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WorcsWuss

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Everything posted by WorcsWuss

  1. I think it depends on many things. I do believe though that proof of nptc certs for the relevant units can still get you a saw from some places. It's quite clearly shown on the site that they don't mail order. Their prices are keen but you should be able to persuade a local dealer to get close. Have you had a haggle yet? Don't tell Justin but I bought a little Stihl a couple of weeks ago from a local dealer for less than Jones' were advertising it
  2. Wrench shouldn't touch the hitch at all On one of the tethers I made it wasn't stiff enough at the top and when ascending, the wrench would pivot backwards towards neutral from where it connected to the tether, then when the knot set the wrench wasn't quite engaging and sat back very close to the top of the hitch, only by descending a couple of inches did everything settle into the right place. A shorter hitch cord helped and I made a new tether about 2" longer which I made really fat up under the wrench so it couldn't easily pivot about the tether. I just enjoy tinkering! Yours doesn't seem to have any of those problems
  3. Give me a shout later on mate and we can arrange something
  4. Ain't that the truth! I recently did an outline planning application for a building and the planning officers kept banging on about the window style and lettering on the shop fronts.... IT'S A BLOODY OUTLINE APPLICATION FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!:banghead:
  5. Looks cock on to me mate This is probably blindingly obvious to you but the way I check mine for length is when checking the hitch is set, push the pulley up the line so that the tether ascends the wrench then yank it back down to set the knot. If there's a reasonable gap, couple of inches is plenty for me, then it's right. If the wrench is touching the top of the hitch then it needs tweaking... If the wrench droops back into neutral a bit more heat shrink at the top of the tether does the trick for me.
  6. And tomorrow I get to give it all back to them to clear my credit card and half my overdraft. :laugh1: Only another £231,425.00 left to clear everything and realise my few simple dreams (all of which include an engine ) I'm a man on a serious mission now
  7. Crikey! So after receiving my ppi offer letter on Saturday I phoned Lloyds this afternoon to see if i was reading the letter right and accept whatever thy wanted to give me.... And blow me, I checked my account this evening to find they've paid it in straight away! Looks like they didn't want me to change my mind!
  8. Then your LA (assuming in England) are doing it wrong. You only 'apply' for a tree with an existing tpo or covered by an area tpo. Any tree over 3" dbh in a CA needs only to be given the chance (6 weeks) to be protected. Anything else you can do as you please.... Unprotected trees in CA: (from planning portal) Notification of proposed works to trees in conservation areas In conservation areas, notice is required for works to trees that have a trunk diameter of more than 75mm when measured at 1.5m from ground level (or more than 100mm if reducing the number of trees to benefit the growth of other trees). You have to give your local planning authority six weeks’ notice before carrying out work on trees which are located in a conservation area but are not yet the subject of a tree preservation order. This gives the authority an opportunity to consider whether an order should be made to protect the trees. When to use this form You will normally need to contact your local planning authority (LPA) before any work can be carried out on protected trees. The LPA is usually the council to which you pay your Council Tax, but where the tree(s) are in the Broads Authority area or a National Park you should consult the relevant Authority. Protected trees include those covered by a tree preservation order (TPO) or those which grow in a conservation area. You will need to contact the LPA even if you wish to prune branches overhanging from a neighbour’s protected tree. You should send one copy of the completed form to your LPA. • TPOs - If you wish to carry out work to trees protected by a TPO you must apply using this form. Your application, and any subsequent appeal, will be decided on the basis of the information you provide now, so it is worth getting it right at the start • Conservation areas - You must give six weeks' notice before carrying out work to trees in a conservation area that are not protected by a TPO. You may use this form for this purpose or you may send a letter or email, which must still include the information required by the form. This gives the LPA an opportunity to consider whether a TPO should be made to protect the tree(s)
  9. :lol: don't burst a blood vessel Dave! :lol:
  10. :lol: of course, what was I thinking :lol:
  11. It was only a matter of time! :lol: Question is, what 'kit' did you get? Was it a slimmed down version within our magical budget figure.....?
  12. :lol::lol: I actually quite literally lol'd!
  13. Sorry, good point, figure of speech.
  14. Was it a section 211 notification you made? As I understood it when I came up against it recently in Cornwall (Mr Dodds will correct me if I'm wrong) in a conservation area, to fell anything over 150mm diameter (?) at something like 4' from the ground a section 211 notification has to be made, which tells them that you intend to carry out works to a tree in a conservation area. The TO will visit and look at the tree and if he doesn't want it felled then he issues a notice informing you that the tree is getting a tpo put on it and not to touch it. If no tpo is placed on the tree then you can do what you like to it. So, was it a 211 notice for a tree in a conservation area ..... or an application to fell a tree covered by an area tpo? Which would explain the 'refusal', and in which case, probably best not to touch it!
  15. That's how I understood it when I was talking to a TO recently....
  16. Steve. How did you come to be using the I'd for tree climbing? Is it something you have from other aerial work or an impulse buy? A brief read of Petzl's technical notice goes along with what Rupe says. You almost have a conventional SRT system there, just add a foot pro onto the hand ascender and a pantin on your other foot and you're away. That would get you round your limited upper body strength... It's very much IRATA kit by the looks of things and not something I'd really like to use in a tree (but then I have a thing for cord...) Where in the country are you?
  17. That's what a proof of posting is for, and what Petzl appear to be saying is that so long as you have proof that it was dispatched then you'll get your refund, even if it never reaches them. Presumably all they will do is use them for destructive testing so they have no resale value to Petzl. I always ask for proof of posting when I ship stuff I've sold on eBay if the buyer doesn't want to pay for recorded.
  18. Now that's a beautiful thing! What year is it? My boss has a 1991 907ie, great bike, top flight components. The start of their comeback.
  19. Just the job You'll want a sling and a couple of biners to attach the rider's harness to the tandem pulley, I guess a 1m nylon loop sling will stop even the tallest riders from getting their hair tangled or slitting their throat on the wire rope..... You'll need a buffer/damper at the bottom as well to stop you ploughing into the tree, a nice long stiff compression spring slid over the rope secured with cable clamps will do the job. A rubber donut at the open end wouldn't be a bad idea to stop the pulley from being damaged when it hits the stop. Unless you go for the rather uncomfortable arse/floor braking system of course.....
  20. We have been installing a system in university halls to replace storage heaters into the same location. We did a trial floor in Manchester and proved a saving in excess of 60% and fitted 650 of them in Luton last summer. I'll pm you my details and if you want to give me a call I can give you some more info and put you in touch with someone you can buy them through who will give you a decent discount....
  21. Looks decent enough kit, don't whether it's expensive or not though...? I'd say you'll want a coupe of pulleys & a length of cord to tension it up initially, there's less than a foot of pull on the two turnbuckles together. What were you thinking for a carriage? Either way, sounds like fun!
  22. I haven't used the Sky Walker because i chose the HC. There's no doubt the HC is a more versatile piece of equipment but certainly I don't use my Rapide for anything like it's full range of uses. That's partly because it is my primary life support rigging plate and I don't want to compromise that so it's used exclusively for slack tending. I do like the cranked side plates of the HC which make for a flat rigging plate, rather than the more conventional angled swing cheek design of the SW. I don't really see that either is better as a simple slack tending pulley though.
  23. I did actually try to claim on mine at one point. There was no way I was getting a penny! After that I never took it again. Turns out I was right not to!
  24. That's what I went in on. Comical really thinking about it. I remember having a conversation with the bank manager about it so it wasn't like they didn't know I was self employed!
  25. I think you should shape it and put it to good use. Am I aloud to say 'mangina'......?

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