aswales

OK, so you are trying the chain yourself. So for someone commercial to switch and benefit financially from switching the first trigger is the risk (I'm not taking just safety here) include the economics. So capital cost, frequency of sharpenings, chain life/replacement frequency, how many times can you sharpen, cutting performance..etc If any of these is radically poorer take up by pro tree people will be low. A tree crew under time constraints to get the days work done ringing up wouldn't be happy if there days cutting took more time or they overrun due to the chain etc... Different for occasional users...not so important... What could be worthwhile is a number of organisations working together in a benchmarking exercise on chains include the well knowns and some of these you're trying to get to a reasonable position in the market. Are forestry journal, forestry research (Roslin,) doing anything ? Is it worth talking to them ? You are making a serious and passionate case about this, got to respect that... Even odd VAG group parts are made by suppliers in China... If you can get some people working with you and a proper case study together where the economics and other aspects stack up..., not just a few random guys feeding back on this forum on a cheap Chinese chain purchase....that could be worthwhile

OK, get your points, my comments on my opinion on risk...Chinese chain has been around for years...I've experienced Chinese stuff that fails when it shouldn't, simple things, so tend to steer clear..Competitive Price always attracts interest... What is your own experience of running it on a saw and how it compares to other chain offerings by the chain vendors we all know and trust, some of which you sell ? There is a report in the forestry journal (online) on the new Husqvarna chain...interesting read...

Rob....its not prejudice its about safety and not just to me.... You have been in this industry for long enough, hopefully done your homework and as far as I am aware have a good reputation particularly on this forum...don't spoil it by trying to push cheaper Far Eastern products...particularly with something as important as chainsaw chain As we all know, the chain is a critical part on a saw it suffers all the stresses of being flung around the bar at high speed with and without lubrication....embedded in the wood A long time ago I left school and studied Metallurgy and Engineering..., life has later taken me in other directions... This Chinese chain - what European/UK testing, verification and comparisons have you/others actually done before you are asking people on here to try ? Has it gone in a lab somewhere and a report compiled along with a couple of known manufacturers chains ? Husqvarna have just built a new chain line, gone to great lengths on analysis and testing... Have you used it in a working environment for 6/12 months without issues ? Putting it out there and asking for feedback from the guys, your tone infers that its our risk.... If there is an accident which comes down to this stuff where does everyone stand ? HSE gets involved, insurance companies, law suits...reputations destroyed Sorry the risk is too great...

I'd want to know that the rivets holding all together are made to the right standard and quality...snapping chains...never mind the price...then the wear rate...wouldn't like an insurance claim for an accident that's down to inferior cheap and nasty Chinese chain...

Do the fakes have the metal tag husqvarna data plate ?

Had also considered a structural wood frame by a company such as Carpenter Oak at Kirriemuir

I've been thinking about building a part log/wooden house for while there are a couple of firms that I've been looking at Fleming homes of DUNs and Hebridean homes.

If you can the models of hydraulic motor/s off the unit try talking to the guys at flowfit, they should be able to help you size a hydraulic powerpack

How much do you want to spend ?

There is a husqvarna stump grinder (based on the 272 disc cutter power unit) on ebay at the moment can just see the remote throttle in the pics...

Had an idea on this - Stihl, Husqvarna, Partner supply a cart/trolley that holds a petrol disc cutter these have a remote throttle arrangement that clamps over the throttle on the disc cutter...local friendly dealer might be able to help...

There is a nice chart against a particular drill from cutwel that tells you what its best at drilling

I buy from Engineering Cutting Tool Supplier | Cutwel Ltd, they have a great range including ones that will drill hard materials...

Just been looking at battery pole saws, has anyone any experience of these ? Oregon PS250 is quite affordable if you can't justify the cost of a Husqvarna or stihl, any one got one ?

Threaded studs can often be replaced, most competent mechanics/fitters should be able to do that for you if you unable to manage yourself. Picture as breezeblock says would be good... Whereabouts are you ?

A quick couple of picks out of the box, perspex and bar to fit yet

Out of curiosity just bought the 48 inch version, looks like a good clone/copy. At first glance quality seems OK.

There are a few books worth a read that cover some of this - The Conversion and Seasoning of Wood - William H Brown There is a collection of Fine woodworking articles gathered together in a book - Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry it Harvesting Urban Timber a complete guide - Sam Sherrill If you want to really get into wood science/engineering - Wood Handbook Wood as an engineering material

Hi, does anyone have any alpine magnum parts ? looking for some body parts and cutters... Thanks

Is this work to be done before the end of 2015 or early 2016 ? What is your spec on the cladding ? Frank Gamwell is literally on your doorstep, Timberking and blades etc... Fraser Robbs at Drymen have supplied Hud-son sawmills into the area... Have you thought of buying a woodland mills unit or timbery M100...doing it yourselves... Can always sell the mill on afterwards.. Always get a bit of consultancy from someone else to get you up and running...

A Timber framers workshop by Chappell is a good how to type book. Also you can download a pdf which is a scan of a old book called Light and Heavy timber framing made easy by Fred T Hodgson

Its a difficult one to judge and get right - if leaves are just emerging on the tree, lot of activity going on with the biology of the tree, take up of water by the roots, flow of fresh spring sap, etc.... Experience the key, try doing it and learn what can work for you. If you can - try milling a section straight away, try another as per Alec's suggestion, leave a piece in the round on bearers off the ground for 6 months then mill. Tree Species handle in different ways - I had a bad experience with some fresh summer felled eucalyptus - milled straight away, sap poured out and the resulting boards were like Swiss cheese - ended up on the fire...

I'd be more concerned about when the timber was felled - timber felled from spring-summer which is full of fresh sap more of an issue....if you're going to do anything decent with it...

I'm trying to get to grips with Dassault systems draftsight, the good thing about it is the cost....there's a free version...

Nice looking machine, who makes it and what does it cost ?