wisewood
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Everything posted by wisewood
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just been catching up on all these new posts, you've been busy mate:001_smile: A great mix of work:thumbup1: Si
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I only lasted a minute before getting bored. I had no idea chains could get that bad. Hope he's on an hourly rate:sneaky2:
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There's some great additions on here since last time I looked:thumbup: Not sure if I've put this one up before, been watching its decline for over 15 years. One of many monoliths at Coombe Abbey Country Park, Coventry. Was there yesterday and snapped this one.
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Sound advice Alec, thanks mate, I'll have a tinker when the saw turns up:001_smile: Si
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It's to be a bit of an all rounder really. I've a ripping chain for the big bar, so do a little freehand squaring up for carving, but will mostly have it on an 18" for blocking out. I've a long to get list, milling attachment being one of them, just need to make and sell more to fund it:001_smile:
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Lol, what Spud says:laugh1: I still don't own a mill mate but it's on my to get list. I've a 36" stihl bar (not sure which without checking). I'd assumed 'cos it had the replaceable nose I'd have to clamp below the joint thus losing about 6 " of length. Si
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Hi, would have loved to go to that, next year hopefully:001_smile: The tool Bob King is using is probably a Trogholer (not sure on spelling). This link shows a new smaller version and Bob was certainly after one.http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaw-carving-forum/42120-new-piece-kit-horizon-if-you-have-money.html The other tool could be a die grinder with a circular bit or grinder/sander bit attached. Cheers, Si
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Fair do's mate, I guessed you must have found a way round it. I didn't mean to suggest you didn't know what you're doing,you clearly do. I was just curious as to what you'd done in case I needed to do the same. Cheers, Si
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I'd love that but I'm miles away
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Hi, in pic 2 I notice you've clamped the bar on the replaceable nose. I've a 3 ft bar with the same tip and was wondering if it was ok to do this or would it risk damaging the sprocket? Cheers, Si
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Yes that's what I was thinking of. I was also thinking if carving the tree at a cut branch was a no no then the same visual effect could be achieved by gluing a pre carved face to the freshly cut stub. The tree would still callous over and claim the add on much like bone does with tungsten.
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£30 doesn't seem too bad. Is that based on per piece or an hourly rate? I would imagine it's much quicker than sanding and it's a one tool sands all rather than having numerous power sanders. Be interesting to see how well it carves wood.
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This looks suspect Stihl Chainsaw Boots Size 9 And New Chainsaw | eBay
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So long as you include the mincing about in the price:001_tongue: That's pretty quick, about a weeks work then. I'd have guessed at maybe 2 weeks work, I must faf around a lot more than you. I'll have a look at Argos, been looking at pop up gazeebo's to carve under, rain or shine.
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That's a great idea doing a vid for the buyer. Good freehand routing and I like your spray tent. Will have to watch again when the lap top speakers decide to work. How many hours went in to that start to finish? Si
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Hi Eddie, what's the cost of sand blasting mate? Is it your own gear? I've seen some hire shops do small ones for hire. Never done but results look great. Si
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well said, some very interesting projects could come from engaging with you all and as you say it's a common courtesy. Clearly this person assumed permission would be denied:thumbdown:
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Hmm, I've often wondered this too. What about at the face of a removed limb? If it's cut leaving a stub for some shallow carving would that be an acceptable risk? The tree would callous over the outer edges would it not? Si
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Help needed to find small display stands
wisewood replied to EddieJ's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Sounds good, I'm sure the gallery will take care of displaying the relevant info, so yes just concentrate on stock piling some work. If your planning on showing 5 works make sure you've got at least 6 or 7 to choose from. In regards to the garden centre, they usually have black plastic versions of that chrome one for plant info signs. Maybe you could use those and merge with their theme at the same time. Si -
There's your answer, put on some lippy and a nice frock and get knocking on doors:laugh1: Seriously though, Andy Collins came up with a great idea of making vid. compilations of you hard at work to aid getting interviews with tree companies. You could do the same and send to targeted businesses/councils:thumbup: Si
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Help needed to find small display stands
wisewood replied to EddieJ's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
Hi Eddie, Are these venues outdoors or are they in galleries? In my experience of gallery exhibitions,the gallery normally takes care of that sort of thing, just need to give them the blurb. The chrome/stainless info stands will look great but I reckon that's a big outlay mate. If it's a group exhibition then uniformity in signage / info will work better than each doing their own thing. Having info for future sales is vitally important but don't stress,your work will sell itself. People will buy your work 'cos they love it ,not because it's accompanied by expensive shiny shiny:sneaky2: That's my two pence worth feel free to disregard Cheers, Si -
Decking oil seems to be a favourite with a lot of carvers. Think it has anti fungal and uv protection in it so much better for outdoor pieces. Bit pricey-er than linseed though, 5L around £30
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Stunning work! I can't work out what's going on with the floating balls from the pics. Are they steel or glass? Are they set inside rings? It's messing with my head:laugh1: tis very clever.
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Cheers Rob,Trollspiel, You know you're on the right track when you get great feedback, thank you:thumbup1: 'furniture of the woods' pretty much sums up what I was getting too, nice phrase mate,your past sounds familiar:sneaky2:
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Ha,no not this time:001_smile: Yeh they look a bit scruffy at the mo. The furry one's poplar so you can imagine how wet it was. Thought I'd let them dry a bit more so they don't clog the flap discs. I did get one kickback and took a slice in the base:001_rolleyes: Don't be thinking I know it all,may be I just got lucky. For anyone who doesn't know, it's just a series of plunge cuts spaced about 1/2 inch between cuts. Going in at a low angle for the first few inches and slowly raising angle to 90 to the log face vastly reduces risk of sore knuckles:001_tongue:
