wyk

Pull that top end off and have a look.

My last sentence should have read: " This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing an oil ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw". The mix itself may be the same, but the amount of oil reaching your engine is significantly less. And I think it is beginning to show in the types of failures I am seeing in these saws. Saws have always seized or had other lubrication issues. I am not so sure why there would be a need to chance it any further and lean out the ratio ever more except to please the EPA, et al. But, as I have said before, it's your saw, it's your prerogative.

Fuel consumption is VERY relevant. If your saw uses 25% less fuel per revolution/amount of work than previous saws, it is also getting 25% less oil every time that piston goes up and down. This means if you run your new 25% more fuel efficient saw at 50:1, the piston and cylinder are seeing a ratio of closer to 65:1 compared to your old saw.

Yeah, Bitch! MAGNETS! As the RPM's climb, the amplitude of the wave that triggers the system to fire increases, thus advancing it. It is built in to the ignition system design(whether saw or bike, etc). Thus, the saw is easier to start at lower RPM, and has the advance it needs at higher RPM. I know Husky have been more aggressive with their ignition advance lately, and I find little benefit adding ignition timing to most newer Huskies with limited coils. I have assumed Stihl were pursuing something similar, as I have been told advancing the ignition on MT saws is of little benefit. And, to be frank, I feel ignition advance is really only needed if you have a GTG saw, or are competing. In the field, I prefer no modified advance. [ame] [/ame]

I was quoted 100 quid for a 241C MT carb today.

I would hardly call the current generation of MTronic and Autotune comparable to a Tesla S...

You still running like a 16" bar or sumfin? If I had a ported 562, I would be running it with a 20" bar and 3/8 chain. My 43cc saw runs a 16" 325 bar.

I make very little. I'm not even on holiday. I'm here on family bidniss. I am the red-headed step child, but the only family member in Europe. So, when they need to check out things here(real estate and attorneys in Portugal lately), they send me in. So here I am. It's a tough job, but someone has to do it. Personally, I prefer to be in the woods cursing the weather. As for yer pizza, that place is not far from me. I was about 1km away from it earlier today. Portugal and Madeira Photo Gallery by WYK at pbase.com

Spending most of this week in Funchal. Leaving tomorrow morning for Ireland, though. Madeira is Portuguese for 'the wood', btw.

Anything made cheaply is not likely to last. Tools are made out of steel. Steel can vary wildly in it's manufacture, treatment, and resultant fit for purpose. Tools made of high carbon steel are generally finished in chrome plating to defend against rust. High carbon steel can make very robust and long-lasting tools. When plated correctly, they will last a lifetime. I have and use ProTo brand USA made tools that are older than many of the members on this board, and are still nice and shiny with chrome. Saying your steel is chrome vanadium itself doesn't necessarily mean the tools are better, A La Teng. Chromium and vanadium have been used in steel for quite some time. Very few tools would not have some of each in their steel. They add hardness and elasticity when tempered correctly. Just because the tool isn't shiny, doesn't necessarily mean it is not chrome plated. You can still bead blast chrome or give it a brushed appearance. In fact, it is far cheaper to manufacture them this way as polishing takes more time and QC. All in all, how a tool is manufactured and treated is far more important than whether it is chrome plated or not. On the right is a Teng socket I had lathed down to fit the carburetor flange on newer Stihl chainsaws. We'll see if it rusts... And to keep this on topic, this is what's on my bench today. I am currently in Madeira, Portugal.

Horesepower and torque curves cross at 5240 RPM...or so.. Assuming factory tuning, the saw that has 5 HP at 9K RPM has much more low RPM torque than the saw that has 5HP at 11,000 RPM.

Does swapping out the winter shutter make a difference? Does it idle fine? Does it bog? Is the oiler working fine? What exactly is it doing?

The best advice you've received so far was to not buy a saw. The second best advice is you already have a small saw, and you have no need for smaller, so go big. But, since you ave no need for a big saw, see advice #1. What I am suggesting is something affordable to replace the saw you have, to do the work you have been doing normally, as it appears to me that what you want is something new, not necessarily something you need. Happy new year!

Shindaiwa 452S Petrol Chainsaw

Now I am going to imagine a brummy accent every time I read one of Eddy's posts.

For an all around saw like the OP seems to need, I don't see any reason why the current 50cc options won't suit him.

A 361 is lighter and handles better. But the 362CM is stronger. And with just a MM and timing, becomes a very strong saw.

I do it on all my big bars. Not just for a bit quicker chain, but more for plunge or boring cuts. It makes the cut much faster and far less vibration. Not as drastic an effect on larger bars, but you can see how it would cut down on the vibration.

I run a ported 50 or 40cc saw in such wood.

Many strato mods have to do with defeating the strato system. I'm not a fan of this myself. Mitch's mod only partially blends a small amount of mix in with the strato charge, and it only really starts to do so at higher RPMs.

That is still a strato. It only partially blends the mixes instead of defeating the strato entirely. The difference is impressive.

Just sayin...

Spud butchered the diaphragm gasket during the tear down. I'll have a new one tomorrow mebbe.

They likely wouldn't be doing the bumper link by hand. In any case, if it is bothersome, use a non bumper chain...