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tree-fancier123

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Everything posted by tree-fancier123

  1. tree-fancier123
    From google - wild service , the base of the leaf is much flatter than the specimen in question, also Johnson and More describe the fruit as brown
  2. tree-fancier123
    good analysis and thanks for the links - one entry that gave me pause for thought A self-employed arborist was working alone felling a large fir tree in a private garden. He was found with multiple injuries at the base of the tree, without a harness or other protective equipment. He never regained consciousness and died four days later in hospital. Never 'free climb' trees. Always ensure that your means of access is secure. There should always be at least two trained climbers for any tree work involving access by rope and harness. I agree with the comment about groundsmen being at higher risk than climbers, - know someone knocked unconscious and off for a month when the climber didn't shout 'below'
  3. tree-fancier123
    Nice logo and site, however accreditated is not a word. 'The South’s most trusted and dependable company of accreditated, professional Tree Surgeon and arboricultural specialists'
  4. tree-fancier123
    I have been tempted to modify a set of chainsaw trousers ( cheapo ones with hi viz stripes that really look the part) by simply removing the duvet quilt bit and just wearing the outer fabric, purely for use in summer where some busy body could be thinking of a sending a photo to HSE - typically passing LANTRA assessors etc. On my first cocky day with these modified pants I would be bound to end up in casualty, the doctors stitching me up during a blood transfusion 'you silly man'
  5. tree-fancier123
    it would be good if there was a site that documented all arb accidents due to climbing equipment failure, so you could see if a trend emerges. There was a magazine article posted on here of a US guy, firm owner, who let his crew use his rope, then when he went up it snapped and he's paralized and wheelchaired, as they had damaged his rope and he didn't check it. He said always run the rope through your hands end to end at the start of every climb. The one day he was rushed and failed to do this caught him out.
  6. tree-fancier123
    a replacement bridge for my Komet Butterfly is 13.45 +vat, rather just spend that
  7. tree-fancier123
    Also Yale Poison Hi Vee, or Poison Ivy. Apparently not the same stuff as in the states, but my one from Honey Bros is much better in the ZZ than 13mm XTC plus. Poison Hi Vee was marketed as two ropes in one - supposed to be ok for SRT too, it's all I have when I try out SRT, maybe too bouncy for the purists. Will buy some Cougar next - a short rope, fed up with 45m and 60m in small trees
  8. tree-fancier123
    not directly related to this new rope tech - but as a novice climber I nearly always find when I take on a job it takes longer and end up rushing, so the topper chain I'm sure is responsible for at least some of the frays on my rope when I'm repositioning and the saw is high clipped or dangling on the strop. It occurred to me if I can't sort my ropes out it would keep the ropes from being snagged by (stationary) saw chain if I had a scabbard with me in the tree to put on when I need to clamber to the next bit, maybe on a bungee or something. Maybe ok if I'm not in sight of any pro arb crews
  9. tree-fancier123
    Shear bolt? So you dispensed with the idea of a clutch and the whole chipper disc has to turn when it's being started?
  10. tree-fancier123
    ok - interesting they were doing other ag engineering before chippers, wasn't trying to knock the company, jus playin. It was a silly attention seeking comment to make and I'm sorry.
  11. tree-fancier123
    SAE Bell Housings Made Easy! | Foley Engines
  12. tree-fancier123
    nice recon Perkins to go with it Perkins 4236 Recon Engine Jcb Fork Lift Massey Ferguson Tractor Dodge Boat | eBay this is how Greenmech started, just buying bits and bobs, then slapping it together
  13. tree-fancier123
    that is quite scary, that a small set up could damage someone's house or car, thinking the insurance will cover them, and during the claim the insurers ask to see loler certs for the lowering ropes £90 is a lot of money though
  14. tree-fancier123
    it's in the same category as having a worker to run the ropes and clear up who doesn't have climbing tickets, just don't do it, unless you want to as the lombardy fell incident proved , all the acreditations, lolers, tickets etc won't always guarantee a trouble free time
  15. tree-fancier123
    wish I could get a nice shape like that acer, can't call mine crown reductions yet - just trimming for now. Just right weather for tree work this week, can't stand the summer heat. The customer wanted the two smaller stems right out - I did say the more big cuts the more chance of fungal spores taking hold. I have seen a huge beech in the woods with a two foot stem torn out in the gales massive tear out wound and still going strong.
  16. tree-fancier123
    ha ha
  17. tree-fancier123
    if your rope is less than double tree height and you come down from near top - tie a stopper knot in the tail end so you don't descend off into mid air. Make sure not to descend too fast on a rope prussik you will burn it out. And keep an eye on the rope below you - if your nearing the end and still some way off the ground find a convenient place to stop so you can stand on a branch, secure with lanyard, then re anchor your rope over a lower branch and continue down. Minimum size for an anchor point is supposed to be wrist thickness at the top - be warned though trees are organic and it is not risk free at all - a climber on these boards failed his assessment because his anchor point broke! If you learn on some smaller oaks first it will help - metal figure 8 device can be used to abseil down cheap and saves burning your prussik loops - these prussiks should be 10mm dia approx for a 13mm climbing line
  18. tree-fancier123
    figure 8 stopper knot in the tail end
  19. tree-fancier123
    this rope if you're serious about having a go - dont forget to read the book too its not long Yale XTC Plus 25m 13mm Climbing Rope 1 Splice Tree Surgeons | eBay book THE TREE CLIMBER'S COMPANION ARBORIST GUIDE TECH BOOK | eBay you must have a lanyard to remain attached when you are advancing your climbing line - or a net below
  20. tree-fancier123
    it doesn't say the rope is partially severed in the listing it only says retired, i just meant to run it through his hands end to end to check its not nicked, sorry should have spelled that out. Before i did any courses i went up 70 80 foot oaks in the woods - i did spend a few quid more on gear than he is intending and also read Jeff Jepsons tree climbers companion - to the original poster - get this book its only 12 quid. Seriously dont ever try up a dead tree, and if you can afford to invest in a 13mm arborist rope e.g 25m Yale XTC plus all the better
  21. tree-fancier123
    here's some rope - probably wouldnt break if its not nicked (partially severed) seller just covering themselves Retired Indoor Climbing Rope 10.5mm | eBay this is an 8mm prussik loop MARLOW VIPER PRUSSIK LOOP 50-60-70CM - heat resistant | eBay you could just use a short length of the rope as a non adjustable lanyard for when you reach a branch to change over and throw your main rope (with carabiner on end) above to the next branch. death or glory
  22. tree-fancier123
    so you made a mistake as a jest, feigned ignorance, wish I hadn't posted my comment now Sugoi 360, like the thrift element, sharpens up ok
  23. tree-fancier123
    I thought it was Gomtaro? No?
  24. tree-fancier123
    sounds like you only just made it there! a barber chair on spikes doesn't bear thinking about - was it a leaner? could you have used a bore cut? what are things to look out for that may not be obvious? How would you do the same job next time around? - don't say sub it out
  25. tree-fancier123
    yes - I realize simply firing the bigshot over the top (or out through the top) of a congested crown, pulling the line up then just snapping out the twigs with a quick bounce and ascending will never be 'best practice' - 12 feet fall wouldn't do climber or gear much good.

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