wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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Cargo and checked baggage are two entirely different things. Many, if not all passenger airlines that handle baggage have a separate cargo department. They both also are subject to different rules and regulations. Contact your airline to avoid any problems.
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The problem with checking a chainsaw is it is a fuel container. Even when new on the shelf, they are assumed to have been tested by the manufacturer, and thus may contain some fuel. There are international and airline specific rules for the transport of fuel containers. It is best to contact the airline you intend to use.
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When do we get a "Who's on your bench" forum?
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They've had synthetic fuels available since the early 1980's. Mobil 1 fully synthetic motor oil came out in 1974. The 50:1 is not a black and white quality oil thing, it is also an EPA thing. If it works, it works. If it burns cleaner, it burns cleaner. But, lets not paint it in a different light. It was pushed as much by environmental factors as any oil quality factors.
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I'm with ya there. I use 40:1 myself on all my saws. Most Arbs and foresters I know run their saws on the rich side. Sometimes ridiculously so. So 32:1 would cake them up prolly inside a few months. But bear in mind, that Mastermind also sees a lot of non-ported saws. Hundreds is a tad conservative. He ports hundreds a year, so prolly has seen thousands of standard saws. He also advises running 32:1 in them as well. I was raised in the 40:1 era. Perhaps he was raised in the 32:1 era. Shrug. Use good oil is all I gotta say, I guess.
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This is a quote from Randy, AKA Mastermind from AS. He has ported hundreds of saws and repaired hundreds more. "32:1 just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. I don't believe I'd see any failures at 40:1 either.......but The 390XP has been known to lose the crank and/or PTO bearings. That same saw on 32:1 will last and last. The 372XP has a crank that can be a little intolerant of static compression pressures of 200 psi and more.....unless they are run @32:1. I torture test a few saws of my own......trying to kill em with compression. I have to know what they will or will not be able to handle. Since I started using H1R @ 32:1, I've not lost a crank...... " He also has said that 50:1 is EPA nonsense, to paraphrase. And has recently shown what Amsoil Saber at 80:1 can do to a MS660 Crank(the bearings seized and grenaded much of the motor).
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Well that explains all the different bar types. And here I thought they were only being difficult...
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We all gotta start somewhere. I was in the same boat as you. I assume you are looking for a 50cc saw. You also have options in an Echo 500ES, and the Jonsered and Huskies mentioned.
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There's also the Shindaiwa 452S. Shindaiwa 452S Petrol Chainsaw
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Oh, the bar studs are different. It is small mount.
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Chainsaw CS 2260 HUSQVARNA 562 XP® - XP® saws Chassis seems the same.
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I assumed the 2260 was also large sprocket. I just couldn't see Husqvarna making two different 60cc chassis for nearly identical markets.
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Ah. The 560 is a small sprocket?
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That muff is gutted with 2 deflectors and two more 1/2" openings out the front. Unfortunately, if it stays too stationary, like in this 4' Douglas Fir, it gets a little burny. Hrm... mebbe a pipe IS due...
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I'll just leave this right here...
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13624 - Oregon 9 pin 325 part number.
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Or just get a sprocketless bar. They usually have stellite or some such on the tip and last a long while.
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Some conifers, Doug Fir especially, are very fibrous and wet. On a long bar, like 32-36" which is typical use for a 71-93cc ported saw in DFir, the chain will be loose enough for the fibers to get in and gunk them up. A more narrow channel makes it more difficult for the fibers to get in, and it more easily cuts and minces the fibers that do. It also makes a long chain a bit lighter. And some bars are made more narrow for 050 gauge chains, making them lighter again. A 70-93cc saw in the PNW is not a ground saw. It is a felling saw. We drag it around on the side of a mountain all day. So a few ounces here and there add up and help. If you throw your chain, it is also easier to fix the links by hand. Here's the noodles you'll get out of DFir:
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It's not really a narrow kerf, just a narrow gauge.
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Ah yeah. Dual ports. Wow, we've dragged this poor thread way off topic...
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It would prolly be easier for you to convert it to .122 on that harvester chain. Stubb, Windsor made a lot of bars in .050 for reduced weight. They would also make their bars slightly slimmer if they came in 050. The savings were in the ounces, but they were still lighter than their stihl counterparts by a good measure. In the PNW, .058 is non existent. It's 050 or 063, and Stihl bars were just as likely to be 63 as 50. This is my 046 wearing a 28" 050 Windsor:
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My 32" powermatch reduced weight bar was .050. It is very common in the PNW. Supposedly clogs up less with fibrous wood like fir, and is lighter.
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Same issues with them in the States.
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Mitch is here to help: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29FiGmDQkaM]How to tune a chainsaw - YouTube[/ame]
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In order for the two stroke oil to not ignite at all, the chamber temperatures and pressures would have to be so low as to not completely burn the petrol as well. The pressure alone from the petrol igniting would ignite most oils, let alone the fact there is fire and spark and heat in there beforehand. The amount of unburnt fuel and oil pouring out of the exhaust at that point would simply be ridiculous. Revisiting the 32:1 statement I made earlier. As I mentioned before regarding those mixtures - remember that many of the old school saws that asked for 32:1 or 25:1 had factory compressions in the 180-200psi range as well. I had an old McCulloch 7-10 that you could hold up by the starter handle and it would never unspool it. That thing had a ridiculous amount of torque. With a 20" bar on that 7-10, it was nearly impossible to stall it in the cut with a sharp chain.
