spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Mmmm about par for the course in this game - only had one claen one in many MS200Ts. leaving them like this tends to damage the tie bar and/or break the leaf spring - both these were OK fortunately:thumbup: It now fits and works nicely.
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Part 2 ......todays work, a poorly MS200T - not wanting to rev up, idle not too bad but all round dodgy:thumbdown: The owner wanted if fixed and ported so gave it the full stripdown - the seals were leaking a little so replaced them, ported the exhaust port, lowered the squish and did a muffler mod - started sweet as a nut and revs out well. The chainbrake was full of crud, typical of this type of saw but now operates a lot crisper!
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Got your PM, will be on it in a minute. First one up over the weekend was a 372XP for porting, The first pic shows the standard cylinder, the second shows the mods to the base of the lower transfers, lots of blending and grinding. The exhaust and inlet ports got modded as did the upper transfers. Squish was lowered and a big muffler mod! Needs a tach but feels good: -
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Think we had this conversation before but I use a bit of emery paper stapled to a bit of stout card and slide it between the lifted cylinder and the bottom anvil plate and then use this to sharpen the cylinder - a little dangerous but does the job:thumbup:
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A few things you can do - the checks Rich is talking about are probably the best - if the saw still smokes then purge the oil tank of oil and see if the saw doesn't smoke with the tank empty. You could try pressurising the oil tank and seeing if the saw smokes badly when starting but it sounds like over oiled fuel - 50:1 with modern oils but sounds like someone may have used 25:1!
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Freehand on blunt chains and bench grinder on any mullered chains. Common fault on many chains hand sharpened is that the cutter angle gets more acute as it is easier to file the end of the cutter than the hook. Had one of these in Friday and showed the owner what the line was for on the top of the cutter:001_rolleyes: Still - it was a lesson for life:thumbup:
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I love the old cylinder mowers - maybe working on the cylinder is a PITA but my one is around 30 years old and runs beautifully - made when Britain WAS Great:thumbup:
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he will love that...think he is getting wise to it though!
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Yeah - 3120 - 11500rpm:thumbup:
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MS200T is 14,000max, 372XP is 13,500 max - be careful it may have a rev limiter so edge it up to 13,000 and see if the tach goes crazy and leave at a tad over 13K, not got the figs for the 3120 here where I am!
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Yes, too long in the workshop inhaling carb cleaner:blushing: Given be some weird ideas:001_rolleyes:
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I've done a bit:thumbup: Got to leave some to test the ported 346 and 372 out on and also need some for the latest mod I have planned for the 357XP:lol:
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Porting is the opening up of the exhaust, inlet and transfer ports on a saw and opening up the muffler, sometimes the engine timing is adjusted by changing the heights of the ports. The objective is to get the saw flow better allowing the saw to draw more fuel through so it can safely run at faster revs and make more power, the changing of port heights can give the saw different characteristics such as a wider powerband and more torque. Hope that answers your question:thumbup: Generally you have a louder, more thirsty faster saw that will cut faster than its standard version.
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Thanks Ben - no problem and glad you and the lads are happy:thumbup: Richs estimate is round about right, I change what is worn or broken and leave what is serviceable. PM if you need a price from me as I don't like broadcasting rates but leave my reputation to say if I can do a good job or not!
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Been testing the MS200T ported and muffler modded saw - pretty pokey and cuts well with a 14" bar and would be even faster with a 12" on it. Will be a good saw with lost of go in it. You can see that it has had a bit of abuse from the carnage:thumbup:
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Thanks Andy - always a pleasure:thumbup:
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I have had a steady stream of MS200Ts coming since the MS201 came out, a dealer will be hampered with higher overheads making it expensive for a complete clean, inspect and overhaul but smaller workshops like Riches and mine can do this sort of job with no issues. Done many refurbs/porting jobs and find as long as you do a decent job on testing the vac/pressure/comp etc and have the facillity of sorting the carb issues out then the owner ends up with a decent running saw that will have a decent extended life! I have had a few right offs that have been brought back to life and IMO, for the cost I charge, it is well worth it and seems the opinion of many guys on here!
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All sounds interesting:thumbup: The standard mufflers look like they have a nice big outlet to start with! Be interesting to see what one would do!
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Lots of things you may not do on a standard saw that you may need to actually cut a bit of wood with for any length of time - just think of really going mad with compression, transfer shape, port size, muffler and carb mods - ignition to rip your arm off etc
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The 116 isn't a bad saw, be interesting to do that - 60cc saw and not bad TBH. Even a good one won't be worth much over £120 There are a few trick things that would make for an interesting saw that you may not do as part of a normal mod - be interesting to see what it could do.
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If it is a decent size one - port it:thumbup: Another plan is to port a 114 I have and take it to destruction or glory:lol:
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But Rich, you have forgotten the 262, 254, 346, 266, 357, 395, 3120, 550, 560.......... I hate not doing the FULL job on an MS200, did one where the owner just wanted one issue sorted and it came back a week later with a carb issue, a clutch spring was broken and the starter handle came off in my hand:001_rolleyes: All would have been sorted on my full rebuild service:thumbup: Personally I find them pretty easy now, first one was a baptism of fire but after that - simple....but I have done one or two now:lol:
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Ah:lol: theres a thing - the world and his wife of experts say "richen up the saw or it will seize" - in reality, you are pulling a heck of a lot more air through the carb - anyone who knows about the venturi effect will know that this actually has the effect of naturally pulling more fuel thorough the jets so the carb actually needs leaning off. I have done saws that run at 15,000rpm and are on a tad over 1/2 a turn - 3/4s is quite common on what I do. The telling sign is the plug - generally at these settings it is still deep brown and not the bleached white it would be on a standard saw. There you go - if you don't agree then you probably don't actually know what you are talking about:001_tt2:
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Jeez, it is like the M25 at rush hour:lol:
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026 carbs are the bane of my life....even after cleaning:001_rolleyes: Worth doing but they seem to suffer from the idle speed being a bit intermittent - reckon it may be from wear in the L screw seat as I found no other fault with these carbs! Ticket to get a saw repaired - do you need a driving licence to get a car repaired and what about home user saws?????
