agg221

I don't work in arb, but I do do a lot of pricing, sometimes on very large jobs (several £M) so thought some ideas might help. Firstly, separate cost and price. Cost the job first - how much will you need to pay other people, fuel (for kit, but don't forget your fuel travelling to view the site), chains, any hire costs etc. This gives you your cost. Then think about your own time - setting up the job (liasing with client, council etc and don't forget travelling to view the site), doing the job and any finishing up (returning plant, disposing of arisings etc). Decide what you want as a reasonable return on your time. This gives you a starting point for a price. Then decide what you think is a reasonable price. Your costs are fixed, your rate is 'reasonable' so if you discount below this it's because you are getting something less tangible out of it (e.g. building a reputation, potential for good publicity etc, although be careful as you don't want to build a reputation for having a lower price than you can sustain - that's how you go bust, so if your costs are low because you called in favours, consider adding enough to the job to cover you if you hadn't). If you add more to it, this is 'super profit' which is quite legitimate, but requires skill to judge, based on experience of what a job will stand. I wouldn't worry too much about 'spoiling it for others'. As has been said, we live in a largely capitalist freemarket economy. If the state fixes prices, that's called communism. If a group of people get together to fix prices in a particular sector, that's called protectionism, which is illegal. You are free to charge what you want and if you're operating legally but your overheads are lower than someone else's you can afford to undercut them - that's business. In the end, the gut feel to go with once you've come up with a figure is to imagine yourself losing the job and think how you'd feel about it. If you would wish you'd put a bit less on it, you've put too much on it. If you would think, 'oh well, better luck next time' then you're about right. Hope this helps. Alec

Thanks for the transition list Megatron - glad to see I wasn't too far wrong from memory. Still no idea why they built the 075 and 076 in parallel for a couple of years though. I have no idea on the 'normal' supplies in the US, although if they discontinued the 076 fairly quickly (and didn't supply the TS510 or TS760?) in the US that would explain the difference. I would add though that I have bought a reasonable number of the 'structural' parts from the US, e.g. bar cover, muffler cover etc. at good prices. Not sure where the original poster is (location not stated) but if they're in the US perhaps one of the US sites may be able to better advise on availability for particular models. I don't share your overall opinion on this one. I agree with the design issue over the effect of leaking seals, and yes it has the ability to vibrate every bolt on the thing loose unless a little judicious threadlock is used (on mine it's nuts on studs for the intake, rather than bolts, so I replaced them with Nylocks - no problems) but I haven't had problems with breaking bits off. The trigger unit problem was solved and, as a user, I don't really mind how long it takes to pressure/vac test:biggrin: For me, it's just a really satisfying saw to use. It sounds great, it's ultra-reliable and it chews its way through anything, at its own measured but unstoppable pace. It has its idiosyncrasies, and I'll admit it wouldn't be a pleasure to use on a day to day basis, but when milling it will drag a skip chain on a 47" bar on a rip cut straight through the middle of a 2ft6x16ft oak butt on a single tank of fuel - and that's good enough for me Alec

Wickes do 25l of liquid DPM for £39.99. It's designed to go on to masonry, so should work well with cement type sheets. It's black, bitumen-based but cures out very quickly. I've put it on damp surfaces with no problems. Not sure exactly how UV stable it is, but it should be reasonable. Could give you a good few years of life and 25l goes miles. Alec

The problem appears to be one of unpredictability. Some people seem to have to do significant overhaul work to get their saws to run while others do absolutely nothing and have no problems. So far, luckily (for me) I have been in the latter category, with saws up to about 30yrs old. I even run the Allen Scythe on it, which is about as far from standard as it gets. Once I'd burned out the Castrol XL it even stopped smoking! No adjustments, although I don't tach tune, but they're not running noticeably differently at top revs - Spudulike has checked some of them and they're about where I want them. No problems at idle either. It would be good if a picture emerged as to when people do and do not have problems, as that may make it easier for dealers to make recommendations. Alec

For me - definition of a non-invasive root system is one which won't penetrate masonry, plastic etc. and will have a spread of structural roots of less than a few feet. If you've ever winched out an apple on MM106 then even a fully mature specimen won't have any roots over about a quarter of an inch diameter beyond about 2ft of the trunk. They were commonly planted against the walls of walled gardens in Victorian/Edwardian times, with no sign of subsequent movement or penetration of the structure, and that was with soft red brick and lime mortar, which are very easy to penetrate. There was a series on the BBC in the late 1980s where they restored one and they showed replanting an apple, which turned out to be on an originally planted site. No damage to the brickwork when they dug the planting pit. In our current place I'm just in the process of building an extension. We had to replace the drains to do it. This meant replacing a manhole within about 2ft of a pear tree, the trunk of which is about 3ft from the new extension foundations. It's on Quince A stock and is about 50yrs old I would guess. When we dug out the old manhole we didn't find any roots associated with it - the root system is predominantly fibrous and the roots within range of the manhole were no more than 1/8in thick. Same with the foundations. We did have to make the trench slightly deeper to meet building regulations, but only because we're on clay. I wouldn't suggest planting anything with a significant root system, or anything with a root system that was anything other than fibrous - i.e. anything tap rooting, or with big structural roots, but the above don't do this - one of the reasons they blow over so easily! Not sure whether you'll be convinced by the above, but I am happy enough with these non-invasive root systems to put them near structures, based on the evidence of the last 150yrs. Alec

I agree with you regarding the process of restoration - much more fiddly and a lot slower than many people assume. Even cleaning the things down takes ages! However, the 075/076 progression has been a very convenient special case in terms of parts availability. This is because the 051 and 075/076 had very long production runs - 1972-2003ish I think (latterly as the TS510 and TS760 disc cutters). Although the transition from 075 to 076 was around 1982, the 075 continued for a couple of years in parallel - no idea why. This means that the parts for an 051 or 076 are still very easy to get, both genuine new, genuine used and many as pattern parts, as they only went out of production relatively recently and there are a lot still around. The parts for the 075 can be identified by comparing part numbers in the three parts lists. Alec

Some of the smaller trees/large shrubs might be a good choice. They have weaker root systems and many are non-invasive. Although not evergreen, so less good for screening, some of the smaller pear, plum and apple varieties could be suitable. Slightly more unusual would be quince, mulberry or medlar, all of which make attractive small trees with non-invasive root systems. Alternatively, you could try sea buckthorn, which looks rather like an olive in leaf form, but not as dense. If you get both male and female you also get bright orange berries which are attractive in autumn/winter. Alec

Parts for the later (electronic ignition) 075av are mostly easy - it's virtually identical to the 076, which continued until recently as the TS760. The main difference is the starter assembly which matches the 051. There's a change somewhere in the production run to electronic ignition - one from after the change is easier (076 parts). Earlier parts are possible - apart from pot, piston and slightly different holes in the crank case it's the same as the 051 of the same era. The only tricky part at the moment seems to be the aluminium cup in the starter - if the ridges wear down too much to get a grip then new ones can be erratic in availability. It's also worth searching ebay.com for parts for these ones, as there are a couple of US suppliers who break old saws and advertise the parts on there. They often have more stock than they list, so are worth contacting. Shipping rates are usually OK and they're happy to ship to the UK, even though they don't include themselves on the international listings. The main thing I'm aware of to watch out for are cracks in the rear handle (this is a common problem due to a design issue - the alloy is weldable but you need someone who knows what they're doing) and that an 075 isn't actually a re-badged 051 as the top covers are interchangeable (not always fraud - sometimes it's just for ease of availability). The way to tell is whether the barrel is fixed on with long studs that come right up through the barrel fins (075) or with socket head cap screws just at the base (051). Alec

What do you mean by cheap? Stihl/Husky in this category pretty much always make over £350, unless you are very lucky on ebay. 075/076 would be my suggestion as they're heavy, so often haven't had so much use, and very solidly built so go on forever. The slightly cheaper option is an old 1970s Sachs Dolmar or Danarm - again it's going to be an ebay job. They're good for it, don't make anything like as much, but parts availability is a problem for the big Danarms - not sure on Sachs Dolmar, but I would be inclined to check on pot and piston availability before buying one. The really cheap option would be an 051. With luck, you can pick up one without a chain brake, needing a new pot and piston only (i.e. it's genuinely just worn out, rather than got underlying problems) for about £30. The parts are still readily available as they match the TS510 disc cutter. It won't pull the same length bar - 36" is possible but slow, so you really want to keep it down to 30", but it's a good way to start. Alec

For me, age is rated by number of years since it was made, but that doesn't relate necessarily to usefulness. If the numbers on them are to be believed, I have a 1994 066M, a 1980s 076, a 2000 044 and a 2001 026. I also have an 051 of mid-1970s vintage in bits, a Danarm DDA110 of 1950s-1960s vintage and will hopefully soon have a 2-man Teles of probably 1940s vintage. All of the above are useful (well, will be when the ones currently not fixed have been so). However, they pass from 'regular use' to 'vintage' when I can no longer get spares which are likely to be needed to keep them running indefinitely. At that point, they become occasional use for pleasure. I wouldn't lug the Teles into the woods for example! The other significant feature for me is safety features. I personally wouldn't want to use a saw without a chain brake for anything other than milling. I would also want decent AV. Noise I can live with - I wear proper ear defenders and don't work anywhere it will annoy the neighbours. Emissions/efficiency - well, I don't run enough tankfuls through to worry about it (and I use Aspen so it's not as bad as it could be). Otherwise, as has already been said, it's efficiency (fuel or power) to weight that really improves, and sometimes reliability goes down as things get more complex and more plastic. Personally, I would regard any pro saw from the 1990s onwards as viable for regular, professional use - assuming it hasn't been either abused or run so hard it's worn out. Pretty much the same as with cars really - a mid-1990s Volvo could have years of life in it, while a mistreated, thrashed one wouldn't be any use even if it only had 100k on the clock and a 500k mile example wouldn't be a good proposition, however well it had been serviced. Alec

The ports are the bit in the barrel where the gas flow is directed. Open port means that they are open to the bore; closed port means they're an enclosed channel. If the port is open, the piston can't run against that bit of the bore. This means it will be a bit less efficient as a seal (slightly less power per .cc) - doesn't affect compression as this is above the ports, but it does affect the efficiency of gas transfer within the cycle and, probably more significantly, that the barrel will tend to wear a bit faster. For an occasional use home saw, you will probably not notice the difference in reality. Alec

Sorry it didn't help! The point I was trying to make was that I don't think the question you're asking will help arm you with anything useful in future relative to avoiding future issues like the one you experienced. The 038 you had didn't behave as it did because it was manufactured in a particular year - it behaved like an 038, minus some for condition, irrespective of which particular year it was made. A little-used 1982 saw would out-perform a hard worked 1992 saw, so even if it had been a 1992 model that wouldn't have made things any better. In other words, whilst you were 'had' over the year of the saw, if you hadn't been it wouldn't have made the saw behave any better! The question I think you're trying to address is, before experiencing using a particular model, how do you work out roughly what it should be like, and then seeing whether the particular one you're looking at is a good or bad example. Whilst Megatron's comments are technically correct, I don't think they help answer the question. Yes, you could dismantle an 044 to establish whether it's the 10mm or 12mm wrist pin, and armed with that information you could establish whether the date on the sticker matches the model type, but realistically it doesn't make any tangible difference to how it performs in real-world use, and that was my original point, whilst I acknowledge that changes were made during production runs that can last decades, most of the changes don't make a lot of difference to the user. As such, in answer to your specific question: No, you can't get the absolute year Yes, you can get a good approximation if you know how Stihl serial numbers work No, this won't help you in judging a particular saw on fleabay. Probably the best you can realistically do is get credible dates for introduction and sometimes discontinuation of models. The most comprehensive list I know of is at: Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer The dates aren't perfect, but they're a good indication and give an idea as to whether the date on a sticker is even possible. It will, specifically, tell you whether it's a 1970s, 80s or later design, which I think gives you more useful information as to what it will be like, as per my original post. Alec Alec

Hi, sorry it didn't make it clearer! Megatron's comments are correct specific examples, but don't address your main point, which is about what you're getting for your money. The point I was trying to make was that I don't think your original question will tell you what you really want to know either - a knackered 1992 saw is worse than a little used 1982 saw for example. The closest I can get to answering your actual question, which relates to my original point, is to suggest looking at Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer, which is, whilst uncorroberated and containing a few minor errors, about the most comprehensive list of saws there is. This gives, in many cases, a year introduced and sometimes a year discontinued. This might at least tell you if the quoted date is credible, and will indicate whether the design is old and hence likely to 'feel' like a 1970s saw or a 1990s saw etc. Alec

You can date them from the serial number, but I'm not sure it would help you very much. The characteristics of most models change very little throughout the production run - your 038 would still have been heavy and thirsty whether it was built in 1982, 1992 or 2002 - it would still essentially be based on 1970s technology. There are three factors I think you're trying to assess in secondhand saws. Design era, which will tell you a bit about performance vs. weight, and complexity as well as factors like efficiency, noise emissions and vibration levels; model spec. which will give theoretical performance (mainly .cc, HP and chain speed) so is it a racer or a slogger (design era plays a role here too) and also, by reputation, reliability and parts availability; and finally condition- how does it measure up to it's original spec. In my view, at first and even second pass, none of these are significantly affected by serial number. Alec

There are a lot of savings to be made driving. Easy ones are to look over whether you're carrying anything around that you don't need to - take the weight out for savings on fuel, to drive less lead-footed, take off any roof bars if not in use and keep the outside clean and waxed for reduced wind resistance. Drive with the windows shut rather than heater on and windows open. Also, if you have two vehicles, use the smaller, more efficient one for jobs where you're not carrying anything. When insurance time comes around, doing all the shopping around options really does pay off, and being prepared to haggle. Try Money Saving Expert for more ideas - I reckon it's saved us about a grand this year. Alec

Mine isn't big, quite the opposite in fact, but it's good - it's an ESAB Caddy, so truly portable stick/TIG and I really like it. Not sure where you are, but would thoroughly recommend Tecweld in Gravesend, who refurbish top end kit and sell it on at very reasonable prices. Also very realistic with their advice on what features you do/don't really need for a particular line of work. Alec

Several other factors to consider. How accessible are they? Are they roadside, moveable, or will they need milling in-situ? They're big enough to be worth milling, but not worth picking up as a part-load unless someone is pretty local. They're worth most if you have a long-term use for them yourself, and get them milled to a cutting list, then leave them to air dry. This would represent a significant saving over buying it in. Simply opening them for offers will depend if there's anyone local enough who needs them. For context, I've typically paid £50/tree for individual trees (standing) of that size, and have never struggled to find them at that price when I need them. Alec

I would be looking less at the dedicated log trailer type - more at the general transport hi-ab units with say a 20+ ton crane and a flat deck trailer. They'll be easier to come by (cheaper as there's more competition), will crane straight on and you'll get about 4 side by side on the deck if you alternate the fat ends. A couple more on the top and ratchet strap well down - no issues with load security or breaking strains on the ratchet straps with your type of load. I don't know anyone down your way unfortunately - I've used Millbank and MGT up this way. SW Crane Hire (google hi-ab and the county of your choice - not sure exactly where in Cornwall you are) would be the sort of thing, although a smaller company with fewer units will almost certainly be cheaper. Last time I hired a lorry (Sept 2010) I needed a two man crew, rear-wheel steer on a 40ft step trailer, which weighed in at £650 for the full day near London. Be aware that they won't go off hard surfaces as the crane units alone are very heavy and they bog down easily. Alec

A really abstract thought. For people, you can get the ashes made into a diamond. Thinking of your yew table with embedded nugget, how about a simple abstract form with embedded cat diamond near the top? Alec

If you mow over it often enough it dies. Took about a year mowing once a month. Start early while the shoots are soft. Alec

About £60+vat I think. It was a few years back, but I needed another part last year and still had no problem (my local Speedy gave it to me as they couldn't be bothered to calculate the postage fees!) Alec

I must admit I'd go legit for the number being moved. For a single log I'd chance it, but with 25 to do, either something will go wrong, or even if it doesn't you'll need a fair crew of people and people are likely to end up very knackered with whole thing taking twice as long as you think. Alec

You have an old style 1.5ton tirfor. Tractel don't do emails - they're struggling to cope with 1980s technology, let alone anything more recent. You need to ring them up and they will fax you the parts list. They are very helpful by phone. Speedy Hire are agents for Tractel. They sometimes even have the parts lists available. Your local branch can definitely get a handle. Mine managed to get all the parts to refurbish a 1970 5ton model for me, all on 24hr delivery, including a new handle. Alec

Hi-ab on a full length artic would be legit. Would get the lot in about 3 or 4 loads. Very low mileage, so you might get a deal at around £350-400 with a bit of effort. Less legit - the axle as a DIY trailer route would be viable. A double-wheel transit back axle would be my favourite - fairly easy to come by complete with wheels and tyres on ebay - I bought a couple for £50 each to move my boat about (7.5tons). The transit axles are rated at 900kg/wheel, so 3.6tons on the axle, i.e. no problem taking the weight. 500m up the road - take say 5mins/run? I'd be inclined to have a couple of mates with mobiles stationed about 10mins up the road in each direction to let you know when you're good to go. I would also be inclined to have someone following with hazards on. Firstly for safety, secondly if you were unlucky enough to be spotted then lenient Old Bill might let you off if it looks like you're taking precautions. Alec