wyk

He's already informed Windthrown of it.

Gotten bored with AS, Windthrown? I find sawhawgs a touch better, but only just.

And I don't lose much sleep porting saws. I've been running saws since 1989. Not all the folks here are young bucks. I will say this, though - you won't see anyone getting sued or in trouble for having a ported saw. I haven't seen it happen in 25 years, and you won't see it ever happen, either. Porting a saw does not turn it into a monster(unless you port it to be so, which means it's not able for work). It simply makes it run better. Personally, I think you're letting paranoia get the better of you. As I mentioned earlier, folks use all types of saws. Saying a 50cc saw with 30% more power is suddenly dangerous when folks run 70cc saws with half again more power all day, every day, is disingenuous at best.

35 years and you haven't found an advantage? Has anyone ever watched the BC version of HSE videos(BC faller training standard) on how to safely operate a chainsaw and felling? Many of the chainsaws in the video are ported. If you do not work in production, I can see how a ported saw doesn't help as much.

I would argue a ported chainsaw is safer, assuming all the safety mechanism on the saw are operable and the staff is trained. In a 372 ported, you now have the power of a 390xp, but without the weight. The operator now can do the same, or similar work without becoming fatigued as quickly, and with the ability to better manipulate a tool that is now several pounds lighter than the aforementioned 390xp. If the saw is incapable of overcoming the chain brake, it is as safe as any saw with more power that weighs more. Now, if the HSE and the guilds decided to require permits to operate a chainsaw based upon it's displacement and weight, then I can see a legal basis for this discussion. The only legal basis I can see is a chainsaw that is louder may require more hearing protection. I somehow doubt operators will start increasing their lawsuits based upon hearing loss if ported or muffler modded chainsaws were introduced. The chain speed is another consideration from an HSE standpoint. But then again, the chain speed on a stock 346xp is far more than on even a ported 390xp. A standard 880 has far more torque than a ported 390, yet there are no higher requirements for both skill set or safety gear for using such machinery. So, there is no basis in increased power being more of a litigation hazard. Having said this, I would think handing any tool that is beyond the skill set of your operators is not a terribly wise decision. Choose wisely.

Don't run with cizzers

I'm down in Tipp at the moment. If you are in NI, it costs nearly the same to ship there to here as it would be to spud. So there's that to think about. As for the saws you mention: The 241 responds well to simple timing and muff mods. I very rarely modify the timing on a customer's saw, though. So keep that in mind. I only know one person whom has ported the 241 to date, and he lives in Tennessee and is extremely talented. The 372 is fairly easy to mod, and responds extremely well to porting and muff mods. The same can be said for the 660. A simple dual port muffler will wake it up, as well. A muffler mod alone on a 550 and a 562 really wakes those saws up. BTW, I would like to know where ya got a 562xp in Ireland, if you don't mind my asking. Feel free to PM me if you've any questions.

I don't have the weight on a 660 - but it isn't much more than a 390/385xp in my experience - just a boatload more vibration. For felling all day, I would prefer a ported 390 for the AV over either, and the fact it weighs 2lbs less than a 394/395. On the ground, or as an occasional saw, it doesn't really matter much.

Bud of mine uses black light(UV) paint or ink, and covers it with clear nail polish or some sort of similar stuff if I recall. Hit it with the uv light and it shows up clear as day and doesn't look marked at all otherwise.

If ya ask me - it looks like it was put together without circlips in the first place...

Advancing the timing makes a big difference as well.

It's a very poorly made, and likely unsafe to use chainsaw. Personally, I also would chunk it into a skip. I wouldn't even bother to give that to someone unless I happen to not like them much.

It's Europe, Niko - stihl is 63, husky is 58 - always and forever

So long as it doesn't enter the intake port, you're golden(and the port need not be beveled at that point). I was worried it was one of the 38's that had the tonsil where the ring rode on. Without it, the ring enters the intake port, which means it may wear or get caught without a bevel. The tonsil also keeps the oil on it, if the ring enters the intake without riding the wall, it will slick the oil on the bottom of it onto the intake port floor, which you would rather it be on the cylinder walls, really. But it seems your one avoids all that. Cheers!

Does the piston ring impinge upon the intake port on the model you have? If it does, and you've removed the overhang, make sure to bevel that port. It is not only to keep the ring in check, but also to keep the ring well lubricated.

Wish I could say the same about myself.

Forgot to add, on a new saw, sometimes the L screw setting can have that effect. Make sure the idle and L screw are adjusted well. Set the idle to where it's healthy, but not moving the chain, then turn the L screw open until it starts to stall, then back off 1/4 turn and blip the throttle to make sure it's responsive(a rich L screw can have the effect you are describing). Make sure the saw is still happy with the throttle, then go cut and see how she does. Make sure the H screw isn't too lean as well.

I hope you didn't grind out the tonsil if it had one on the intake side? That's to keep the ring in check.

If it's 4 months old and the fuel tank has more than a puddle in it when you are doing this - IE it is easily reproducible, you need to take her to a dealer for inspection under warranty. Can you get us a video?

Wow, that meteor is huge. I'm gonna go clean up that cylinder now, I reckon.

Pleez And thanks for that, bud!

I forgot to ask - does anyone have an 064 piston laying about can measure the diameter to the skirt edges? I have a feeling my ports may be a bit too wide on this HyWay to save it and use an o64 piston.

Marketing is finding new niches to sell products to. At it's finest, it is creating a niche that doesn't even need to exist, and then convincing a consumer that it is a product they must have. Husqvarna are not immune. In fact, they have it mastered even better than STIHL with their 555 and 365xt as slightly detuned pro saws at the factory.

Modding the timing gives similar results to adding width. The only problem is you do so on a 38 at the sacrifice of possible torque if you open the exhaust earlier, and you lose some intake velocity adding timing there instead of width, which again is lost midrange torque. Having said that, just adding some intake timing and exhaust alone, with a decent muffler mod, and you will see a big difference throughout the entire power band.