Joe Newton
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Everything posted by Joe Newton
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Because he bought it knowing the tree was there, and assuming he parents weren't related before marriage has the common sense to know that trees occasionally get bigger?
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Cheers bro
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That'd be sweet if you could. Gonna make one for one of the lads at work. Got the main part spliced but it doesn't retrieve well like yours.
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Got any more photos of that, Jesse?
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I'm the opposite, I've recently gone from 11mm velocity and blaze to 11.5mm Tachyon Not sure if I like it. Feels bulky.
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Fair enough, but you're a tree bloke, who knows and understands this. Many folk might not even realise, but most would be open to discussion at least.
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And just to run salt in its wounds he'll be filling the back with mushed up trees!
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Likely, so discuss it with the property owner and reach a compromise. If one can't be reached reasonable cut it back to boundary and live with it. Or move. I'd be apoplectic we're that my tree, and I'd make sure there were repercussions.
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I have used my velocity line with zigzag and Spiderjack. The zigzag was jerky on descent, since the rope flattens quite easily. It's made for a SJ/LJ though. Superb tending and descent. If you want to use a ZZ I'd go with 11.5 mm like Tachyon
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First video attempt and first 100ft plus climb
Joe Newton replied to QuattroKev's topic in Video forum
Decent job. It's rare to get a big tree that can be dismantled that easily. To be honest even if it could have been felled the tidy up would have taken longer. Only criticism (if it's welcome) is there's no need to cut away from the stem and then trim stubs. Your groundies will thank you for not having to pick up the extra pieces. -
I know. Despite myself I'm genuinely pleased for the bloke. Damn.
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"No I don't"
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It's probably not helpful in the slightest, but I'm not just taking the mick here. I bought a scrap (seized) 357, and sent it to Spud to fix and port, for less than what you bought the Stihl for. The build quality is lacking in the non pro ranges, and I can't help but feel like the type of problem you're having is less frequent on pro saws. If you're not relying on that one saw then I'd just get a refund!
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This is so much more entertaining than Breaking Bad. I'm getting popcorn.
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I'm right though! Doesn't matter, it's relative to requirements. Fwiw if you were nearby I'd try and help:)
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Yeah, but a better saw would be best,
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Looks normal. Chains will get got and dust will collect. Drive links look clean. Toughen up, Sally. Go cut some wood!
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Sounds like B&C tension is fine. Run the saw full throttle or not at all. 2 strokes ain't designed to be feathered.
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Torque setting is tight enough to keep it on, not so tight as you strip the threads. How tight are you running the chain. This is an unknown quantity that can affect bar lubrication.
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Should've bought a 560xp Ah that felt so good!
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Like I said, if it's regularly pumping oil at full revs the saw is fine. Check that the oil hole in the bar matches up. Make sure the oil hole is clean. Fair enough for wanting to sort it yourself, it's how you learn. Any stihl dealer is obligated to fix it for you if it's under warranty, though they may not prioritise you if you didn't buy from them.
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That's the answer really, if it's not working as it should, send it back!
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Okay, I'll try and be helpful, although any smug remarks coming from SawTroll are justified. Take the sprocket cover off and rev the saw. Oil should come out of the slot regularly. If it is doing this then the saw works fine, it's a bar problem. Either a blocked bar hole or it's misaligned. Oregon bars have larger oil holes.
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Still pleased with your deal?
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Darren's one is decent, there are plenty more here: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=22472 I spent a lot of time and effort splicing mine: Then I decided that for the money I'd rather have a Ropeguide. It works so much better than my homemade one, without the niggling doubt in my mind about my splicing capabilities.
