10 Bears

This is not a problem at all - in fact this is the preferred outcome. Trees actively compartmentalise, that is they attempt to seal fungal pathogens in a box inside their structure. This is what the tree is trying to achieve by closing over the wound. I don't agree, - there would likely be many other signs as well that there is a problem with the tree eg crown dieback, large limb death/fall etc. As you identified earlier, the tree is otherwise healthy which means it has the capability to deal with this little problem. You have also pointed out that the heartwood remains solid, so infact still affords the tree structural stability. To be honest, I would avoid putting chemicals in to the environment without any sound understanding of what I was putting there and what the wider implications of the chemicals are. Overall what I think this situation comes down to is your personal appetite for retaining the tree. It appears that you are looking for justifications to fell the tree, and I can understand this to a degree as you are aware of the full implications of the site and the tree in its location. Ultimately though, you will have to decide if you want to keep the tree or not - your choice based on the information we have given.

No I haven't, but if I get my hands on some lump wood coal I will give it a burn and let you know. I would guess that I would get a long burn out of it in any case as the long burn is caused by an enclosed fire area with series of pre-set air inlet holes, so there is a long smouldering (a bit like firing charcoal itself).

A good point, although do you really need to BBQ for 2.5 hours often? Not unless you are entertaining several guests I would think. I do like this BBQ in principle - but still think you can use a Sw. candle for the same job as possibly you don't need such a long burn time. All that said, my Mother bought me one of these for christmas and I have to admit it is fantastic. From just 8 briquettes, I have had a burn time of 5+ hours which was enough to do a full chicken sunday roast - all whilst camping! Sometimes you just can't beat a bit a luxury... It is definately a 'base camp' piece of kit, but well worth it IMO.

You can use a swedish candle for exactly the same purpose as these once the candle is well alight. Cant see the benefit in adding a cavity to add coals/briquettes if your log/candle is dry enough.

She was not forbade from having, nor expressing an opinion, but in light of reasoned argument, scientific research and even common sense, her opinion is very likely to draw opposing views from others. That is the nature of opinions. When you put them out there for others to hear, see or read, then you should expect that the other may not agree with your point of view. It is my opinion for instance, that this woman's view is ridiculous.

Hello Jeff, Being a forum you are bound to get several opinions, but I will try to be a little more informative if I can. I have seen this exact situation several times before on the same species of tree - so I believe it is relatively a common situation. Firstly, to review TreeTiger's comments. I don't agree there is decay per se - least not in a way that will effect structural stability. There is however, obviously bark necrosis ie the dying back of the bark. Yes, as suggested on 'the other forum' this could be as a result of mechanical damage eg strimmer/mower/dropping bricks on the area etc. but I don't believe this is the death knell for the tree. As you can quite clearly see, there is a cambial regrowth/adventitious root that the tree is putting on in response to the damage (from the images I prefer that it is an adventitious root rather than its trying to occlude the wound - this would also match what I have seen in the field). Trees are self-optimising structures, so, if the tree is otherwise healthy and has a full photosynthetically active crown (can't see from the images), it will be able to compensate for the damage at the base for a good period of time - probably even outlasting how long you live at the property. TreeTiger suggests 'probing' the area. I agree with this to a degree, but be careful. Please use a blunt object - or simply your finger, to press into what you called the heartwood to periodically check for excelloration in decay of this area. Don't use a sharp metal point as this can further damage the exposed wood and actually provide entrance points for fungal infection at a later point. Obviously the exact opposite of what you want to happen. As you say in your post though - the wood appears to be structurally solid, so it will continue to hold the tree up (in normal conditions) for a further period of time. This is combined with the fact that the tree is trying to assist itself by putting on the additional support root, so again reinforces my opinion that the tree is not near its immediate end. As you have used the $$$ symbol in your post, you are possibly in the US (or Canada or Australia), so I am not in a position to comment further on your questions regarding the effects of different insects, although as a side note Black Ants ie small black common garden ants, are known to assist broadleaf trees by attacking smaller sap sucking insects eg aphids, that cause damage to leaves on trees - so perhaps killing your colony was not the best move? Pure conjecture on my part though, as I don't have enough information. Regarding a fungi question - have you seen any fruiting bodies or other signs of fungal ingress? If not, I suggest waiting for your 'fungi season' to visually check for fungal fruiting bodies and attempt to make an ID. There are many guidebooks and of course the web - but you may also want to employ the services of a professional (or even post pictures on here!). Then when you are armed with further information ie is there really fungal ingress that would accelerate structural decay?, then you will be able to make a more informed decision about the tree's future. In the US, you may also be able to employ a 'Plant Health Care' specialist to treat fungi - but again, only if you know what the fungi is. So, in the meantime don't rush to fell the tree as in my opinion there is little to be alarmed about. Get more information about what is going on with it, then you will be able to make a more sound decision. All the best.

Now thats a comment I've not heard before!

I use the same approach as PC Treescapes - but your proviso Hodge, is a good idea. I may have to start using that myself, but to be fair, Ive not had any jobs poached.

Elspedo - if you get to do this for Woodnicer, I will be happy to give you (in detail), the methodologies I was referring to earlier in this thread. Just let me know if you need them.

Local commercial tip?

A fool sees not the same date that a wise man sees...!

Dave - I have various contacts in the area, other then the ones mentioned above, including some excellent Forestry crews which may well be more suited given your course. PM with your contact details and I will pass them on. Incidentally, you will have a great time at UoC doing Forestry. I did it myself a number of years ago at the old Newton Rigg site - excellent times...

No problem - it should help you out and save you a few bob...

God help me!

I have a great set of Draper Expert that have had loads of abuse and are still excellent tools. There are other posher sets of course eg Teng - but the Draper Experts also have a lifetime warranty. The Halford Professionals are an exact copy of the Draper Expert.

elspedo - as a remote student, you will be able to loan the books via post i.e. they will send them out to you, and then you can inevitably do a renewal on your loans via your on-line hosted library account. I'm not suggesting you keep the books indefinitely, but you will likely be able to keep them for longer than a week if you need. As Logrod says, you *will* have access to online journals etc through your Uni. Probably through the Athens or Shibboleth systems - just contact your uni library (or look on their website) and ask for help with this, but its usually very straightforward. I have personal experience with UCLan/Myerscough and the University of Cumbria - are you attending either of these? If so, I could give you a bit of help gaining access. Just let me know where you are attending and I will guide you through - perhaps PM me for this?

As I understand it you should never pressure wash caravans for the reasons you state eggs, that is, that they will inevitably suffer water ingress at the folded aluminium seams. (am I really discussing the virtues of washing caravans???)

This sounds altogether like a new business, entirely separate from tree work etc that I assume you do already. I wouldn't offer this as a service from my existing company - I would set up again as a new enterprise meaning that you get a new set of tax allowances etc. Strictly speaking you could hire equipment from one of your companies to the other eg the use of the 110 hicab, as it can't be an asset in both businesses, but this can just be a paper exercise. If you think you have a market for this then go for it, but I would have a word with the accountant to make sure I get the best deal for tax allowances and discounts etc.

Forgive my innocence here - but what else were you considering other then driveways? I'll understand if you want to keep your cards close if you think you have spotted an untapped market.

Or they thought that there was someone in distress waving to get the attention of the crew. Seakings work on Search and Rescue (SAR) - so perhaps waving at them is giving them the wrong signal e.g. help, help, I'm a careless tree chopper and I've done myself a bad turn...

These...

Stoatally - there are several threads on here about different online courses, take a look through those and make your mind up. The most common college courses are run by Myerscough and Capel Manor (although other providers are available!) What do you want from it? Do you have tree knowledge already? Do you want to be able to do more in the industry then just chop? If so then a college course is probably your best bet. If you just want to be another cowboy who doesn't know a Quercus from an Acer but is more than happy to 'chog it down' - then just do some short courses (CS30, 31, 38, 39) and you can be a bona fide 'chopper' in a month. Personally speaking though, I think the industry has far too many of the latter - particularly young guns who are all brass and no brains. Just my opinion, mind.

My trimble GPS with a duel band antenna couldn't get a signal under a canopy like that. Have you seen the woodland Joel?

Just for my own interest and the fact that I like to have a crack at things like this, I believe that there may be a way to ID the locations of the Oak trees purely from the image, using a code I have written. It works in a trial, just with some random blob colours, but Id like to have a go at using this on your woodland image. The thing is - I need to know exactly where there are confirmed Oaks in the image, so these can be used as training data for the 'search' for other Oaks. So - did you get out to your woodland and confirm their locations or not? If you did, could you please circle on a copy of the screen dump some of the tree canopies that are definitely Oaks, then I will take it from there...

I dont remember that scenario on the training course! I skipped through the video as I didn't need to see it all to get the idea. Poor lass, her distress was really clear in her shouts towards the end, and the article says she was there half an hour overall. Not a nice experience for her, but don't they say a true artists suffer for their art?