spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Not sure I can either, I know what the thing does but never had it cause issues like this - always been carb related but hope the issue is fixed for good:thumbup:
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Give Burrel (Martin) another prod, he likes a bit of milling and seemed mildly interested in it when we spoke:thumbup:
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I gather Rich at GTR Tool Repair is the man to see about fixing cheap Chinese saws, he just lurrvvesss their wibbly wobbly parts made of green cheese:lol: Sorry Rich:001_tt2:
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Did one of these once - infuriating design, I think you have to remove the carb nuts under the small carb cover and then split the cases as Owen said - not the crankcases but split the two rear covers and yes, I think there was a hidden nut above the cylinder but don't hold me to it. Just go careful and don't be tempted to use a big screw driver - just make sure all the screws are out before separating the cases. Think the German engineers were taking the piss with this one:blushing:
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Yup, life has taught me that I may know what to do but trying to get others to see a problem in the same way I do and repair it in the same way using the same techniques is another issue altogether. You can take a horse to water but you can't make it wash your car:lol:
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The VW campers are Danbury and manufactured in Brazil, the Indian bike firm is Enfield India and are their version of the Royal Enfield...is the Bullet I think:thumbup:
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I would be careful if you do this, doing the flywheel nut up tends to turn the crank clockwise and knock the ignition timing out - using a piston stop and locking the flywheel in place helps especially if you mark the flywheel and crankcase with the correct flywheel position once the crank is locked. Just don't ask me how I know:lol:
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The lack of pick up sounds like the L screw is a bit lean, is it worse when cold and gets better when warm. The rise in revs at idle may be a number of things, welch plugs can leak and cause this sort of symptom as can a dodgy accelerator pump. If the flat out revs are good and not over revving then it sounds like it is your low speed circuit that is giving issues! Generally the saws I get in like this get a full carb overhaul and I keep going until they work - others run out of patience, skill or can't be bothered:lol: Personally I don't go with the worn throttle valve - all that would do is give an idle you can't bring down using the idle adjustment screw!
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More like his wife found out and had a go with the carving knife:lol:
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Been looking for a decent set of pullers as quite often, in this business, the legs are just too big to fit between the crankcase and the flywheel etc that needs removing so was happy to find these little beauties: -
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The operator likes wearing his wifes knickers:confused1: beats me Rich but the chains on back to front, does this means it puts the chips back in to cut wood:lol:
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It depends if the issue is really low compression or not, if it is then it will be either a faulty decomp valve, worn piston, worn ring, worn cylinder, worn small end or gudgeon pin piston holes or a possible small seize or gummed up rings. Repair is down to diagnosing the route cause and putting it right, if you get stuck then I am happy to look at it for you and do a good long term repair and ensure the saw is working as it should - I am running a pretty hot 357xp so know them inside out. I hope your tech knows his stuff and gets to the bottom of it but the first thing I would do is to get a compression reading and see if it is good or bad and go from there - very difficult to say how bad it is without seeing it but everything is salvageable:thumbup:
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It is probably a Walbro HDA 154 and won't be an issue, the 61 probably has one of the carbs where the L screw dictates the H screw mix and you find adjusting one screw, knocks out the mix on the other - can be a right bitch setting these ones up:thumbdown: Usually found on older generation saws such as the 61 and older Stihl 024/026!
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If it isn't that Rich, it may be a an inlet manifold issue, they can crack around the impulse connector or give issues on the manifold clip but TBH, if you don't need it and are going to send it up here, leave it till then, I take time to get the things sealed 100% and then tune the carb correctly so you don't get these issues. My 346 & 357 both will not pick up when stone cold and need 3-4 pulls on the throttle before they hit high revs - they all do it unless they are set too rich on the L screw. They don't do it once slightly warm!
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I've done it using one of these online photo manipulators. Pretty easy!
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Yup, agree, too lean on the L screw, turn it out 1/8th turn and re-adjust the idle. Huskys bog when stone cold but soon warm and rev fine - yours sounds overly lean to me Rich.
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I think I had better add that is NOT my repair bill:001_rolleyes: Guess it is what Si paid for the kit! Forgot to add - the unit has 155psi and the piston is clean so not a bad unit in all - exhaust port cleaned, filter box cleaned, fuel lines checked, throttle lubricated, exhaust checked and recoil lubricated - all fine now:thumbup:
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Shock Horror - feather stops Shindaiwa Long reach trimmer! Yup is true - but not how you think, the owner said it stopped abruptly in the hot weather - stripped it down a bit today and found a feather wrapped round the needle in the carb throat blocking the thing - also found the airfilter had a big hole in it:thumbdown: New filter on order and after a general service including cleaning the carbon out of the exhaust port and the thing now idles and revs just fine:thumbup:
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The seals will only effect primary compression - that is the compression that happens within the crankcases used for fuel vapor transfer to the top of the cylinder and not secondary compression which is the compression you really feel on the starter cord - the one which we measure through the spark plug hole and is created by the piston travelling between the exhaust port and top dead centre. Even if the seals were completely shot, you would feel no real difference on the starter cord. Sorry to be the bringer of gloom:thumbdown:
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Yeah, top fella
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Well I found it interesting, new kid on the block V the old established Icon of a saw. Be interesting to run the new Husky against a ported MS200T but thats for another day:thumbup: Cheers Mark - nice job
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From memory, you push the spring on to the plastic spigot on the action end, make sure the brake is in the "on" position, you then need to get the screw driver in to the bit where the spring usually sits and then push and prod the spring in to position which generally leaves the spring bent up a bit and finally push it in to place and screw on the cover quickly. You then need to disengage the brake either using a purpose made tool or by using the brake handle by pushing the side cover in to position - removing the sprocket and clutch makes this easier as the cover will push in to normal position this way! Make sure the brake handle and the side cover are fully engaged otherwise the mechanism will slip and damage the brake handle where it engages with the side cover.
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Done one before, getting the spring back in is a bit of a mare, safety glasses and a big screwdriver is the norm!
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Thought you were going to say they had pinched the ported 372XP, sorry to hear that Chris, bad news, at least with that bar, it will stand out from the crowd!
