openspaceman

It looks like it was hit very hard to break a cutter, the other cutter in view is too blunt to cut. It reminds me of using steel wedges to assist getting a trapped saw out when the tree sat back ☹️. Should be easy to make 3 good chains out of 4 with 6 presets and tie straps. It looks full chisel in the picture

Hmm about 75 foot pounds of muzzle energy

Yes it is usually possible to press out a bent tie strap and preset or even replace a bent drive link or cutter. You can do it with a centre punch, hammer and just the anvil, with the correct slot to fit the chain. It's often not worth the effort if the chain is half worn. Rivet spinners are a bit better but need a good initial tightening so the rivet is firmly home before spinning. If the rivet is spun over too lightly it just mushrooms the head and leaves the joint weak.

I agree with Stubby, if it starts easy enough with the decompression button in use it, it takes strain off the starter mechanism.

I would not worry in a woodland setting, apart from the loss in production but you have answered your own question; the tree is compromised to the extent that arching limbs may fail, especially after fresh damage, it is not a tree of good form and it is not a tree for a garden with limited space.

That's what I did back in the 80s but kept snapping the line

Are they still legal? I have the remains of one in the loft which I bought as I was lousy at throwing a line into a tree. It didn't work well and got put away.

Is this surprising given the price america exacted for winning the war in europe, not to mention owning Japan.

Tetanus shirley

Yes but that would be retrenchment pruning rather than retrenchment , which is a natural process.

Deadwooding which can apply to any tree.

You are the one with the higher education, precis it.

I'll kick off; retrenchment happens when a mature oak tree can no longer support a full crown due to some outside influence. It allows major scaffold branches to die back from the tips whilst it supports new growth lower down, forming a secondary crown from adventitious buds and epicormic growth. The tree becomes stag headed. We often see this in pasture where cattle or horses have poached the root area. The central roots of large veteran trees will often die because the soil has become anaerobic by them, this is the start of hollowing as mostly saprophytic fungi eat out the inert heartwood over many years. I assume retrenchment pruning is where the dead branches are cut off, which probably involves cutting into some live sapwood as appears to have happened in this case, as some shoots have sprouted from by the cut branches. They appear to be live, I presume they did not retain leaves that died in the summer, so it will be interesting to see how they flush this spring. The change in soil levels and hydrology may well have started the die-back. The tree has a reduced sail area and a functioning root system so I see no reason to be especially concerned from the information given and shown. I take it that if the tree dies naturally the TPO becomes void? and no replant condition?

I did, it had 125k miles on it when I picked it up and 305k when I handed it back.

OTOH the £3000 it cost in damages could well have been worth it to him as long as the thing that remains doesn't sprout.

I think they are left high before removal to avoid trip hazards.

Looks like a repurposed ammo box with a 12V winch built in to it.

It is a shame you are so far away as I would buy a few logs from it, sizes seem just right for me, I would need to rethink storage and seasoning.

Poor mutilated old cup rack, I wouldn't be surprised if it turns its toes up. The previous reduction has hidden the symptoms of decline and probably worsened it, I doubt the ganoderma at the base would have killed it but imagine some other pathogens have got in and developed over a fair period.

So in practice what are the length variations on your? How heavy is it? Is it available to buy my side of the water?

edit required

Most of the water in a green log is simply filling the wood cells and is lost relatively easily if the surrounding air is low humidity and it can migrate out of the wood to the surface. As air becomes warmer it can hold more moisture as vapor, so warm dry air can remove a lot of moisture wheras cold 99% RH air can carry no more. Once the moisture content falls below about 25% all the free cell water is gone and the remaining water is lightly bound to the woody molecules. This water is a bit more difficult to remove but as it is lost the wood shrinks, a bit like the way copper sulphate holds waters of crystallisation, if you heat it this is driven off and the colour changes from blue to white. The other thing, as @BillQ notes, wood is hygroscopic, once it is below 25% and only contains the bound water its moisture content rises and falls a it reaches an equilibrium with the ambient air, so in a wet winter it will re adsorb water to up to 17% if it is cold and humid and in a hot summer it will dry down below 10%.

Yours shears through 7"? I would be quite happy with one that cut up to 4" if the length were no more than 9" for small stuff and at least 6" for 4" stuff.

Nicely done, I make my own handles too but much cruder than what you have done.

I still cannot see why it should produce different length cuts. I had thought it would always cut the distance two blades are apart. Can anyone explain why?