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I forgot to add - I do not trust the circlips or the piston rings that come with AM kits. I always get OEM rings and clips, or at least use Caber brand rings.

I have spent a lot of time with a few aftermarket cylinders. The worst case scenario is the chrome comes off near the ports due to bad bevels and, well, bad chrome plating; assuming it is chromed and not NiSi. Then there's the ports and the aforementioned bevels. I have only seen bevels as good as OEM on one AM cylinder, and I promptly removed and redid them all due to porting the thing. I will always redo the bevels on any AM before I install them. I have a few buds whom have been bit by them and have lost rings and some top ends due to it. The castings are often a bit crude. I have one where the spark plug isn't a terribly tight fit, but perfectly serviceable nonetheless(and is the strongest saw I own). I had another come in that I spent about 15 minutes with a dremel cleaning up the intake and matching it to the intake boot because it was so off. In my experience, for the money, HyWay does OK, and NWP do OK nowadays. But I still clean those up before installing them.

This saw started life in the states. It's an American made 361 that lived most of it's life in Washington state near Mt. St. Helens.

Psh, that thing ain't conva-nuttin. It's awaiting a carb transplant from an 044. The 2177 did all the work on that beech:

Let's see what ya got? I guess I should start. Here's the MS361R chillin at the beech. 20" Sugi hanging off of it.

Let's be honest, if you know what you are doing, how often will you have to give someone back a box of bits without warning them first? You should be able to avoid this by informing the customer it isn't worth repairing in the first place, or discuss the worst case scenario with them. You yourself said you have repaired thousands of chainsaws. Do you really want to tell me that you have to fully strip every single saw that comes across your desk so much so that putting it back together would bankrupt you? Give the customer a warning about it. As you well know, a box of bits is nearly worthless compared to a 'spares or repair' chainsaw in mostly one piece. What the customer does with it on EBay is their business. Your business is not ripping your own customers off.

Can ya get a photo of that cylinder and piston to post here?

I sort of have issues with this, too. I mean, at least ask the customer if he wants the saw back in one piece so he can sell it as a parts saw. I know it costs more money and time, but that should be included in your service, and you should inform the customer if further work is to be done, it would be easier if it were in parts. If they want it back together, put it back at no charge as you took the thing apart int he first place and charged them for it. If you are halfway decent, you should be able to put that saw together in a few minutes. Have the customer sign off on the form that he wanted it assembled even though it is non working, and why it isn't working, and let the guy have his saw back so he doesn't lose his parts. Also, I just feel like a failure if I return a saw in parts that came in to me nearly whole. I even put them back together if I know they are coming back to me later unless the customer asks otherwise, and in no small part because I want all the bits coming back to me as well and not ending up on the floor of their shed.

In my ported 444SE video, you'll notice me opening the fuel cap between cut two and three because the fuel cap vent wasn't working right. Some folks forget in smaller saws, many of them have the vent in the cap. On that particular 444SE, the bad vent leaned it out just enough to fry the motor, so she ended up in my hands for $20 and got ported to hell and back. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YT8gmZRllrg]Husqvarna 444SE chainsaw. Ported, piston popped, timing advanced, 230PSI, carb bored 1mm - YouTube[/ame] And that's with standard 3/8 72LP oregon chain on a 16" bar. None of that 325 nonsense

I am very impressed with bike tuners. It takes a lot of work and know-how to have them running well.

After playing with the transfers some more(19* blow down now), and adding more intake, she's a bit more zippy. I am hoping some of that intake translates to torque in the wood. We'll see how she does once she' buried in that beech. I gotta say though - that beech is rock hard. I wouldn't expect the show it gave in that maple. Looking at the plug, I can lean her out a touch more as well.

Here's the beech that came down today. I'll see if I can get some vids with longer cuts using both the 2165 and the 361. It's mebbe 3.5' DBH.

And here's the vid of it after I finished clearing the road from some of the fallen Beech we had lost in today's storm: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzeF6_zIq_o]Jonsered 2165 BB test cuts with new piston - YouTube[/ame]

OK, nearly a full tank of fuel through her today just testing her and clearing a fallen Beech from the road. Much of the beech isn't touched. I'll do more vids on her when the time comes. This tree fell at the corner of the animal rescue I volunteer at most days. Pushing 177 or so after 3/4 a tank using the Mercury outboard compression tester. The Proto said 176, so at least I know I can trust this gauge as well(it's way easy to use): Plug looks OK. I can prolly get another 500 RPM out of her. She's just north of 14K right now.

That 242 responds extremely well to a simple muff mod and gasket delete. Here's a 42 special I did for a mate in Dorset that is very midly ported. No base gasket, dual exhaust muffler, a little bit of massaging inside. It is one of his work saws. Your 242 would beat this 42sp into the dirt with the same mods. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhwqeIv1lHA]Ported 42 Special - Before and after porting. - YouTube[/ame]

I think's that's why she was giving me that look in the first place. That was on skype. I was, like, "I gotta capture this look" and hit the prnt scr button. As far as boost or finger ports, how deep ya go depends on how hungry you think the thing is gonna be, how wide ya want the port, how much meat is on the cylinder, and how crazy you are. It's a LOT of work. And they really aren't built to last - you are asking your rings to do a lot of work. It's really only for competition or showing off. A know a guy built a Partner with finger ports, and well, here it is: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaDUI_JICgI]Partner S65 9pin 10x10 - YouTube[/ame]

That's a bud of mine in Washington State. I think that's a 3120 or maybe a 394. I forget. I've only done fingers on a 55, and I recall that one blew up. That's two saws I have had actually explode on me. My 444SE blew it's top off at 245psi. Well, it blew the threads. My guess is they were torqued too much. I tore my 2165/2177 apart last weekend. Part of the pop-up un-popped. Compression dropped considerably. Somehow the part that came off did virtually no damage to the cylinder. It just made a mess of the top of the piston and some of the combustion chamber. I cleaned that up. Added a new piston with a taller deck height. So compression is still up about 175 ish. Brought the transfers up a touch. Added 4* more intake to add more velocity to feed the transfers. I'll see about vids this weekend. I dunno, doubt my girl is gonna let me spend much time away from her. She's Irish. Don't make her angry. You won't like her when she's angry. This is her when she is mildly unamused because I'm a smart arse:

And don't forget to up the compression to 220psi, set your transfers to 16*, add finger boost ports, and set your exhaust to 185*. And the stock Stihl carb won't feed that beast at that point.

They are the same file. I use Save Edge and Oregon often. Save Edge are particularly good for refreshing chain that hit debris. I prefer the Save Edge.

The Stihl M-Tronic seems to be very reliable.

If you get either, make sure to get the M-Tronic versions. They are much more stout.

I couldn't find the 066 data, but his 260/026 data basically mirrors what other bike and saw builders have seen. I just noticed that he also saw a greater than 20% improvement in cut times.

This is a snippet from a thread Timberwolf of AS posted a few years back where he modified an MS260 in stages and took down some data. I found it very interesting, especially the heat part. Most saws have very tiny exhaust outlets. I am not surprised they cause the motor itself to heat up: The muffler modification entailed 5 steps. 1 stock 2 stock muffler redrill existing outlet to 7/16 and add one 7/16 hole 3 add one more 7/16 hole 4 join 3 holes and square opening to 7/16 x 1.5 inch plus file back and open deflector angle. 5 match exaust port to muffler The test consisted of the folowing steps 1 measure temp with saw cold roughly 7 degrees C 2 start and idle saw for 2 min monitor temp until stable 3 measure idle sound level 4 cycle saw to full RPM 5 times and record max sound and rpm 5 cycle saw between idle and full rpm for 1 min and measure temp 6 cut 3 disks and measure temp 7 allow saw to cool befor next test AND HERE IS WHAT I FOUND ----------------------------------- Stock muffler opening 0.11 sqr inches --------------------------- RPM 13450 Idle sound level 80.2 db Max sound level 97.1 db Idle temp muffler 64 C Idle temp head 60 C Cycle test temp muffler 119C Cycle test temp head 68C 3 cut test temp muffler 183C 3 cut test temp head 105C 3 cut test time 8.5 sec Muffler with two 7/16 openings total 0. 30 sqr inch --------------------------------------- RPM 13650 +1.5% Idle sound level 84.9 db +5.9% Max sound level 99.5 db +2.8% Idle temp muffler 62 C -3.2% Idle temp head 58 C -3.4% Cycle test temp muffler 89C -33.7% Cycle test temp head 62C -9.7% 3 cut test temp muffler 164C -11.6% 3 cut test temp head 96C -9.4% 3 cut test time 8.0 sec -6.3% Muffler with three 7/16 openings total 0.45 sqr inches ----------------------------------------- RPM 13750 +2.2% Idle sound level 87.1 db +8.7% Max sound level 101.8 db +4.8% Idle temp muffler 56 C -14.3% Idle temp head 55 C -16.4% Cycle test temp muffler 88C -35.2% Cycle test temp head 62C -9.7% 3 cut test temp muffler 147C -24.5% 3 cut test temp head 105C -12.9% 3 cut test time 7.6 sec -11.8% Muffler with one 7/16 x 1.5 inch opening total 0.66 sqr inches -------------------------------------------------- RPM 14000* +4.1% Idle sound level 89.9 db +12.1% Max sound level 103.0 db +6.1% Idle temp muffler 54 C -18.6% Idle temp head 52 C -15.4% Cycle test temp muffler 82C -45.2% Cycle test temp head 61C -11.5% 3 cut test temp muffler 143C -28.0% 3 cut test temp head 85C -23.6% 3 cut test time 6.9 sec -24.6% * mixture richer by a hair RPM = 14100 before adjustment Exaust port matched and smoothed --------------------------------------------- RPM 14050 +4.4% Idle sound level 89.9 db +12.1% NC Max sound level 103.0 db +6.1% NC Idle temp muffler 54 C -18.6% NC Idle temp head 51 C -17.6% Cycle test temp muffler 82C -45.2% NC Cycle test temp head 61C -11.5% NC 3 cut test temp muffler 143C -28.0% NC 3 cut test temp head 83C -26.5% 3 cut test time 6.7 sec -26.8% Discs were 12" spruce. He also stated, "...gains don't seem to be falling off too fast so I will likely open up the muffler a wee bit more in the future."