove needs be over the 5kW threshold for providing an air vent. Lots to like about the Burleys but I doubt I'll need to buy another stove.

There have been lots of suggestions to try out and I cannot add anything without seeing the saw but I do have a donor 266 with most of the engine bits (mice ate some of the plastic parts as it was put away with vegetable oil in the tank) if you are close.

Is this the one, like my grand daughter's, which has three air controls, a slider underneath for secondary air and sliders on or above the door for primary and secondary? I have never played with the controls but it is so different from what the Burley has, as described by @Stubby. Conventional wisdom is that the primary air is necessary for burning coal, a primary air control is part of the control on my Morso 11 but as it is never used because I only burn wood the airway gets blocked by ash.

@aspenarbwill know but often American hydraulic machines used JIC fittings, same thread as BSP but the cone seals are reversed from BSP. Also they tend to use a lot of tapered thread fittings.

Yours is room sealed isn't it @Stubby? I.e. all the combustion air id from outside and no air from the room goes into the stove? Is that bottom leaver what controls the air and is that full open when over to the right?

Bentamat is an alternative to clay and plastic liners though plastic geofibre is part of it.

I imagine they put a gear pump with an outrigger bearing to run off the auxiliary belt but if it's sucking air in its toast

Is it a gear pump? Could the hose burst have lost so much oil the pump ran dry? When the pump aerates the oil so much that the foam comes out of the breather it often means air is being sucked in at the input shaft bearing

Early November I bought 25ltr red diesel in a drum at the pump and had to give my registration, home address and proposed use. I could have lied about only the use as the car is registered at my home address,

Yes and a fair sized load in the trailer

What;s your youngest 42 year old bike then? I so regret selling any of my old bikes.

I can't help with the adverts, site costs money to run, Don't worry about posting something you have missed, sometimes it's not possible to keep up with every post in a thread.

@neiln said much the same but didn't elucidate, I gave an example of why it may be. Impractical in my case as the hot air would go straight up the stairs. As I said I first tried just sucking warm air through a flexible pipe from over the stove and blowing it into the next room but it didn't work, the air didn't get much warmer than 25C and the next room was too cold such that the radiator was needed. It is only since I changed, this summer, to the set up in the picture above that delivers 40C air into the room that it was able to keep both rooms up around 20C and the rest of the house around 17C when the temperature is down to 5C outside. So far this year the temperature has only been below freezing at night for three or four days. Today it was 17C outside and still 14C now but I lit the stove, at about 17:00.

It's Andrew mate 😉 I was more worrying that the duct might melt or worse. I'd be fairly sanguine about temperatures below 100C but wood repeatedly exposed to higher temperature actually becomes easier to ignite even it it started out dry. We had the example of a kiln catching fire when the operator put the same load through two drying cycles, this was because the heating tubes were hot enough for the radiant heat to get the wood up to 200C even though the convected air in the kiln was only 120C. Because the kiln had some scraps off wood (sawdust, bark, splitnics etc). that had been in the kiln for many cycles some of these had darkened and as a result absorbed the radiant heat well and the surface charred. Nascent charcoal catches fire at just over 200C. As the temperature rose quickly because the dry wood was no longer giving off moisture a fire took hold. My fan is 10ft away from the stove and draws the air out of the convection vents via the two flexible exhaust pipes and then into a plasterboard duct before it reaches the fan. If the drying room is fairly well sealed and a bit above room temperature, say 25C, then I found an dehumidifier worked well and was gentler on clothes and boots than other methods. Nowadays, as I don't come in muddy and wet, we leave the drying cupboard doors open and seldom switch the dehumidifier on. Sounds good, I hope you have plenty of DPM and insulation under the screed the pipes will be embedded in. I'm not overly keen on heat pumps yet because of the capital expense but a ground source heat pump under or next to a stream could be another matter as long as it's not meltwater at 0C.

That's right in terms of fan power requirement because the power required to move air is directly proportional to the volume of air moved against the resistance. The volume of cold air has more mass than the same volume of heated air but to benefit from this the cold air would need to be ducted all the way around the stove and into the duct serving the next room which, in my case at least, is impractical and the electrical power required is a small fraction of the energy delivered by the fan as warm air. Fine as long as the warm air is not allowed to get too hot. Yes and there is an effect, the Coanda effect, that shows if you discharge it horizontally from a flat nozzle it will hug the floor for some distance before it starts rising, not something I have tried yet. Yes and with mine I think it delivers the same heat as a 6 by 3 double radiator which we used previously to heat the room. Do you have a dehumidifier in the drying cupboard?

Yes they just happen but if there is a "cost" to the living thing in growing the appendage then then others without that mutation will out compete them. As we see this in generations of elm there is likely an advantage but what it is I haven't a clue.

I cannot see that being a problem, even if it were you could reduce the fire size by putting a couple of firebricks on the inside of the combustion chamber. In my case because all the hot air coming out of the convection ducts gets routed into the other room, if the fan is on, the stove doesn't put so much heat into this room I use as an office. My arrangement passes air at 40C into the other room via a duct constructed of plasterboard and sealed. My only worry would be if the air were any hotter than that. I have a thermometer at the outlet and have never seen a higher temperature. Mine also vents into the other room at floor level.

It would because those TEG ones are less than 1W. The inline centrifugal fan I use is 6" 150W but I use it on the lowest of 4 settings. I had it previously as it powered my 100kW vortex burner and saved buying new. Similar to this Vent Axia 150mm 6" In-Line Centrifugal Duct Fan (SDX150) | CEF WWW.CEF.CO.UK Motor Insulation Class B protected to IP44

I dreamt of getting one of these and I think they were still in production then, in the 70s. The reality is I was never going to grow a business to support all the kit I wished for.