spudulike

Ah closure, a fine place to be, the charity is the correct one and I know what the next question will be.....how do you fit the new part:thumbup: If the agent won't repair under warranty, get the part and we will help you fit it:thumbup:

Youre gonna hate me.........£100 rifle only from guntrader.co.uk - it is a sort of gun trading ebay but no auctions - private and commercial traders, it is an Airarms S300 PCP, fitted a scope, silencer and Rowan mag on it, very accurate and right up to the legal limit! Oh.....you will need a pump or bottle if you go PCP, Also got an Airarms TX200 springer - Walnut stock.....also a stonking rifle! The S300 is probably worth £250 - £300 on its own:thumbup:

All the MS200Ts and back pack blower picked up and two more dropped off! Just started porting a 357XP and will fit the MS200Ts around that. One has a chain that won't stop spinning and won't shut down, the other is in for a full work out! PS - don't worry, I know what causes the clutch problems and the non stopping issues:001_rolleyes:

Bonjour, comment ca va? Good Moaninng:lol: How is the chainsaw today, half the country are waiting for a response:001_rolleyes:

Mmmm, know what you mean!

Had around 2 or 3 per year but haven't had any for a while lately, no idea why..........

How about the owner sticking in a tenner for the advice given free of charge if it solves the issue:thumbup: Think Barrie has done enough on the crap for cash thread - think he has been watching daytime TV again - just hope he stays away from loose women or God knows what his next thread will be:lol: Got my raffle tickets an all:biggrin:

If a saw won't start using the decomp but will without it, it may be the compression is a little on the low side of good.

You usually get a little bit of crud behind the band but it settles in the cavities around the band and you only get a slight deposit on the raised band support pillars. My money is on the brake being on and the owner is trying to put the cover on with it on. When he pulls his finger out, we will know:thumbup: Shame the picture of the side cover wasn't as good as the rest:lol: I also hate to be wrong - this town aint big enough for the both of us.........and it aint me thats gonig to leave......Sparks!! Just joking Barrie:001_tt2:

Well......being an obsesive, I had downloaded the photo, enlarged it and inspected it - look below and I rest my case, the chain brake is on:001_rolleyes:

It's why I set up this thread - to give people an idea of what can go wrong and how to fix it. Just thought that some of the content on this section of Arbtalk was a bit lightweight and thought it could be done better. 80,000 views and this sort of comment shows the positive effect it has had:thumbup: Thanks for the praise and thanks for the input of others that makes this thread a success:thumbup1:

Just got in after a bit of logging, it looks like Andy and Rich are on the money, the chain brake looks engaged to me and if the side cover is forced in to position then it will foul on the clutch drum.....now we are cooking:thumbup: There are two ways of sorting this, one is to make a tool like Gardenkit did a while back and I am sure he will only be too glad to show us his creation again. Use this tool to disengage the chain brake. The other way of sorting this is to take the bar and chain off the saw, put the side cover back on the bar stud, push the top of the cover against where the star linkage engages with the chain brake handle, push the handle forward and the side cover should move a little more inwards so the star in the chain brake engages with the star cavity in the brake handle. Then push the top of the cover hard against the chain brake handle and crank the handle back toward the top handle and the thing should click as the chain brake is pulled back in to the off position:thumbup: Make sure they engage well as it is possible it will slip and mess up the chain brake handle where it engages with the chain brake cover. It is possible to remove the chain brake handle to get a better fit between the two parts to disengage the brake. I think our work will be done on this one now:thumbup:

Sometimes when you do the bar nuts up, the chain has a tendency to tighten up, what needs to be done (after checking out what the previous poster said) is to loosen the chain a little more and pull upwards on the chain in the upper bar rail and do up the bar nut/nuts when doing this, if it is still to tight, back of the chain tension a little more and repeat until the chain turns freely, is a snug fit on the rails but doesn't hang off the bar. If you spin the chain round by hand, it should over-run a few inches and not stop dead. The above overcomes the bar moving during use and tightening up after a few cuts. Also check the oiler is Ok by revving the saw up with the bar nose sprocket a few inches off a light surface - fresh cut timber works, and look for oil coming off the bar and forming a witness mark of oil on the surface. Lack of oil can cause the chain to tighten significantly with use. Do NOT run the saw with a loose bar nut - the chain may come off and seriously hurt you:thumbdown:

Nice one Martin, looking good:thumbup:

The saw dying when warm, being impossible to start and then starting again when cold could well be a sign of low compression. Compression is best tested with a gauge, anything above 140psi is OK but 150psi is about right for a used saw and aroound 170psi on a low use one. The compression will be less when warm due to the fuel/oil around the piston being less viscous when hot. Like Burrell said, hold the starter handle, make sure the decomp is out and drop the saw, you would expect the saw to pretty much stop on each compression stroke and take tha 10-15 secs to fall to full extension, a rapid drop is bad. Taking the muffler off and checking the piston on the exhaust side is a good quick check - it is possible the saw has had a light seize:thumbdown:

It's never an issue to help a guy get back on his feet again - I just cut my usual refurb bill by half, charge what I pay for spares and slot the repair in as fast as I can. You won't get anywhere near that price and that level of service anywhere:thumbup: Always pleased to help out where I can!

I do have to keep an eye on my "public" as the wife calls you guys:lol: It would be interesting to see how many members actually view the thread and know many of them will be GK, Rich and I:blushing:

I can see that you need a bit of help, helped Mozza out when he had his saws stolen so am happy to do a real deal on fixing up this saw if it helps you get sorted - least I can do for a fellow Arbtalker!

Mad isn't it, just glad so many find it of use and have benefited from it:thumbup:

nah, got her a Wok for Christmas once, still going strong 15 years later and is mentioned regularly:blushing: As for the feather duster.......that was tongue in cheek:001_rolleyes:

Feeling quite excited tonight, got my wife a pie maker for her Christmas present - looking forward to some home made pies now - the trouble will be sitting down with it rammed up me jacksy:blushing:

I usually use a little HT grease to get a seal and allow the rubber to reform a seal on the flange - a pressure check usually diagnoses this fault, the other place for leaks is small holes in the impulse line where it locates on the crankcase!

Not at all Barrie, you don't stay in the game for any length of time as you have without picking up a broad wealth of info. As you know, there are a few hard won jewels that we keep amongst ourselves:thumbup: The KM100:001_rolleyes: fuelled up both and fired them both up, I wanted to see how well the good one idled and revved out. It did both fine and the revs dropped immediately on releasing the throttle. OK - tried the one that was playing up.....perfect on idle and revving out with the revs not holding on as before on releasing the throttle - reckon it was just short of fuel before and was pulling in a mix of air and fuel! We shall see how it goes - The Wolfman is pretty close to me and am sure it will be back if it isn't right:001_rolleyes:

Rich - I have PMed you with some words of wisdom, hopefully they will work:thumbup:

Ran up the five MS200Ts and tached to around 14Krpm, all were sound, at least 10 minutes of idle and revving the knackers off them so all good. This is something I always do, one or two rogues still get through this test and then fail later but this test usually gives me some confidence that the saws will go out and work as intended - I do all I can do to ensure the saw is ready for work. I would cut wood with them but even the wife doesn't burn that much on the log burner:lol: Now on to the KM100 pole cutter. Got a good one so will try the carb off it on the bad one and see what happens:001_huh: