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wisewood

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Everything posted by wisewood

  1. First part of this advice is terrible, do not ever consider buying a grinder disc with chainsaw chain. Usually called Lancelot discs, they are stupidly dangerous and have far less control and applications than a standard chainsaw setup. That aside, do check out www.chainsawbars.co.uk and if you're on Facebook join some of the chainsaw carving groups ,you'll get plenty of help there.
  2. Looks ok[emoji106] try it and see. A tad looser won't do any harm either. In regards to the heels of the cutters, if you set down the saw so that you can manually draw the chain around the tip( like when you're sharpening). If you can butt the tip up to a flat piece of wood at a right angle to the bar. Get your eye level with the tip from the side and see if the heels protrude any more than the cutting edge as they pass around the tip. If they do, file them back [emoji106]
  3. Thanks, yes if it's not commissioned it's for sale. Direct message me for sale enquiries please [emoji106]
  4. Latest bas relief wall piece.
  5. Not sure if they're on this forum but carvers Ian Andrews and Mike Jones both use a lot of echo saws and will no doubt know. Look them up on Facebook or ask on the fb page Chainsaw carving UK
  6. Cheers, yes wood dyes and airbrushed acrylic paint.
  7. I run mine a bit slacker, this is an r7 tip, bit smaller than a dime tip. You can see the DL drive links fully out of the bar groove/slot.
  8. Cool, depends on what you're trying to achieve with bore cutting. If it's big areas and blocking out then use a standard bar on a bigger saw. If it's small scale the dime bar will be fine. The drive links run in the groove of the bar, if you slacken off the tension until the chain hangs/droops on underside of the bar. If you can see a couple of the drive links in their entirety then that's about right. One more tip, is to file or grind a couple of mm off the back/rear of each cutter. This will stop the backs of the cutters kicking out as they pass round the narrow bar tip. It will make boring much easier and will avoid any unnecessary wear and tear on both chain and bar [emoji106]
  9. Congrats on a new saw [emoji108] what have you bought? There's little to no kickback with dime tips so in that sense bore cutting is easier and safer. Having said that, a dime tip is really just for the detailing, any major cutting should still be done with more robust bars. In regards to chain tension, I would recommend slacken off until you can see at least a couple of drive links under the bar[emoji106]
  10. Try googling "World map of chainsaw artists"
  11. You must have to be a chainsaw carver [emoji12]
  12. Just shared a world map of chainsaw carvers in a new post, take a look if anyone is nearby to you
  13. World Map of Chainsaw Artists WWW.WOODHACKER.COM
  14. Out side pieces that are not naturally rot resistant get treated with an anti fungal and boring insect preservative and then oiled. Decking oil is good, osmo uv extra is great but it's really thick and difficult to thin coat.
  15. What part of the country? It is a useful species for chainsaw carving.
  16. I think for the time being a standard set up on the 46cc would be fine. You could probably switch down to 3/8 lo pro as long as you can get a bar with the correct bar mount configuration for the saw. I'm fairly sure most 1/4 sprockets on 35cc and under are spurs.
  17. If you're in a position to buy new, chainsawbars on this forum have several complete package options.
  18. Hi Al, Do you mean 3/8 chain? Do you know if that's standard or lopro? In regards to fitting a carving bar, 35cc saw is best for a dime tip bar. You would need to change clutch sprocket to 1/4 Not sure if there's a 1/4 sprocket option for titan, you may have to make one.
  19. I've carved mini Christmas trees from 1&1/2 - 2" diameter branches.

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