wyk

This is some of Randy's work back in the States: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yMJMoAsYFk]Nixons 395XP - YouTube[/ame]

If that was a ported Walkerized saw, you wouldn't be asking if it were ported. Walker does a lot of muffler work, and typically dual port mufflers similarly to what you have there. Chances are that is simply a muff mod. The idle alone would tell you if it were ported.

And the bar and chain are in from Rob. Ported and lathe worked MS361. Ending compression was about 195psi:

They are not even remotely close, especially if the 365 is an XT. The 365 is built upon a professional chassis, the 290 is plastic.

Sorry, I only skimmed through your posts because I thought someone else had answered them when I saw your answer to yourself. The answer of course is - it depends. It is difficult to open a saw up too much, though. There's only so many holes one can put into a muffler before you have hot exhaust spilling into parts of the saw that aren't designed for it - like the brake handle or top cover. 70% is a good start. Make sure to retune/add a bit more fuel.

Standard 73lpx on that girl - no goofy filing. Bar is 22". 8 pin rim, as well. This 18" bar here is where I did a bit of mods to the chain. No race chain work on the links, just some creative work on the cutters and really low rakers(but not thinned): [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OptyXKhsPbo]2165 BB ported with increased compression - YouTube[/ame] Bear in mind that saw is pulling chips that size out of a maple trunk - not a conifer. This would be mad in the PNW on fir with a 32" bar, square chisel, and a 7 tooth.

Here's the finished BB kit, at 22* blow down, after about 4 or 5 tanks or so, this is with a pop up piston at .037 if I recall or mebbe 27, and no base gasket: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M6uDs4jT0I]Ported Jonsered 2165 BB 22" bar - YouTube[/ame]

I've spent several days with an 090 in 4-5' timber. The vibration compared to even a non spring AV modern saw near it's displacement is ridiculous. It's almost as if it was designed to shake.

This is a bit more complicated than ya might first think. You could go with a big bore kit. But, none are OEM, and some are much better than others. You can go with a bigger carb - but again you need to know what you are doing and what you are going with. Some carbs will have to be modified to work with some saws(like in the case of an 044 carb on a 361, etc). Few saws benefit from a larger carb without good port work first. There are a couple of guys state side that do piston and cylinder mods, but some of them prefer to only sell to folks they know have a clue what they are doing. In some cases, you won't be saving much money, if any, over sending in your saw or taking a modded saw from them. The easiest first mods to do are to open up your muffler some and enrichen the adjustments screws a bit. This alone often adds much better torque and throttle response. I am considering importing 77cc BB kits and porting them and making them available. But the problem there lies in whether you can trust the customer to install them correctly. On some saws, like the Husqvarna 365/372 series, some folks do not reinstall the intake boot right and end up with an air leak that eventually kills their ported P&C. Some guys are crap at tuning, and burn their saws out or block them up. So there's plenty that can go wrong and come back at you. If I sell a ported saw to someone, I make sure they have my contact info and spend time with them explaining and showing them how to treat the saw for tuning, etc. Even so, you have to expect some to come back to you for further work, or complete reworking, whether the saws fault, yours, or the users. When you mod a product, it is always your responsibility afterwards. You do this work, not because it makes you rich(coz it won't), but because you love it and you want others to enjoy it. It's not a lot different than art.

I have to remind myself that this is an arborist site on occasion. If it is on your personal equipment, and you baby them working in people's neighborhoods, they work fine for a long while. When you start to use your saw in work like logging or on a crew or a landing, they do not last. Mine failed on a saw long before the chinese had a replacement on offer. I am not a climber or arborist; in such a case, they should last. In fact, I think they are great on small saws and topping saws. But for work saws and crew saws, it is a step backwards. The saw is either robust, or it isn't. There is no 'well, be smarter with it' nonsense when it comes to work equipment. It can either take the bumps, or it can't. If it doesn't, you go with equipment for your crew that can. In any case, when is it smarter when you have to go with flippy caps because you can't figure out how to use a screw cap? How can ya say folks shouldn't be running saws if they can't understand a flippy, and then turn around and complain about a screw cap? I am still laughing for that. It's not that I won't ever use a Stihl - I own one and love it. I would just prefer it didn't have gimmicks that failed you and stuck to being a strong work saw first instead. Flippy caps are an answer to a problem that never existed. That is the most frustrating part. The reason these threads keep popping up is because there is a problem in the design. Expect to see more in the future until Stihl has a fix. They are on their second fix so far. So, we'll see how it goes.

Bear in mind that racing castor oil is formulated for, well, racing. It leaves a film in the bore and on the piston to ensure your motor is coated during very heavy heat cycling and loads for hours at a time. Once race day is over, you then tear down the engine and rebuild it. If you don't, you will accrue both carbon and castor build up over time. For GTG's and race day events with chainsaws, it's perfectly fine. But I wouldn't run it every day in a work saw unless I planned to pull it apart within a short while. Smells freakin lovely though.

Basically, yes. On some older saws, there are boost ports. You could also add fingers ports that act as both transfers and boost ports. Some of the strongest ported saws I have ever seen had open transfers with finger ports. Here's one done by Mastermind Work Saws.

This flippy cap thing sort of reminds me of the Apple iPhone Aerial issue. Apple denies it ever has a problem. Eventually they lie to their customers even more and say something stupid like a rubber surround will make the phone suddenly pick up radio signals better. Then they finally admit 'some phones' could be affected about the time they are to come out with the newer version that works...mostly. Meanwhile, many iPhone fanatics give out to the other iPhone owners that are complaining that they bought a product which basically doesn't work as it should since it cost 500 freakin bucks. The last thing I should ever have to do is take a few more steps out of my day to ensure my fecking fuel cap is actually working. This is literally moronic. When you are dealing with dangerous equipment, you never, ever design it to be more of a hassle to use than the previous generation. They took a simple design that has worked for hundreds of years, and made it a far more complicated design that causes headaches. And, as an added benefit, when they fail, they often fail completely. This is something the old caps never did. Make the saw work, Stihl. Stop *king around and playing with gimmicks. We're not amused.

Also available in the 362R

And, most importantly, buy Husqvarna.

Some folks do: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OD1WrSrQWo8]346XP Micro howler Versus 6" x 12" Beam - YouTube[/ame]

That's madsens' ten cube hot saw: Race Saw Preparation My first Husky was a Madsens ported 372xp back when I was in Oregon. It's the 372 I have shown in a few other photos here and there.

If you look close enough, you can tell it has an exhaust mod.

Careful now - that doubles as a spud launcher.

Or maybe we already had that covered....

The full wrap kit is getting harder to come by nowadays since the 361 hasn't been sold in the states for years. The parts number is: 1135 007 1007 That includes bolts, high discharge clutch cover(useful on ported 361's in softwoods and noodling), full wrap, new stiffer upper AV mount, two slightly larger felling spikes, and a scrench AKA spanner for specifically reaching the bar nuts with the wrap on.

Here's the latest project in all her glory. A PNW MS361 with a bit of lathe work done to her and a few bits replaced this day. A new bar is also on the way from Rob:

They can be very frustrating. I baby the ones on my Stihl's because it is a nightmare when they fail on you unexpectedly. What swore me off of them was a pole saw failing on me while I was working with it. I got a face ful of it, too. Man was I upset at Stihl for a long while there. If you work with a flippy cap Stihl long enough, you are gonna eventually add some oil or mix to the countryside, like it or lump it.

That's a bud on SawHawgz. I am actually not a fan of tubes, though I have one on this 361 I am working on. I am strange when it comes to muff mods. I prefer simple louvers to drilling and bolting, or brazing stuff onto the muffler. I also think they sound and flow better than deflectors, and unless you look hard - you can't even tell they've been done much of the time. Pipes, though, can sound amazing. I just don't like the look. You'll understand how much the look bothers me when you see how I have it done on my 361. I'll try and post up an image later on. I have my replacement handlebar due in today(the original was slightly smashed on this saw - saving chassis with it's sacrifice). Rob has a nice new Sugi Light bar enroute to me. I'll put up images once it arrives and I have done some testing with the saw.

That's a muffler mod