Daniël Bos

Wot he said. That does lead to the question of what conditions it's likely to be used in though, how much work does it need to do? And even a new etesia does not look as slick and shiny as a JD, wich is quite an important factor for most gardens.

Did you actually read the post you just commented on?

Someone I know has patience, she's called wikipedia and she'll tell you the following.: Flavonoids content Black locust contains flavone glycosides characterised by spectroscopic and chemical methods as the 7-O-β-d-glucuronopyranosyl-(1 → 2)[α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-β-d-glucopyranosides of acacetin (5,7-dihydroxy-4′-methoxyflavone), apigenin (5,7,4′-trihydroxyflavone), diosmetin (5,7,3′-trihydroxy-4′-methoxyflavone) and luteolin (5,7,3′,4′-tetrahydroxyflavone). and also..... The wood is extremely hard, resistant to rot and durable, making it prized for furniture, flooring, panelling, fence posts and small watercraft. As a young man, Abraham Lincoln spent much of his time splitting rails and fence posts from black locust logs. Flavonoids in the heartwood allow the wood to last over 100 years in soil.[6] In the Netherlands and some other parts of Europe, black locust is one of the most rot-resistant local tree, and projects have started to limit the use of tropical wood by promoting this tree and creating plantations. It is one of the heaviest and hardest woods in North America. I've just come back from a shearing tour of the Netherlands, and inspected a stockwire fence in very wet soil mthat I had placed about 20 years ago, using 2nd hand Robinia posts that were at least ten years old then. If hit with a hammer, they still have that "metallic ring". The sapwood is justabout all gone, but the heartwood is untouched by time.

I've phoned them this morning and told them that due to the national shortage of ££'s I've paid them in Japanese yen instead. They were quite quickly apologetic. Still leaves me to find a different supplier though, can find plenty of places with treated softwood, but any clues on Robinia:confused1:? I've used it a lot in the Netherlands and it beats any other timber I've used for fencing, including (larger diameter!) oak!

I'm after a small quantity (250) of Robinia fenceposts, does anyone know a supplier that'll get them to me (south Lincs) this week? I need 4" x 6' posts, but have been told by my "local" that there's a national shortage of 6 footers so they sent me a load of 5'6" instead. (without even asking me if I mind, wich I do!!). So if you don't know a supply of Robinia, where would I be able to get treated softwood? Thanks a bundle, Daniel

I'll take the top half of that pint then mate:lol:

It's the sure sign of a posh loader. It's the lever to de-activate the suspension. Posh loader explanation thingie

here it is, a health and safety gem. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOG-SPLITTER-WHEELHORSE-TOYOTA-SURF-4-X-4-/280678059949

I put my billhook through my fuel-can (wich admittedly is made of some different sort of plastic I think, but has to deal with much higher pressure) and managed to fix it with a combo heat and balertwine (the orange kind). I first smeared over the crack with a red-hot knife (and later learned my wife would rather I didn't) and then kept melting balertwine on it, shaping it, melting, shaping etc until I was happy. This has worked just fine for two years now.

Would you be better off with one of those "local" numbers, there is a way of having a local area code in a different code area than where you are. I've not yet decided wether or not I like this practice (as you effectively con people into thinking you're just around the corner) but it's likely to be much more effective.

It has it's very own shire!

Interpunction would make it clearer, but I would say Bedford?

awesome! how about this kiwi one?

I found deer that browse trees like that usually do so because they try to balance a deficiency in their system. It's normally a lead deficiency:lol:

That's what I go by if times are tough and there's custom, If it's part of a private garden, you can pretty much do whatever you like....

depending on the species and the size of the stems it may be a bit more tricky then when it's dormant. The bark sperates a lot easier at this time of year, so when you bend over the pleachers and they're cut a bit thick, the bark lifts and tends to crumple a bit. The key is to have the cut a little on hte long side so the "bend" has a larger radius.

I'd say poplar?

I lay hedges in winter and shear sheep in summer, but have swapped the two around before now. I have a friend who lays a stretch of hedge every midsummer's day (21st of june) to prove it can be done. In the 12 years or so of him doing so there's not been any detrimental effect. The hedge recovers a bit slower than it would in winter, but as you reduce the leaf area as well as the stem's "flow-capacity" it is normally ok. As far as the law is concerned, I believe you're not allowed to cut hedges when there's any chance of birds nesting. If you can't talk any sense into your customer, make sure you charge him at least double as you're the person breaking the law, "he told me to do it" holds no power.

"Benjamin was excitedly waiting for his first "Humberside Sushi Bar" customers"

Stump Grinder! That would clear it in a jiffy.

Found this from 'tinterweb In order to make mechanized planting economically viable, the present spring planting period of Norway spruce (Picea abies (L.)) seedlings in Fennoscandia needs to be enlarged. To evaluate the possibilities of enlarging the planting period, seven field experiments were established in the course of 3 years, during which actively growing or short-day-treated seedlings were planted regularly from the beginning of July to the middle or end of September, depending on the experiment, and also the following spring. The survival of seedlings differed between experiments, but the planting date had an effect only in the experiment where seedlings were planted on a mounded site with no short-day treatment before planting. Seedlings planted after mid-July were more susceptible to damage from night frosts. Seedlings planted in July and early-August had greater root egress and growth in height after the planting in comparison to seedlings planted after mid-August and during the following spring. For plantings in July, actively growing seedlings can be used without negative effects on their field performance. In order to avoid possible frost damage, short-day treatment is recommended before planting for seedlings used in plantings performed in August and later in the autumn. ScienceDirect - Forest Ecology and Management : Summer planting of Picea abies container-grown seedlings: Effects of planting date on survival, height growth and root egress It appears to suggest planting at whatever convenient time of the year, but with differing techniques according to planting time.

there's a current thread here, user experiences so far, not good.... http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/training-education/29036-mobile-phone-app-can-identify-tree-its-leaf.html

Who you gonna call? Ghostbusty's!!

when I was 15 (an unknown number of years ago) I was cycling home (in the Netherlands) in a hurry to beat the onset of a summer rainstorm when out of nowhere the oak I passed got struck by lightning and a 60-70cm dia branch came off. It was the only thing for two miles around that was higher than me, I am in debt with that tree.

Mine stays up really well, is clear to read and gets me extra customers, definatively recommended!