wyk

McCulloch PM800

The edge of the files face forwards, sort of like petals on some files. Once that edge is gone, the file stops sharpening. The edge starts to disappear rather quickly and they become replaced with a top plate. When you lightly scrape them the opposite way, you remove debris and help the edge face more forwards. It is just a light scrape as you pull the file back. In any case, this makes literally no sense at all. You sharpen knives by hand with the cutting edge facing the sharpening surface and square ground cutters are always sharpening by hand with the file entering the opposite way most use a round file. This knocks off the bur and leaves a very sharp edge. As you can easily see with my videos - especially the second one as you have likely never seen chips that large fly out of a mid-sized chainsaw with 3/8 chain. If you have, they were using a mild race chain. An order of magnitude... Are we talking exponential? It depends on what the cutters are made of. We all know that files are usually W2 tool steel. Cutters are usually a closely guarded secret(as are drive links and straps), but any engineer can figure it out. Generally, cutters are high carbon steel. They do not need to be too shock resistant, and they do not need to be rust resistant as they are always oiled. This type of steel is usually hardened from 56-58hrc. W2 is about 62-65 HRC for files. I'm not sure if this qualifies as a 'magnitude'. What it means is they will both scratch each other's surface, but the W2 will last longer doing it. And neither do we. We brush it gently. Again, theory is theory, practice is practice. If you don't like it, feel free to ignore us.

And if you get a bit creative with your chains, you can make one do this on a non ported 372 pulling a 28" bar in maple.

Theory is theory. I posted a video of what my chains do.

Done right, it sharpens both the cutter and the file, and loosens debris from the file. In the end, it's not what a micrometer says, it's what the wood says.

In that size(45cc) I would go with the Shindaiwa 452S before a 450 Echo - especially since the cost is nearly the same. The new Echo 500ES/P is basically a 50cc 452s/502s if you can find it. All 50cc+ Echo's are Shindaiwa manufacture. Shindaiwa 452S Petrol Chainsaw

When hand sharpening square ground chain, you would actually put the file into the other side of the cutter from round ground to get a sharper corner.

A LOT of parts are Chinese made. However if you do not know what you are doing, you could easily get the Chinese knock-off of a Chinese part..

That 361 shouldn't have a limiter. Can ya do us a favor and give us a photo or two of the carb, the saw, etc? It sounds to me you can't avoid replacing that carb. Do not get a chinese one. They are usually of very poor quality and will not last, and some won't hold a tune, either. You an possibly try someother folks here, spud, or the local smalle ngine shop to see if they have a spare they would let ya test with, if it works - keep.

Did you say the butterfly wouldn't fully close?

The funky handle also has a high discharge clutch cover and a high output oiler.

The 461 has quad ports, the second Stihl to ever have them, and take very well to porting.

I wonder what the tackifier is on Husky and Stihl bio oil, as it does not modify their specific gavity/density much at all from that of Veggie oil(0.92 g/cm³@15C for STIHL Bio Oil - the exact SG on Rapeseed) according to the MSDS, and both state they are completely biodegradable. In all my use the last four years, all of it being 100% Rapeseed oil with no added tackifier, and nearly all of that put through ported saws, I haven't noticed much difference in performance or bar wear. In case folks were wondering, all grades of STIHL bar oil, light through heavy, have densities from .88-.91, so basically very similar to rapeseed even in their petroleum-based chain oil. Rapeseed and heavy petro should flow similarly.

First get photos of the thing, show it to the seller, and ask him if he can do right by you. If he balks, go to ebay and paypal - they will side with you, and the seller knows this.

Exactly. Maybe it was parafin with a single "f", which is wax, and not kerosene. Straight engine oil will work fine, you may just need to up the output on your oiler. It was what was used on chainsaws for decades without any issues, including in the mix. Rapeseed oil works fine, too. Again, you may have to increase your oiler output, and not let it sit in the saws idle for too long, or when it's very cold. Rapeseed is what's in bio-oil, up to 98% or so. Spud - have ya tried using a cloth dipped in mix to remove caked bio oil? Works fine for me.

I think green is the smaller tip for easier and safer bore cutting. 3003, at least in large mount, is 12mm. 3002 is 14mm. I can not say if the fit is great as I haven't tried it myself.

3003 bar mounts are 12mm, aren't they? I thought for 14MM you would need to go with a 3002 bar mount. And then you are stuck with 404 tips from the factory if you go new. I think the 3002 in 21"(AKA 22") has a factory 3/8 option. It might work with minimal fussing.

Only Cork and Dublin have anything resembling a postal code. And certainly nothing remotely like the literally awesome post codes the UK have. I occasionally have post delayed due to an incorrect address. However, the Irish post are used to seeing stuff like this. They are fairly good at figuring out where something is meant to be, they will be familiar enough with your name if you have lived there long enough that even a completely wrong address, so long as it was close enough to end up at your local, often will find you. My Irish addy has no numbers or street name. It just says what side of the village I am on. How stuff finds me is simply amazing.

Chad does 5 runs.

I wonder if there is enough meat there to Tig weld it?

To be fair to the manufacturer's specs, the dyno would have to be normalized, or at least calibrated for losses. Right now, Chad only has a rudimentary calibration, which doesn't take into account drive train losses due to heat, environment, or inertial resistance for the dyno itself. Thus, it's main importance right now is straight comparisons. It's a good thing his readings are on the low side. If they were on the high side, without taking into account the losses, then he would really have serious calibration issues. Personally, I like his numbers. I look at them sort of like BHP numbers. It's the HP the wood itself would likely be experiencing. I mean, if wood could talk it would say something like "Yeah, that there feels like right bout 5.7 HP, or so, I reckon."

Exactly. Most use dynamometers simply to compare modifications. Your baseline is the unmodified saw. It's worth noting that some newer saws like the MS461 benefit very little from muffler mods. Others benefit significantly

This is his first iteration. He is on Dyno 2.1 or so right now, but I imagine it doesn't look much different:

Here's a dyno chart a bud of mine stateside did with a 660 stock VS the factory 660 dual port(DP) muffler. He used his own purpose built hydraulic chainsaw dyno: That's 23% more HP at 10,000 RPM with a simple bolt on.

A 550xp with an MM gets on, too.