wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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Yes and no. On the ranger, open ports are cheaper and more easy to make, and more ubiquitous at that time. On the 555, they actually designed the transfers(which are removable) to be less efficient. It is a part that must be bolted on, so it didn't save any time, it was simply marketing.
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Far away in Tipperary.
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Hell, if ya like the looks, I got a 360 here I'd let go cheap.
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SOrt of like the Porsche Cayman. It is a mid-engined car capable of having every bit of engine like the 911 turbo, and then handling better. But marketing makes sure it sticks right in the middle of the line for revenue. Thus we have the 555. A purposefully detuned 560 so that they can charge less for it even though it cost nearly the same to make. Purely so they have another market. As a note, the 555 also has more restrictive transfers. Which is far more marketing than simply leaving out stuffers as it is simply another part redesigned to be less efficient.
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If its loads, you'll prolly have to bring up the transfers to ridiculous blowdown for real rpms in the cut. I read somewhere that Brad used 16* on some of the bigger stihls. Yes, 16*. That's with an equally angry 164* or so on the intake. I really go easy on the blowdown since I prefer most work saws to have good torque at usable RPM's for felling. On a 50cc saw, I may go a bit more on blowdown.
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Supposedly the 362, even though it's a strato, likes numbers similar to the 361. I haven't degreed a 362, so I can't say much for it myself. Is there a baffle or sumfin in that 150? An MM on a 200 itself gives nearly 25%.
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1:57 is pretty impressive. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3dSbThaL30]880 Snag 2.wmv - YouTube[/ame]
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The 390 takes well to porting, and is a direct 660 replacement. The 395 has a bit more grunt(torque). But, it also responds well to porting and runs 404 much better. Even in the pacific northwest, ported 390's rarely run a 36" bar even in softwoods. So you pretty much have got to go with that 395 for hardwood.
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Like a handicap?
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I'm ditching all my husqvarnas and doing all that stuff you just said. If it doesn't work out for me, It's all your fault. The 261 handles like a pig, too. I'm gonna be onery bout it.
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I did a bit of engineering as well. So, I have a background in science. So, what scientific study have you done on dual ring chainsaws and single ring chainsaws to test your hypothesis? In the field, I haven't seen my Stihl rings and cylinders outlast my Husqvarna's at a rate of 50%... Have you? It's anecdotal, but 50% is such a large margin, even in a small sample with a single user doing the same work, I should probably see some difference, right? Or is it not so simple?
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You typed all that on your smart phone? I fear what would have come out had you been in front of a computer.
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So, then, on a single ring system, it really isn't metal on metal...and the longevity between a single ring system and dual ring is relatively moot...
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By the same token, with two rings, how does the top ring get lubricated? By only the ring gap? Via the mix that enters through the transfers for a fraction of a fraction of a second and then is burned off? How does the top ring on a dual ring system not do more damage to itself and the cylinder than a single ring? The bottom ring may last longer, but will the cylinder last longer?
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The 260 has a domed piston. You can get some crazy compression out of that saw with a few tweaks.
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In the States the 441 is not known for being robust. If you can brake the case on a 362, you most certainly can ruin a 441. You might be better off choosing the most affordable option in the long run.
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The rings on the Chinese kits are almost always junk. If you ever use an aftermarket kit(which generally means it is Chinese), get caber rings for the piston. They are available on Ebay. It is what I run on my HyWay kits with no problems. Also, I would reuse a factory circlip before using the new chinese ones.
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Yeah, cuz, Husqvarna never lies about their weights. Would you like to use my 13.6lb 372XPW with full wrap handle for limbing? Really, it's only 13.6 bs, nearly like a 262XP. As for power, come back to me when you use a 500P with a muff mod. So, tell me Niko, are you only arguing with me here because some Indian dude hacked AS?
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It does not weigh anywhere near the same. The 550 would have to weigh one entire pound less than the 346xp - which it doesn't The Echo is nearly one pound lighter without the mm mod. With the mod it is an entire pound lighter. It also has plenty of power. The first time I hefted a CS500P, I thought I had mistakenly picked up a 40cc saw.
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Where are you located? Maybe one of the members here knows a husky dealer nearer you? Another negotiating tool is to see if the STIHL dealer will match the 550xp price. Just make sure it is the 261 C-M.
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The 550xp is an excellent saw. The Echo would need the muff mod to keep up. However the Echo also weighs nearly 1.5 lbs less than the 550xp, which is really where it shines. Another saw to consider is the new 261C-M which just came out(M-Tronic). It is a VERY strong saw, but heavier still than the 550, and likely more expensive. You could not go wrong with any of these saws. They are all quality professional models that will last a long time with proper care. Modding the muffler simply allows the engine to breathe better - it becomes more efficient. Unlike most other saws, though, the Echo is literally designed to have the muffler modded - it is simply a tube insert that pulls out with only a screwdriver. The 450 is a good saw, but you will get a better value in a 50cc chainsaw. If your 435 has been working fine for you, any 50cc professional saw like a 500ES/261 C-M, 550XP, 346XP, will get the job done better and last.
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At 400 quid with VAT and ship, the Echo 500ES(AKA Shindaiwa 502S) is hard to beat. Modding the muffler is simple, requiring no tools other than a screwdriver, and doesn't make it too loud. Echo CS500ES Petrol Chainsaw
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While you can certainly do more work, faster, it's not just about efficiency. A lot of it has to do with being able to use a smaller saw for the same work(and in this case, it appears a muffler modded and timing advanced 150 could do much of the work a 200t could do). It also has to do with having a saw that responds better, and has more torque in the cut. I have a ported 50cc saw that has been used in forestry for 3 years now. It's paid for itself several times over. SO, I personally think the risks are worth the rewards. As for the pruning saw debate - the wood Brad is using in the video is simply to show the differences between the two saws more obviously. Even so, there's far more differences than meets the eye in a cookie-cutting video. Brad is claiming a nearly 30% better cutting speed with the muffler mod and timing advance.
