spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Thinking about buying a portec ultra chain sharpener
spudulike replied to hazzygawa's topic in General chat
Got a bench grinder - great tools for truing up long full chisel chains if they have been abused - one word of advice, make sure you don't overheat the cutters - it is very easy to do and will make them impossible to file with a chain plus will burr there cutter and hook. Good tools but learn how to use it properly:thumbup: -
Just blast out a verse of "Smoke on water" Deep Purple - I usually change "water" to woodland, garden, road, street........wherever you are really:thumbup:
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Sounds like a plan - drain the fluids and leave it upside down as you describe for a day. I have had the clutch seize by getting wet in the past so it is probably worth getting some WD40 on this component and soon. I reckon it will be fine, a few drops of water will get pushed out of a hot engine pretty quickly so getting it running and hot with known good fuel is probably more important than getting it 100% completely dry but is definitely worth getting it upside down with the plug out and yanking it over 10 - 20 times.
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My advice is to make sure the crankcase has no water in it - I would drain the fuel and make sure it doesn't contain water - it will fall to the bottom of the fuel, make sure you spray the clutch with WD40 as well as a little down the bore and get it started ASAP and warmed up thoroughly as any water will rust bearings very quickly. Dry out that air filter and hope it survived - my only repair faiulure was a water damaged saw - the owner had left a mugfull of water in the crankcase and it had welded the piston to the bore. I did free it up and it ran for a few seconds but was knackered due to a damaged bore:thumbdown: The electrics are potted and are pretty resilient against fluid. Good luck
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Got the seals fitted in to the MS460 - never a fun job, easy to get them on the piss as they go in but all went fine, the saw has been pressure checked which was fine and used the new vacuum tester on it and again, it passed the tests. Not far off firing this one up:thumbup:
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Husqvarna 345 - loads of power, sounds great, very good AV - a poor mans 346XP and IMO.......under rated. It will slice through 12" logs no problem. 15" bar recommended with 0.325 chain -standard fitment!
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Bit of a change today, been working on a Piaggio Zip scooter - it has been standing for a year and wouldnt rev up, cleaned the air filter and gave tha carb a tweak and a bit of cleaner and it fired right up. The other one was this Honda mower, the clutch wasn't engaging correctly - have had to strip out the clutch and roller assembly to find the small actuation arm has broken - bugger, an expensive stripdown for a small part!
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Been a mixed bag over the last couple of days, firstly Windfalls MS390 - took these photos for those who don't understand the cconcept of clam style engines - the first two pictures will explain them. The second is a MS460 - did a pressure check, noticed a very slight air leak that became worse once the oiler pinion was off - glad I found it, new seals now fitted and a pressure check to confirm they are sealing correctly. Got a vacuum tester on its way so may test it out on this saw if it arrives in time:thumbup: Just changed the flywheel seal as well although it wasn't leaking, it is more common for the clutch side to leak!
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Been trying to for two months but you guys keep breaking your saws and sending them to me:001_rolleyes:
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Just had a thought - it is probably your saw:thumbup:
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Yes, but selling it on ebay isn't great advice for a saw tech:001_rolleyes: Oh what the heck - if you can't fix it, sell it on ebay:lol:
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Only fault on the 346 is the fact it rolls over when you place it down on uneven ground - just been using my ported one - Vvveeeeeerrrryyyyyy nice:thumbup:
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Mmmm - tiipping it forward and an increase in revvs sounds like the fuel is being taken away from the fuel pickup thus air being pulled in - so, check the filter and fuel line are good. A strange fault - start with factory settings on the carb - I think around 1 turn out on both H&L screws. A dodgy idle can be caused by many reasons, I would start by checking the breather, fuel lines - give the carb a clean out. Inspect the plug, check the coil to flywheel gap and make sure the compression is ok. If you can, check that pressure can be held in the cankcase.
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Just tached the 394 - gotta say that that saw sounds awsome on idle - just like the Allspeeds on RD350s in the day - lots or ring ting ting - nice and metalic....lovely:thumbup: Anyway - it is good to go, revs out nicely 3/4 tankful through it - fab. The MS390 I am doing for windfall is done - that is good as well, tached it and no adjustment needed, 1/2 tank through it and all is good, no damage to the engine when the decomp fell apart mid cut, a bit of damage to the top of the combustion chamber but a new piston & a small end bearing meant that the saw will cut again:thumbup: All good from here - getting the kit to do vacuum testing now so will be able to pressure test AND vacuum test soon:thumbup:
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Typically an air leak will manifest itself in a few ways - uneven idle, racing idle, not being able to reach normal idle speed without having a very rich idle mixture, poor midrange pickup and bogging, very fast top end revvs. Your problem sounds more like the fuel blocking the breather causing the saw to stall - do you often use your saw upside down:confused1: To pressure and vacuum check, you can go one of two routes, purchase the kit from Stihl or design your own kit that does the job at a fraction of the price - it depends how resourceful you are. When faced with £200 on tools, I am very resourceful:thumbup:
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My initial thoughts are the fuel tank breather or the fuel line being bad - hook the fuel filter out and see if the fuel line goes real thin and is very soft - if it is, the pull of fuel against the filter can make it contract and cut fuel. Other than this, check the gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb!
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I hear the views - once I knew nothing about saws but knew much about mechanics, engineering, electronics etc so I looked and learn't with a mix of hands on and the rest from online content - now I am in a position than no saw fault has beaten me:thumbup: I guess some just dive in without knowing and some do the research or talk to others more informed than themselves. I think the real issue here is what would have happened if the guy had got the saw going and had not worn the correct PPE, or the correct mix of fuel oil, the chain tension being wrong, chain direction incorrect etc etc
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Yup - run fluids dry, run the oil pump clean of oil, carb clear of fuel! ................or use the saw regularly like others have said - if you need it sorted....let me at it:thumbup:
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One other comment aimed at some of the advice about mixing 5 litres of fuel to 100ml of two stroke oil, the owner sounds like he doesn't do too much cutting so heed this advice: - MIX ONLY ENOUGH FUEL FOR YOU TO USE WITHIN ONE WEEK - PETROL DEGRADES THE TWO STROKE OIL OVER TIME WHEN MIXED TOGETHER AND MIX OVER ONE MONTH OLD AND MORE SOULD NOT BE USED! Old fuel is the prime cause of seizure - do you really want your piston added to my collection of melted pistons:001_rolleyes: I know it is easier to buy 5 litres of fuel and get one of those 100ml bottles but I would purchase a suitably sized mixing bottle for your use. I hear what the Aspen guys are saying - perhaps overkill for our part time logging friend though!
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Been watching this thread all night, firstly - your operators manual can be found here - http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_EUenAPen/HUSO2010_EUenAPen__1153137-26.pdf It is for the 2010/2011 model so should be the correct one, please read the bits about fuel and chain oil - mixing ratios and correct tanks, read the bit about fitting and tensioning the chain, then read here OREGON Maintenance Manual About chain,bar and sprocket maintenence. After doing this, make sure you have chain/bar oil, two stroke oil (would recommend sticking to Stihl or Husky rather than B&Q) a scwrench - a screwdriver with a box spanner socket on the other end that will fit your plug and your bar nuts. I would also buy yourself a sharpening kit and at bare minimum - a hard hat with face and ear protection - for value - this bunch are very good on price - Mister-Solutions Ltd And lastly, when you break the saw - I can fix it for you, think that may be soon:001_rolleyes:
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Somewhere between the inlet and exhaust ports I think:thumbup:
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The 346XP, a saw with big kahoonas, goes like stink, light and good AV:thumbup:
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Sounds about right but always adjust the idle first and H setting after as adjusting the idle on some carbs disrupts the H setting but apart from that - well done, nice pic and you should be chuffed:thumbup:
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One word of warning, I have known Chinese pistons to be stamped up wrong, a very general rule is the ring pins are generally on the inlet side but have seen that the Stihl 441 is an exception.
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The metering ARM does need setting but to be honest, be careful with it and reassemble as it is - if you don't damage or bend it, it should be ok. The diaphragm moves up as fuel in the metering section is depleted, this puts pressure on the metering arm and allows more fuel in to the metering section - it is like a switch/valve for fluids and is triggered by the diaphragm. Find out what manufacture the carb is and google the manufacture and download the maintenance info - it will help. If you have had the H&L screw out, these will need setting up again, make sure you don't lean the H screw out too much or you may seize the saw:thumbdown: Carb should be a Walbro WS series!
