wyk

Says JASO FD on the back there, so prolly good stuff. It claims to be tank premix compatible, so should work fine. I can't say much more as I haven't used it myself, but others on some forums have said it works for them. Follow standard chainsaw mix ratios and you should be alright. I run all mine at 40:1.

The only caveat with SIlkolene is to make sure it is synthetic esther and not castor or kart or racing oil. Avoid castor in a chainsaw unless you tear it down often.

Thanks, Bud. Just don't ask me to move it!

Here's my first attempt at outdoor furniture:

The MS391 you suggested costs the same as a 550xp and 555, and has a lesser build quality. The 555 is the better choice by far with more power and nearly 2lbs less weight. This, I am sure, you would find difficult to deal with. Without Stihl's policies that protect it's dealers with inflated prices on homeowner saws, the Husqvarnas are the better choice for the consumer. The OP included.

Some folks have asked me if I could explain what a saw does when it detonates. I happened to have caught it on video. Since this is a lil cheaper ECHO, I decided to run it a bit and show folks what to expect with severe detonation on a saw since I had little to lose.

SM, You have a lot of great options in that price range. I would go to the local dealers and heft the saws mentioned to see how ya feel about packing such a thing. I suspected the Scot would not return after his post, so I may put this point to you - the MS391 will sell for nearly the amount you quoted, yet is heavy for it's displacement(nearly the same weight as a 70cc professional saw), have less power at that price point, and with a plastic chassis VS magnesium. I would ignore his suggestion. In the 50cc range: Echo 500ES(if you can find one, they basically sold out), Husqvarna 550xp's, 555's, 545's, Dolmar 5100 series, and the Stihl 261CM should all get the job done in that price range, go easy on fuel, be lightweight, and last a long time all being professionally built. The 555 is a particular bargain and is a 59cc saw to boot. If I were you, I would go with whichever one of these you fancy that your local dealer has.

He never did answer my 420 question, either.

How much do you guys up there charge for a plastic chassis homeowner saw like an MS391?

We'll try and get this thread a bit more back on track then, shall we? These were posted over to AS by Randy: Did someone mention clean up?

52 is for a 14 or 15" bar depending on the make. Get the bar code off the base of your bar to be certain. It should read sumfin like: 140DGEA041 Make sure the gauge is right(the width of the drivers) I am running 52DL 91VXL on my 33cc Echo right now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYWoIr9xzlU

Technically, Makitas are blue Dolmars(rebadged by Makita). However, some claim there are carburettor differences, etc. In the states I hadn't noticed much difference, but I have only used the 6400 series there, which has the same carb the 7900 Dolmar do. So they both work rather well, if you ask me. Saws are like any tool, branding and brand affiliation will greatly affect the public and professionals perception of the product, regardless of any real differences. Makita saws are a great example.

That's cool. I'd rather a 420, anyways.

What are 421's goin for now, bud? And wots the diff tween em and the 420's?

-this-

So here's sumfin completely different. This is my carving saw. A bud of mine got an Echo 330EVL about 8 months ago and put up a thread on AS repairing and porting it start to finish. I took interest as I needed a tiny saw for detail work on furniture. When one came my way for dirt cheap, I jumped on it. Since I only needed it for carving, I didn't bother porting it. I didn't even bother removing the lower gasket. Still, after seeing his vids and the lackluster stock performance, I did have to make a couple of mods. I spent a solid hour and a half gutting the muffler, and smoothing the intake passages and exhaust gaskets. I then advanced the timing nearly 50% of the key. This turned out to be too much at first since Echo was using some pretty aggressive timing to start, and got me detonation after a few long cuts. I set her back to about 25% of the key and she's much happier now. For a lil 33cc saw with a 14" bar, she has a load of torque. This is her in some very hard seasoned beech with straight out of the box Oregon 91VXL chain, which turned out to be pretty grabby in this wood: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYWoIr9xzlU

I'd get a Shindaiwa 452S long before a Stihl 251 or 250. The Shinny is a pro build, whilst you are stuck with homeowner build in the 251. Shindaiwa 452S Petrol Chainsaw

Their Germany military helmets make great logging hats.

Of that list, I would avoid the 455r. It is purely a home owner's saw. The rest should do fairly well. If I had to suggest one, it would be an MS261-CM. Loads of torque and power for up to 2' logs.

Gezuz guys. After living in Ireland a few years, I seriously wouldn't know where to start. Sometimes I wonder if the phrase 'customer service' means anything to most business owners.

Got a new B&C for the lil Echo 330EVL

There's such a thing as a cheap 36" bar in a Stihl mount?

In the States what helps Makita, Echo and Efco become popular is their attachment to hardware chains and big box stores like Home Depot and True Value, or rebadging as with John Deere, etc. The US has a very strong DIY culture, often willing to pay a bit more for perceived quality in tools like chainsaws. Very few homes outside the immediate city centres would not have a chainsaw, if not several. Add in a lot more serious storms than we have here, and they become essential kit in many places in the US.

OK, here she is on her first big cut. This is mostly seasoned Beech, bit of rot at the center as you can see. She is tuned for 13.9K out of the wood. Running a 22" bar, 78 link chain, with an 8 pin rim still. She's not as fast as the 77cc top end, but she still pulls an 8 pin rim with authority. Here's the two compression tests on her warm: 30 year old Proto: New Mercury Outboard Tester: Vid: