difflock
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Everything posted by difflock
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My father was an advocate of "Boss White" on bigger compression fittings, he figured the lubrication from the linseed oil was as significent in getting them properly torqued up as was the sealing effect of the clay fines. I still got and use an ancient tin, though it needs freshened-up with Linseed oil. P.S. Plumber Mait is a non hardening compound for bedding sanitary ware etc. Not for compression plumbing fittings, at least per the wording on the tub I rescued from a skip! P.P.S. Being still a young man, I never ran across Imperial copper pipe before! Back at it today. Thanks all, mth
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I had been aware that the Imperial system was based on internal bore size, and the newer-fangled metric system was OD based. But that very clear explanation was spot-on. Anyway, do the push-fit fittings sealing with "O" rings be intended to be a "one size fits all" solution and the 22mm fitting will work on 3/4 pipe, or is that chancy. I ask because the previous occupant who installed the Charnwood has "Teed" in with modern push fit shit on the 3/4 pipe beneath the floor. They were apparently not leaking, but are unsettlingly slack on the 3/4 pipe. I was in a notion of replacing them with capillary or compression fittings, ***to be sure to be sure. Cheers, Marcus, ***Edit, To say to be sure to use imperial compression rings per your sage advice OSM. Thanks
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Gas boiler btw. No idea, it is for the daughter who done the paperwork, for her house, it was presumably a multifuel. She is in the notion of a gas stove though I favour a smaller woodstove for room heat only. Cheers m
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Apologies for not beiing Arb related but ah dinny indulge on any other forums. Anyway, I was gutting out a host of crazy convoluted plumbing relating to a monsterous 18kW Charnwood stove that is being removed as a condition of getting a grant aided gas boiler installed, tracing pipes and labelling them for the plumber. I had had to replace the totally siezed stopcock on the 15 mm incoming mains. Ho hum, no worries. Plus stop-ended the 2 No. 28mm pipes coming in(and out!) from the old oil boiler located in the garage. Ho hum, no worries. It was not until I went to re-route a 22mm pipe that I realized it was actually 3/4". Which would probably, in hindsight of course, tally with the 1970's build. So old 1/2" is indestinguishable from 15mm and old 1" is indestinguishable from 28mm. But 3/4" is nearer 21mm than 22mm. Why Why Why . . .
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Usual barstewarts! Anyway, IF one has to do a course to run an electric truck at 4250kg. Why does it have to be electric? IF one has to do a course. Barstewarts!
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Starting a Petter PH1 single cylinder Diesel engine
difflock replied to Baldbloke's topic in General chat
In the exhaust? -
Just to say, "it does what it says on the tin", coverage wise. The floors were presumably the original 1970"s softwood, and sanded with 60 grit. As near as I could be arsed to measure 58 m2, so 2 coats just shy of 120 m2. And used a "dreedle" less than 2 tins, so just under 5 litres. Stated coverage was 24m2/litre. So dead on! Very impressive honesty on the part of Osmo.
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When you need to feel the Earth move . . .
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Smells of "Scratch a hippy and you find a millionaire"(somewhere in the previous generations)
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See images from today. First 2 are floors with the 1st coat on. 2nd 2 are of some of the crud I hoked out of the seams. A wonderful collection of fluff, stones, dried in paint and chewing gum, plus quite the collection of nails and hairpins. Yeaugh! Said hoking should have been done prior to sanding, but I was not in charge! However to reiterate, a wonderful product and a pleasure to apply. Getting about 3/4 the quoted coverage with the first coat. Be interesting to see the coverage with subsequent coats. Marcus
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Course, being an Ulster lad ah unnerstan the lingo, if no the anachronisms.
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A useful guide! Mother of God! All the Line of Duty lingo, jargon and acronyms WWW.BT.COM What’s a CHIS? What's cuckooing? Know your Reg 15 from your OCG? Here’s our quick guide to explain all the acronyms...
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Oddly enough, one of my better picks was the bought-new 4 panel doors for the house we got built. Everybody else was picking 6 panel, but the 4 panel looks better in the contemporary/modern/smaller format. Still annoyed I only specced a couple of the internal doorways at 2' 9", when the bloody doors turned out to be the exact same price as 2' 6" ones. Thanks again.
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Well seeing as my last enquiry was so helpfully answered. Any recommendations re standard internal doors, or who/what to avoid? Locally all I seem to be able to get is engineered/veneered "shite"(at least in my opinion) Cheers m Btw. She would NOT be replacing but some blaggard took off the good sapale doors that would have been 1970's fitment and fitted shitty cardboard doors that are physically "in bits" with peeling panels and broken bevelled glass.
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D-D-D "And a month later, planted a mature birch in its place"? ? ? Curious is all.
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640 clout(is it?) nails and umpteen broken off carpet securing staples countersink in 90 mins. So that's a good start. And, hooray! Osmo Poly X is a runner! Well Doh Dad! Like Obviously! (I blame her mother!) Thanks Again all who advised.
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Images, I hope?
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Osmo Poly x appears to be the clear winner then. I will attempt to broach the subject tomorrow then. Thanks all. DoD.
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Quite wrong, she has bought 2 houses already without our help, and anyway, why should I not indulge a hard working daughter. Cheers. DoD.
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I am a fan of the Osmo products, and used a dreedle in the arse of a can to do the saddle boards.(which I had removed) but her will not pay that sort of money. She is ogling a fancy Italian handbag though, but that would be classef as an essential purchase you understand! Btw. She hired a drum floor sander, and there was zero issue with protruding nail heads.The shitty varnish/carpet glue did gum up a couple of belts prematurely though.
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BB. Do you mix the sawdust through the 2 pack varnish, like through all of it? I guess from your wording and presuming the 2 pack acts like the stuff they use for the deeply fissured/rotten wood table tops and that you are using it to fill the gaps/cravesses in your Georgian floor? I doubt work daughter will "spring" for 2 pack, or be prepared to use such volumes. Thank you all btw. Cheers Marcus P.S. Her be for spending her valuable time off today sunbathing at the boat club. While her would done retired Da goes out to do a 10 Hr days work!
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Thank you. That was my though too. I may persuade her to let me countersink them a bit first. But they were simply varnished over before. Without issue. P.S. Johnstone's Polyurethane floor varnish, as far as I am aware, the tins no longer being here. Cheers again. Marcus
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The daughter's house, she has sanded the floors, which were previously exposed and varnished(polyurethane presumably?) which has left the nail heads bright and shiny. She does not want to take the time to countersink and fill every nail, nor does she mind seeing the nailheads. She has purchased Johnstone's polyurethane floor varnish, but it says not suitable for over metal, plus the bloke in the store told her she would need to countersink and fill each and every nailhead. The floorboards are quite rough, hence her lack of concern with "seeing" the exposed nailheads. Thoughts, please. Marcus
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It ud be a wile long drive to Cork, but . . . Iffen the pubs dont open soon . . .
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Converting log splitter to single handled operation
difflock replied to Gav73's topic in Firewood forum
You got a sad face purely because I was disappointed in your lack of perspicacity.
