tim361
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Everything posted by tim361
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Vantuner.com | A more professional van tuning service VANTUNER.CO.UK vantuner.com are van tuning specialists that can tune your van to it’s safe maximum. With ECU flash remapping...
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If you do buy a transit there’s a guy near Heathrow airport who remaps them. He did my 2003 90 and it puts the power at around the 125 mark. I bought mine 3 and a bit years ago with 52k miles from new, just rolled over to 71k. Chassis is mint still, engine pulls well when fully loaded with chip and in the three years it’s cost me around £500 to keep it on the road. That includes tyres, breaks etc....... Just trying to decide if I keep it and get the cab blown over to neaten it up or if I buy a much newer van to help with tax bills.
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As mentioned above. I have a sports massage every 2-3 weeks which helps a lot. I also bought a simba mattress about 6 months. Before I would not manage to sleep all night without waking, would go to bed and wake up stiff and achy, and would still feel exhausted in the morning. Now I’m getting a good nights sleep, sleeping all night, wake up feeling a lot better. Don’t know if all the internet mattress companies are the same but would recommend simba. You get an amount of time to try it and return if you don’t like it. And even better for me someone buggered the paperwork up and I got it for free.
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I’ve got a Greenmech with the same engine. Mine was becoming really hard to start until one day it wouldn’t do anything. One of the coil packs had cracked open and stopped working. All sorted by GM under warranty but took a lifetime to get parts from Briggs and Stratton
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It’s probably had 6-8 tanks through it. I always pick the 2511 up and only grab the 360 when it’s needed for bigger timber. I’ll give it a bit more use and see if that helps all.
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When all my kit was stolen I replaced all my saws with echo kit. My 200 was replaced by echos 360t. Biggest problem with the saw is it seems lazy while cutting. Mine has a 14” bar on it and when we were chogging down a chestnut cutting the full length of the bar the saw almost seems to give up in the cut. It’s still running the standard echo chain and bar. I’m sure I read somewhere that people have replaced the echo/Oregon chain with a stihl one which is meant to make some difference, but it just doesn’t seem to have the power to pull a 14. Anyone have any advice, apart from buying another 200? cheers all
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It’s a Laski stump grinder branded as a Major (the tractor implements) stump grinder. Identical to a Predator 450. The threads are set a long way back in the shaft so can’t damage them. The puller is breaking/cracking the edges off the pulley and not shifting. I’ve resorted to taking the flywheel assembly and guard off as one and will take it to a mate with a hydraulic press.
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Currently trying to swap the predator 450 cutting head over to a new multi tip wheel. Anyone have any advise to get the pulley off that connects to the cutting head shaft. It’s a keyed pulley so put a puller on it and managed to crack the edges off the pulley and it won’t budge. Ran out of daylight/enthusiasm so will carry on tomorrow and try again
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Exactly what happened to me, And mines still far from perfect. I’ve got the idle sorted but it doesn’t like hot starting without blipping the throttle while starting it. Id like to tell you what I’ve got it set at now but I’m scared to touch it and lose what I’ve got so far
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The full turn for the h screw and 3/4 for the l. I tried the setting that were suggested in the videos and the saw wouldn’t even fire.
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Ended up starting with the stihl settings and tuning with a tach to try and get the settings/rpms that RobD’s video says but couldn’t get it past 12,300 rpm at full chat
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Evening all. Can anyone point me in the direction on how to get these running 100%. I tried following the video that RobD did but following his instructions my saw wouldn’t even run.
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Me again. Another predator related question, I’m going to change the cutting head from the Laski teeth over to a more readily available multi tip system. Does anyone recommend one over the other for any reason? I’m planning on fitting the rhino teeth for ease of sharpening, general cutting performance, etc.... over the multi tips. Machine is 25hp if that matters with cutting performance.
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Does anyone know if the cutting head bearings on a predator 450 are off the shelf items, or specific to predator? I’ve been told be one supplier that the bearings are unique to Predator hence the £90 plus vat price for them. I’m sure they must be off the shelf items can be live anyone goes to the bother to make their own bearings
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After spending Friday ringing around no one stocks Laski teeth in the UK, have to be ordered direct from the factory in the Czech Rep. So it’s looking like I’ll either be changing over to a multi tip system, or getting the flywheel drilled to take green teeth. Probably end up getting a multi tip wheel as there’s less to mess up on my end.
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I did my tickets with Scott Fraser and would highly recommend him
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Thanks. Have a good new year
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Think it’s a 25hp machine. Just trying to find replacement teeth, the current ones are branded as laski teeth
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Can anyone recommend where to get teeth for these? It’s got something that looks like Rayco super teeth in it but Knowing my luck they’re not rayco teeth. Or is it just worth changing to a multi tip system. Been quoted £550 for a multi tip flywheel and rhino teeth.
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Thank you tool nut. Was what I was after. I’ve got a 2019 sequoia, it’s pretty comfortable but pinches my legs and squashed my balls. Seems not matter how I adjust it I can make it better but not get rid of it. So I’m just looking at options for harnesses that are more comfortable. My sister lives in the states so i can get it sent to her and she can bring it back so can save on all the shipping and import duty.
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I’m not worried about if it’s CE marked or not. Just asking more about user reviews on the harness
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Does anyone on here have one of these? Just wondering what they are like for comfort etc....
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Also got a fairly decent bike pump from amazon for £22 which is rated to 220psi
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It’s very simple to assemble. 1. Order all the pipe fittings on the list 2. Order the threaded valves and 2 rolls of ptfe tape 3. Drill an 8mm hole in the end cap and bolt the tyre valve in 4. Wrap all the threaded parts of the pipe work with 12(ish) wraps of ptfe tape 5. Screw all the fitting together and tighten, charge with air and check for leaks. The fittings can only go in one place as the bits are different sizing. Any problems PM me and I’ll help out. Im sure other people will have ways to make this better. Please feel free to add any better points to the list
