spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Thanks Andy, always a pleasure doing work for you. The vids I did of the 372 are on the whats on your bench thread for those interested:thumbup: Cheers
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Yeah Matty but you throw them out of trees when they won't work:001_rolleyes: Perhaps I could fix a little parachute to yours:thumbup:
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Nice - you aren't servicing stuff again are you Martin - get up those trees again and start cutting!
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They do have a website but never really found an official distributor - just look on ebay and what you can get is what you can get:lol: Only say I have not managed to get one for is the 254XP - just got one for a 371XP I have aquired! Glad it is working well - fitted many of these now and always good results!
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You should be OK, it is only very thin metals you have to be careful with such as the escapment springs on clocks or thin foil. Plastic probably won't clean up as well as metal but there is no good reason you can't use a US cleaner on plastic parts.
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You need to look at the mechanism and work out why it isn't working too well - logic tells me it will probably need bending toward the rear handle but without seeing and playing with the lever, I cant say for sure:lol: Cheers
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The mechanism is latched by a pressed steel spring - make sure this is in good shape as is the plastic lug it pushes in to. Make sure the black shaft and thumb lever that you push to get the choke on is located correctly and is in good shape. This lever can be a bit fiddly and can be improved by bending the spring a little but go carefully.
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Agree Barrie, I even get kit back once in a while - despite taking the care I do and machines getting a cold start 15min run up and cutting wood on the more troublesome ones - it happens but not too often...thankfully. It is really how you deal with the return and sort the machine out from that point - it has taken me up to three months to get a saw back from the owner when it has misbehaved after repair - the latest one was 1/8th turn on the L screw:lol: I think if all agents were a bit more like you, then I would get less business - I am thinking that you like to show your customers their fooked pistons and seized bearings when they pick up their repaired kit .....old school service, you can't beat it!
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Mmmm - North of London territory - now theres a thought:thumbup: My purchases are typically online, ease of purchasing, speed of delivery, having the parts arrive to my home and price are the main drivers. The exceptions are the real heavy stuff like chain oil where picking it up direct can save a £10 delivery charge on £12 worth of oil. Just depends on where I am and what I am doing. I try to bulk up orders as well - buy in parts that a customer may need for refurbing their saw and doubling up on popular parts like sprockets, clutch springs etc. There are some really good online suppliers out there - just need to find them - I have also used some of he sponsers on here like Gustharts and Rob Ds Chainsawbars! I guess if you know exactly what part or material you need then you don't often require the skills or know-how of the dealer - different needs for everyone.
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The main reasons for this sort of damage are bad/old fuel, no oil in the fuel, air leaks and lean carb setting. The engine runs hot and eventually gets that hot that the exhaust side of the piston starts to soften and actually melt through excessive heat. The exhaust side of the piston then smears itself all over the cylinder.
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Looks clean from what I can see - I would re-bevel the exhaust port - especially the top edge as they can get aluminium build up on the edge that can snag a ring or mark the piston. Diamond files or abrasive paper do this well:thumbup:
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Up for sale:thumbup:
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If the stripes can't be felt with the tip of your finger then it should be OK. Many fuel filters can be split for cleaning or just purchase a new one.
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Yes, they do have a habit of blasting out under pressure:blushing:
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Next time it does it, pop out the plug and check the spark, you can try to loosen the fuel cap and see if thet helps, if it does it will be the tank vent. The nost likely fault is poor compression - check it is over 140psi
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Just been vac and pressure testing the crap to gold MS200T - passed fine so now it needs cleaning and reassembling! Also comp tested the Jonsered - 240psi.....wow:blushing:
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The one I had was a typical small US cleaner for normal house use, the latest one is a 3 litre capacity 20-80deg heated tank with 120watts power - I did a test with thick tin foil and it started to disintegrate so yes, I am happy with it - also invested in some proper carb cleaning solution and DI water:thumbup: It has sorted a number of carbs already - no failures:thumbup:
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Wasn't digging Barrie - normally someone says "the saw is fooked":confused1: With the Aspen conversion it is "changed my saw to Aspen and it is fooked! All I know is that I can fire up a saw running on Aspen in the workshop without gassing myself:thumbup: Are we mates again:blushing:
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I'm loving the Aspen as well - guys keep sending me their saws when it messes up their carburation:thumbup: The MS200 was pretty weird - kept bogging on the pickup so boiled the carb in the US cleaner and all good:thumbup: Guess it is just early teething problems - probably frees up all the crap in the fuel system that then clogs the carb up???
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You live and learn - annoying thing is that I cut a bit of wood with it before it went back the first time - perfect....Grrrrrrrrr:lol:
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Another MS200T refurb - took the muffler off and found a novel way of fitting the gasket - can't have done much for the performance:001_rolleyes:
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Always busy, had an MS260 come back after conversion to Aspen. I had fitted a new carb kit and fuel lines and all seemed OK - started and revved out well. It did the same but in the cut it had some weird cuttinng in and out and wouldn't idle. Found the fault - worn earth and kill wires after rubbing against the top AV mount: -
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Or too short..... I keep some very high temp bearing lock for this sort of thing - funny, I usually find these bolts are rock solid after a bit of use!
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When I get these in I always try to salvage the cylinder and then fit a decent quality piston - a new OEM pot and piston is around £250 before you get in to labour. There is nothing wrong with the 357XP - one damn fine saw IMO and have a decent turn of speed - running it with a known fault killed it and not the build:blushing: They have the two M6 bolts holding the muffler on and a further 4 M5 bolts holding the lower support plate in place - reckon the bolts may have just been not tightened enough on reassembly. Avoid the Chinese aftermarket kit as it can be suspect and make sure the saw is checked over if a repair is done - airleaks are best found before the repair is fried again:001_huh:
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No need to run this one in, it has the original piston. It really shifts on a 20" bar - damn good on a 70cc saw - it would be good to compare this one against a 441 - wonder which one would win:biggrin: Thanks for the wood, still got a big stack of it out the front and one of my empty log stores is now 3/4 full! Ed reckons your new arrival may be louder than this saw:thumbup: congratulations again!
