wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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They are getting harder to find. I am hunting one down for my next project.
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But what if you ordered an Oregon 20" powermatch bar and got a Windsor 20" speed tip?
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Marketing always played a large role in retail pricing...
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Replacement?! Keep the 064. One of the best saws Stihl ever made. If it doesn't have the dual port muff - get it. It is a factory option that adds better power and response. That's advice coming from someone whom loves the 365/372 chassis, too. Edited to say: Let me know if ya want to unload that 064! A good smaller saw would be a strong 50cc saw. You can go either 261CM or 550xp, really. I like how the 550 handles better than the 261, myself.
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No shirt malfunction necesario acqui: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFUoWx7eUcg]MAKING OF CALENDARIO ECHO SHINDAIWA - YouTube[/ame]
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People make mistakes. Let the seller know you aren't satisfied with the transaction and go on from there. Windsor itself is not some overnight outfit. They have been making chainsaw parts for decades. I have never had any issues with their equipment, and still prefer their bars to Oregon to this day. So, it's not like he baited and switched you with some generic chinese junk, even if you do end up with Windsor. I wouldn't panic.
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7AcsCw-738]RKG DIY - Chainsaw Blaze of Redneck Glory - YouTube[/ame]
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On top of that, I think the 170's rod is also stamped metal. If ya want to learn, give it a try. If ya want a keeper, I would go something with a more conventional chassis. The WIld Thing in my vid is wildly modified as well. It's basically a poulan chassis sold here as the various homelite/McCulloch/Partner 35-40cc saws with plastic chassis. It's sad for this American to see so many good old US saw mfgs now having their names dragged through the dirt in China.
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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jILDwZwl6fA]wildthing with ported transfers.MOV - YouTube[/ame]
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The main complaint some had was it weighed exactly the same as a 460, yet was a 70cc saw. The M-Tronic version seems to have silenced that crowd. Beyond that, some have complained about it's robustness regarding the AV and plastics. The folks that I know that run them, love them.
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They're doing better on their bars as well. They seem to be better treated, and even the paint is more robust. Used to be one outing and the paint started to disappear. The bar in the vid above has maybe a dozen trees down, limbed, and bucked, and still looks great.
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Standard ZAMA carb(which has a larger bore than the Halbro counterpart they used on these saws). No change in jetting. A lot of what you are seeing is the torque produced by compression in the 200psi range due to a welded pop up piston. I ran her a bit rich for the first tank to set in the rings. As it is, that is actually a tad rich. She can probably run at 15,000 rpm and still oil fine. But I don't need her for cookie cutting - she is a work saw, and I want her to last. I will be selling her soon as I am moving on to my next project.
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10th tank - 18" bar with very low rakers, teeth field at an angle to produce larger chips: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OptyXKhsPbo]2165 BB ported with increased compression - YouTube[/ame] Thought this dead tree mighta been a beech at first, but the wood looks to be maple. Still very hard wood.
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We ordered chinese for tonight. I had the duck. Way too much beer. Some nice cognac. And now I am gonna go pass out. That beech is gonna have to wait til after Christmas. Even so, both my chains for the JRed are rocked. I am gonna go and order a new chain and some Safe Edge files. Bah. I also am in need of a 50cc saw. PM if anyone has something? OBliged, Fellas. Y'all enjoy your holidays!
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They were very old iron nails. SO not too bad. That was Oregon 73lpx I think. Oregon seems to be making their chain harder than they used to. That's a good thing. What really hurt was the metal in the long cut I did. That ruined most of the teeth on one side, and many on the other. I don't have a grinder, so that's maybe half an hour of working away with a file to get her back. Bah. I may have enough log to do 10 cuts of 8". I am gonna go check right now.
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With the possible exception of poplar, even with square ground chain, an 8t 3/8 460 dual port would destroy a 660 in 8" of wood if the 660 were running 404. Put all those guys in 16" of wood and the difference in displacement will be even more apparent. In 8" of wood, I have a ported 444SE that would beat all those guys, even the 460 and the 660. And do it easily. 8" gives very little resistance, and is not much of a yard stick to compare saws of such wide range of displacement in. I may have 8" of beech laying about. I'll do some cuts with the 2165 I got here and we can compare With very little resistance, it's all about chain speed. That 460 is not gonna slow down much in 8", and it has more potential chain speed than a 660.
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If ya wanna check out the video again, I've added highlights to show where I have hit 2 nails while making those cuts.
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Mebbe... assuming you don't put an 8t on the 460, which is what you would usually run in that sort of wood.
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The 460 has the torque for small wood, and the top end for speed. My 046 consistently beat a buds 066 in any wood up to 24". After that, the 066's grunt would prevail. I even have a vid of my 372 beating his 066 in about 20" of red alder whilst running a longer bar, too.
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You can open up the intake and exhaust a good bit. This BB kit wants a good muffler opening as well. So keep that in mind. Here it is at 163 Exhaust, 158 Intake, 21-22* blowdown(transfers are staggered similarly to an ms361), ~200psi ish with popped piston(I'll put up the actual PSI when the top end settles in - it's only on it's 4th or 5th tank now). And 3 ports in the muffler. I was considering running the pop up at 220PSI and going mad, thus the exhaust #'s. But the bottom ends tend to come lose at those pressures. This set up seems to work well at 200 psi, tho. I would keep yours at 158-160. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MaDZHbsVkY]Ported Jonsered 2165 - YouTube[/ame]
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When I received the HyWay kit, before even porting it, I had to clean up the intake quite a bit to make it more concentric. The transfers on one side were very poorly cast and took me about 20 minutes to clean up. The exhaust flange was not perfectly true. I had to take a file to it to flatten it up to seal correctly with the muffler and gaskets. So, inspect your aftermarket kits closely. Since I do port saws, I may be a bit more particular, and might notice some things your average user wouldn't. It would have probably ran OK for a while, but you really want it to run well for a long while.
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I'd take Steve's advice first. Barring that, I have heard good things about the HyWays. I put one on my 2165 recently and ported it. We'll see how long she lasts. Here's the vid of the 76.6cc kit ported with a welded pop up on the piston: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M6uDs4jT0I]Life's a Beetch, and then you cut metal. - YouTube[/ame]
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The wide range of bars, and the options for longer ones is mainly due to the fact the US has a huge range of wood, and much of it generally larger than here. In many areas, conifers abound. A stock 372 can easily pull a 28" bar buried in Cedar with square ground chain. Folks in the states cutting oak with the same saw stick with 20-24" bars. I have only used the Shindaiwa 452S, which the 500P is based upon, and love it with a muffler mod. It is no 346xp, but it weighs a lot less, costs a lot less, and pulls well.
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I'm fond of the new 500P AKA Shindaiwa 502S. It's a 50cc top end on the Shindaiwa 452/45cc chassis. It weighs nearly 12 ounces less than a 346xp, and is easy to muffler mod with just a screwdriver.
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If you can work on saws, EBay is good if you are careful. If not, you may want to check the local small engine shops and see if they have something used they have serviced and can support you with.
