wyk

They wear great, are relatively light, and cost about the same as STIHL ES bars.

Tap your save edges out if they are clogging. I have them do that on occasion. They last a good long time for me.

It would be better on the inside because the insides are machined. Having said that, I have seen some woeful castings by Stihl. Hook it up to a compression gauge. I am curious to see what it blows.

That's the tightest squish I've seen so far for standard. That thing must have been running fairly well stock. If I recall, my 385xp was pulling 178psi with the gasket delete before break-in. It wore an 8 pin rim with a 32" bar in douglas fir.

Nice one. I did a bit of cutting today and noticed the 2165/2177 big bore was pulling pretty strong. It'd been about 20 tanks or so, so I went ahead and put her under the gauge. She blew north of 190 psi. Not bad.

Those are stock numbers, btw. Not ported. The exhaust is real high for stock on an 88cc saw. I would remove the gasket and not raise it any.

Hope ya didn't wrench too much on that upper AV mount. Looks like he got his saw stuck. Here's some numbers I have from Parris and Brad in duration and degrees: Ex- 170° duration, 95° ATDC Int- 150 duration, 74° FTDC Tran- 122° duration, 119° ATDC My 390 was very similiar to yours.: Ex-96 Tran-122 Int-76

They are similar. The biggest difference I noticed from a 385 to 390 was the port timing. Like they tailored the actual timing for less emissions VS simply leaning it out and stuffing the muffler. That's why many 385's standard run just as strong as 390's even though they give up some displacement to the 390. Having said that, some of the most impressive ported saws I have run were 390's with tight squish. If I were back in the PNW, I would definitely own another. Ported, they pull 32-36" bars with authority in Douglas Fir with skip chain, and oil them just fine.

The problem Stihl has is they made some great saws a decade ago, then followed up with some mediocre saws. The 661 was promising, but we'll have to wait for them to get rid of the glitches first. The 461's greatest compliment is it didn't gain too much weight and it's better on fuel(but let's be honest, a 6.1 litre Hemi truck is better on fuel than my old 046). I would still say I prefer my old bone standard 046 mag to the 461. Meanwhile, Husky has been tearing the place up with their 555/545/560/562 combo. They had teething problems, too. However, Stihl has yet to answer any of these saws which have been out for years now. The MS261 and 362 handle like the proverbial pig in mud. My wrap-handle MS361 still weighs less than a stock MS362... And for reference, the new Husqvarna 562(which weighs slightly more than the 560xp) weighs exactly what the old MS361 weighed, and I think it's handles a touch better and has far better AV. Stihl have their work cut out for them.

Wow. 390's have much tighter squish than most 372's. I had one at .019 after removing the base gasket.

Now put a pic of it in the photo thread!

That handle won't mend and work safely no matter how good the welder is. Be safe and replace it. There are better things to spend ones time on.

Been using 100% rapeseed/vegie oil for years without a single problem. But, I rarely cut below freezing, and my saws never sit for long.

A transfer port is a port that moves mix from the chassis to the combustion chamber. Finger ports and boost ports are transfer ports. Boost ports add fuel to the front of the cylinder and help to move the gases towards the exhaust port. Finger ports are any port that you carve yourself out of the cylinder that are open ports.

High pressures, special carbs and injection, rotaries, etc etc. Somehow I think a rotary engine is gonna be a bit much for saw work. I'll get back to you on the transfers etc in a bit here, Dekay. I got to go cut some stuff down first.

I imagine many women are also afraid of said flow.

Eh... I made all that up. Saws are witchcraft.

A boost port is usually diametrically opposed to the exhaust. Extra transfers simply give the engineer more opportunities to tailor how and when the ports flow. Like with any two stroke motor, it is very important how the exhaust and the intake charge flow and react to and with each other. With chainsaws, it's very important to fill up the chamber as much as possible with an incoming charge, which pushes out the left over gases, yet doesn't start to shove some of it's own intake charge out that same exhaust port. It's not possible to avoid it, really, unless the saw is running very lean and has a lot of back pressure from the muffler(as with most modern factory saws nowadays). The best way to tune a two stroke engine is with a tuned exhaust pipe - but these tend to get in the way if the machine is used to sawing. How a pipe helps retain the incoming fuel charge: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_BGFb13Obg]Animation - How two stroke engine works. ? - YouTube[/ame]

Had you left it unlocked, I wouldn't have had to use the brick.

I've imported loads of stuff from the US and abroad(especially the UK to Ireland). Duty is another word for Tax. It's both revenue and protectionism. I only import what I can not find locally easily. Or if the locals take for freaking ever, which seems to be their want often enough.

Nope, not for racing. Just ported, modded, and machined for standard woods work. It's just more aggressive going about it. Some folks run 16" 3/8 on their 361's. I run that on a 44cc saw(and it's not even broken in and leaned out in this vid yet): [ame] [/ame]

You need to get a better pic of that full wrap 560

Spend some of your youth apprenticing on a Japanese 'research vessel'?

If they use the saw in the PNW(Pacific North West), they have a full wrap and larger dog set up available for it. If you are felling large conifers, you really basically must have your saw set up that way - plus higher output oilers, square ground chain, longer bars, porting etc etc. Even Dolmar and Echo are on the scene.