wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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Until it's broken in, I would avoid the decomp on cold starts. It also makes it easier to hear the 'pop'. And pull it like you mean it. Starting it slow and lazy with the decomp on will flood a lot of saws. Remove the spark screen from the exhaust outlet if there is one.
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I'm wondering if it 'partially' caught a ring on the exhaust as stock. The new XT's are notorious for it ported.
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Was that a 365XT to start? The non XT 365's tend to be bullet proof. Wish I could see the insides before you got the new saw.
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Of the kits out there, the only one I am comfortable building a saw with are the Meteors.
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I understand. However, this is a professional forum. We assume owners are professionals, and make suggestions accordingly. So you can understand how we would suggest it's use unreservedly on this forum. As for lubrication - rapeseed is as good as, or better, a lubricant than most mineral sold as chain oil in my experience, and in formal and informal tests done by the US Forest service, as well as the Ministry of Forestry in British Columbia. Use straight rapeseed/canola, keep your chain sharp, and don't leave it sit for 6 months at a time, and you'll be fine. And that advice applies to everyone.
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In all the cases, the owners only stipulated 'cooking oil' as far as I could discern. We are saying 'rapeseed' specifically for a reason. That particular vegetable oil has qualities perfect for use on a chainsaw. Using any other oil may invite issues. As for oxidation, etc. You can not leave rapeseed or any vegetable oil without stabilizers in your equipment for any extended length of time without chancing gumming issues etc. Our advice was for professionals. I admit I can forget that some people on these forums do not use their equipment on a regular basis. If you let your equipment sit for any real length of time, you would likely be better off with mineral oil.
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Boss got gloopy stuff once, I found adding straight rapeseed to it helped it flow better and prevented it sticking.
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Two of us. Two observations spanning 2 decades. The added viscosity is for non professional chainsaws with lower output oilers. In all the professional chainsaws I have used, they oil just fine with rapeseed, and I have not seen any reduction in bar or chain life or increase in wear compared to mineral oil. My ported 044, which drinks fuel heavily, runs out of fuel with maybe 10-20% of the rapeseed oil left in the tank when I run a 30" bar. Before you made any of your replies, did you do any research on the properties of rapeseed oil for chainsaw use? We did - empirically, and over several years. If you disagree with our advice and experience, that's your prerogative.
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5 years of rapeseed here - never a problem. And nearly all of it in ported chainsaws with long bars. In fact, I have to turn down the oiler on the 25" bar VS the 30. VEGETABLE OIL FOR LUBRICATING CHAIN SAWS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yp89METduwE
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Sounds more like someone decided to put olive oil in the mix.
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Wow. I could use one of those.
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With a simple muffler mod on a 14" bar, the 241 will pull 325 with low rakers without a hitch. The advantage 325 has over picco between sharpening is more than worth it for a little loss in speed to me.
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That right there is what the OP should be buying.
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I was thinking the same thing. I have yet to have a solo land before me that wasn't a full metal chassis with good oilers. The 181's et al are plastic clam shells. Which Solo was the dealer talking up? About long bars, I am of a completely different mind. Get a tad more saw than you need, and you WILL find a use for the entire thing, bar and all. You can over tax any saw, but the smaller it is, the sooner you will be over taxing it, and the less time it will last - especially if it's a consumer saw.
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What is your definition of 'cheap'?
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I think yer better off with the 461, Joe. It's the same weight, with a bit more torque for longer bars. How's yours been?
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big dawgs for husky 390xp- any suppliers in europe?
wyk replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
If he can take a squish measurement, remove the jug and muff for shipping, porting can be easy. I have a spreadsheet that can give me the timing with the squish and stroke info. It's not perfect, but it's close enough to do woods porting. I think I've sent the info to Spud, too. -
big dawgs for husky 390xp- any suppliers in europe?
wyk replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
How you liking those dogs? I find them handy for scribing around bigger trees, bucking large trunks, and in heavy bark. I think overall the Stihl dogs are better, but they can be a bit too grabby on the bottom. I'm considering blunting the bottom ones just a tad to make scribing easier. -
Could that bucking chain be a 91vxl by any chance? They have log top plates and just do not cut smoothly.
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Keep the great pics coming. Here's some tool wearing a 'murca cap:
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I prefer the louvres to adding a deflector if one isn't necessary due to the location. I think they sound better and are more aesthetically pleasing.
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Well, try and keep the chips out of your lap?
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That's one of the main reasons for a full wrap, so you don't have to fight a pushing chain on a powerful saw with a long bar. On a 60 or 50cc saw, it makes no difference. On a ported 70cc saw with a 30" bar, using the pushing chain can be dangerous, as well as more work. If you have the full wrap, you never need use the pushing chain unless you simply want to keep the chips off of you.
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Full wrap is all the way around - hence 'full' And 3/4 wrap(which Stihl calls a full wrap, btw) is the standard Stihl wrap, as seen on this saw:
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That's the one. I liked the ones I have seen on the old 288's and the 266's. I sort of have a soft spot for hot 266's with full wraps. My first husky was a 266xp. I think the largest drawback isn't stump height - it's the fact you have to trim the roots and buttresses some times simply to get the face done or the back cut done.
