wyk

New carbon bar thing: STIHL Rollomatic ES Carbon | STIHL | Stihl, Viking, Motorsäge, Kettensäge, Motorsense, Heckenscheren, Freischneider, Hochdruckreiniger, Rasenmäher, Rasentrimmer Dunno how yer meant to mount it on the saw with all that Lucite around it.

And BTW, will someone here buy this chainsaw and put it on their bench, for the lvoe of God. Do not let her sell for 15 bucks: MCCULLOCH CHAINSAW | eBay If I were in England, I'd get this myself. Here's my last one:

Shindaiwa 452S Petrol Chainsaw

FedEX was after me for a while with a 40 Euro charge on a package labelled personal items/moving to Ireland, which itemized $25 worth of used baseballs and baseball gloves. And that was valued a bit on the high side. I called them and told them they can come take my gloves if they even think they can get 40 for em...

Well, 18" on a ported 77cc saw is a bit cheating, really. Same maple trunk, 22" bar, 8 pin sprocket. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M6uDs4jT0I]Ported Jonsered 2165 BB 22" bar - YouTube[/ame] Unfortunately, at the end of that video, I found some metal in the face of that trunk.

Just remember that until ya get a handle on porting, that less is more. Knocking off the coating on the top of the exhaust and the bottom of the intake will get ya some improved timing. Depending on the model, some folks do not even add exhaust timing at all. All saws can use upper transfer fiddling, but make sure you know what yer doing. Some saws make great gains with tiny mods. You'll usually see a 25% improvement on cutting times with a simple muffler mod and touching up the insides a bit and adding more fuel. This is may last project, a 77cc BB top end on a 2165/AKA 365. Intake is at 159(this model BB has a wide intake tract and is fine at lower intake timing even modded), exhaust is at 163(it is running a pop up piston at 200psi ish), transfers at 21* and heavily modded, zama carb, with an 18 B&C running chain with very low rakers in maple wood - excuse the lack of shorts: [ame] [/ame]

We were more addressing the OP's original query. There's very few of us transporting saws that would bother to acquire a DG license.

That's a lot of rosemary.

I've read in a few porting guides that a polished surface causes the mixture to shear as the fuel starts to stick to the intake tract, causing the oil to separate before reaching the case.

Did you replace the fuel filter? I didn't see you say that. Also make sure the fuel line is healthy, and not easily squished. Old fuel lines will partially or fully collapse at full throttle sometimes.

I'd go to the AS site and look up masterminds threads and the porting 101 threads before you tear in to a jug like a 254xp. He does start to finish porting walk-throughs.

As I said before - the issue isn't just federal and state regulations. You must contact the airline and make sure you adhere to their policies as well. They vary from airline to airline. Always check with the airline as well as the federal authorities when moving anything out of the ordinary. If you goof up, you can lose a lot of time and money that a few minutes ahead of time would have quashed.

Let's be honest, folks. Having someone land on the job site from a weeks worth of training and expecting them to be competent is a huge ask. NPTC is guidance, the worksite is the real training for beginners. I understand the venting and the frustration, but we do need to be patient and careful with the new guys.

I've used a ported Echo 510 in a logging environment for months. Your starter pull is more likely to get caught on stuff than the choke on any saw. The Echo is still running, and she is 10 years old or so.

I would suggest doing a google search for: "mastermind meets the" and "porting 101" and use the quotes in the search.

I'll chime in, of course. I wouldn't even say the quality is an issue worth discussing. Shindaiwa/Echo(both under Yamabiko now), Stihl, Husqvarna, are built to the same standards. All saws nowadays are EPA choked, and have similar power for their displacements, etc. The Husky AT and Stihl M-Tronic are notable exceptions, as are their prices. I have been using saws off and on for 25 years now. Until the electronics made the scene, they have all been more or less the same for quality and power. It is astonishing how much marketing plays a role in branding. People like the policy Stihl have of no internet selling etc. "Face to face customer service" is what it's all about, etc. This policy has little to do with the consumer - it is to protect the dealers, but marketing says otherwise, and folks believe that nonsense. I have had completely abhorrent service from virtually all saw dealers in my lifetime, and great service from all likes. Service has more to do with the shop than the brand. What matters to most is the support. If you do not work on your saws, or are flat out unable to, support matters. In such a case, this will drive purchases and create brand loyalties. And for good reason. What ya need to consider is if that Shindaiwa/Stihl/Husky does fail, and you need a part - does your local guy have it right here right now? Do you have spares? If you ask me - if you make a living with equipment, you need to know that equipment inside and out. You need to be able to make it work if it fails because it undoubtedly will fail you sooner or later - no matter the brand, and I have used them all. If it hasn't failed, you haven't been using it. Let's be honest here - it does not get any more simple than a petrol powered chainsaw as machines go. You can probably fit most saws on three pages of IPL, including an exploded carb view. Know your equipment.

For the prices an MS250 goes for, I would go with the Shindaiwa 452s first. A professional saw in the same displacement for about the same price.

Oregon make a few things for Husqvarna - chains, bars, sprockets, screnches, etc. Oregon have been supplying chain to Swedish manufacturers on and off since the 60's.

The 044, 064, 046, and 361 are Stihl's best saws made to date if you ask me. I have a fondness for ported 361's. With their quad transfers and easy to increase compression, you get a hell of a saw in a ported 361, with good AV to boot.

There are differing brands. They all work fine. I prefer Save Edge.

Stihl 325RS looks pretty similar. Did you have to return the Windsor? Blount bought Windsor nearly 15 years ago. They and Oregon have been under the same roof since(Blount bought Oregon out in the 90's). Blount have been rebranding, repackaging, and shuffling products between brands for some time now. That Windsor chain looks an awful lot like Carlton, whom Blount also have owned since 2008. Oregon started back in 1947 - Windsor in 1948.

Ya keeping the windsor? I like how thin the cutter teeth look. Might be a tad faster chain after a few sharpenings. Also looks like it has more cutter.

If yer a big guy with a good budget, I would go with the 560. If ya want to save weight, a 550 or 346xp would do. For cheap and light, but still pro quality, Shindaiwa 452s are pretty good lil saws, and weigh nearly nothing, and do alright with a muff mod. Same can be said for an Echo 500ES, if they are still around. It was a bored out 502s/452s to 50cc. Both very affordable. A 391 is only suitable for holding down the shed floor.

Dual port muffler front cover only Fits STIHL MS660 066 064 MS650 | eBay Or go to the Stihl dealer and pay mebbe 60 bob. Advancing the timing 6* on a ported 460 with 210 psi compression was also good for another .47HP on that mans dyno. He noted the ported saw didn't have much more top end HP over the standard dual port 460, but that it had noticeably more torque throughout the rest of the RPM range. As a caveat, I have heard of some of the older 064 models not quite having the same muffler base. The front cover fits, but the 660 or 066 muffler didn't fit. But that was a conversation in passing I had with a bud of mine that ran an o64 back in Oregon in 2010, so I wouldn't quote my memory. But something to consider. I nearly bought that saw from him. I should have.

A contributor on AS has built a dyno. He is an engineer. He is also very familiar in the design and use of chainsaws. This is a quote from him on one of the first few runs he had. The actual HP #'s do not necessarily matter - it's more to compare saws to one another. But I thought this finding was interesting: " At 9000 rpms the hp was 3.426. A dual port muffler and a retune gave this saw a .705 hp gain" That is a nearly a 20% gain by simply adding a factory dual port to the 460 muffler and retuning the carburetor. The reason why they don't come standard now is it reduces the maximum sound levels, and the manufacturers use less aggressive port timing for 'cleaner' running. On an older model like an 064/046/044, a muffler mod makes a bit more of a difference due to more aggressive port timing. Well, it's not so much a muffler mod as those models were designed to run with the factory front port.